Was just wondering what all of you thought. I am trying to decide whether or not to buy a rebuilt tranny to go along with the new engine. I don't have the money...but can make it work if necessary. Its about $800 shipped to my door.

The question is...would you trust a tranny with just over 100K miles on a 3x00 build? The tranny ran good while it was in...shifted good and everything.

Im thinking of going with the tranny I have...but I just wanted some input.

 

stock trans with any decent power isnt gonna last long no matter what,wether its brand new or got some miles on it.

put it in and drive it,then buy a 100$ jy core and a 300$ tci master rebuild/race kit and have the core built with that stuff,id also suggest a transgo shiftkit with the tci rebuild.

the tci comes with a shiftkit but its similar to the b&m kit which replaces the springs in the acumulators with rods to make it shift hard,which isnt all to good for the trans

at min if ur worried about ur stocker,buy a 25$ b&m shiftkit and install that without putting the blocker rods in the acumulators.

basically u would be installing the tv boost valve to bring up line presure, and a the valve body mods except the acumulators

 

heres the right rebuild kit prices have actually come down a lil bit since i redid my last one

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...52+4294854624+

 

I have looked into rebuilding my own...but Ive never done anything like that and thats one of those things that I would want to have someone build for me so that its done right the first time.
Plus I want the car to be running the first week of April. I have pretty much everything I need...minus fuel lines and a rebuilt tranny (if I choose to get one).
Oh and the one I want is a full rebuild rated to about 400hp...with the Corvetter servo, shift kit, new converter, and a bunch of other improvements.


I also know someone at my work that can rebuild it...but hes REALLY busy right now and it would take a while.

 

700r4 is deff not the easiest auto trans to rebuild, and u do need a few special tools to do it.but if u take ur time its not that bad. the biggest thing ppl **** up is the seals on the shaft on reasembly.most ppl will catch a seal and tear it as they reasemble it

call up a trans shop and see what they will get to do the rebuild if u supply the parts, it shouldnt be much.atleats when u buy ur own parts u know for sure whats in the trans

the trans ur looking at is it stock clutches and stuff in it?? if so dont bother.u deff want upgraded clutches int he trans

 

The print out I have says it has Raybestos 7 clutches as opposed to the factory 5 clutches.

And the most I'm hoping for is 210hp (what a simulation told me about my setup...so I know it wont be). So its not like I'm putting down any BIG numbers...that's why Im contemplating using my old one.

 

prolly just has the upgraded 3-4 clutch pack, most rebuilds add additional clutches to the 3-4 pack

id contact the guy or shop etc that u can get it from and specifically ask if it has only stock clutches with a upgraded 3-4 pack.

if all the clutches are upgraded 800 is deff a deal though

 

If money is an issue maybe you could just use it and buy another from the junkyard. Then you can save the money and have the spare rebuilt the way you want to. I agree it probably wont last long but you want to take it easy on that engine for a while to break it in anyway. It is more work because you will be having to drop it later but that is just my 2 cents.

 

Ive been told that the way I should break in my engine is... on the first start up alternate RPM speeds between 1500-3000rpms for about 30 mins in park(unless if something breaks...obviously), drain the oil and check for any leaks/problems. This process lets the lifters properly seat to the cam.

Thank for the next 500 miles drive it normal but give it occasional quick bursts followed by quick deceleration...this makes the rings seat properly...after the 500 miles drain the oil again and check for any leaks/problems.

After that, if everything is still intact you are good to go. If anything breaks within those 500miles it would have broken down in the future. Ive been told this by numerous engine builders, manuals, and web sites. If its good enough for high powered V8s....its good enough for my V6.

 

Friends don't let friends buy TCI!

Just kidding, but seriously they're a little behind the times. Some of their stuff isn't bad though. If you're beefing up a 700 the only source you need is PATC. Get one of their 'blue plate' rebuild kits and you'll never burn it up. In my oppinion you're not going to make enough power to need a new trans, unless you plan on beating the crap out of it. Have a flush done (with a bg machine) and install a transgo reprogram kit and you should be happy. If you want to be cheap you can use a B&M shift kit with 'brown' PATC accumulator springs instead of the dowels. Gives you a mild mannered trans cruising about and stiff shifts when you need it.

 

Thats exactly my thoughts too. When the turbo goes in I can justify the rebuild more...I was just thinking of my options.

 

break the engine in like ur gonna drive it, do not baby it.
do the initial startup to check for leaks/break in the cam,change the oil then go out and beat on it.

i have alink to an artical tat explians why this is better,but basically taking it easy on the motor lets cyl walls get smoth before they have a chance to full seat the rings.

when ur beating on it there is more cyl presure to push the rings against the cyl walls to make them seal agaist the bore fully.

without the cyl presure the rings arent pressed against the face of the bore as hard and can not fully seat if the cyl walls are to smooth to wear in the rings
(i.e the rings will smooth out the bores before the rings are fully worn into the bore)

i broke my motor in uder moderate boost, riding the brake to keep boost buit and seated my rings within 5 mins,u can do a leak down test on my motor and i average 5-7% on all 6 cyls.avergae leakdown for a street motor is 15% using traditional long/light breakin periods