Ok, so.... WAIT WAIT WAIT! Hey everyone! I just realized this is my first post!


OK, now I can continue. I just bought this Camaro yesterday. It's pretty much my "First car" (I've had 3 others but they were all lame and I only pop'd the hood when I was buying them to make the guy think I knew what I was doing.)

Before I start, I'd like to say that I'm 18, been out of school for a few years now. I'm in college about half time and don't have a job. (Job market sucks here.) I'm trying to go Marines.

With ALL that out of the way, my question is:

Something is wrong with the car, it's like... compression or something. The guy I bought it from said the guy he bought it from let it sit for a while. It drives and all that but when you hit the gas 25+ it revs and like.... doesn't go. [EDIT: It goes, but slowly.]I have no idea what it could be but I bought myself a Haynes manual.

Pretty much what I'm wondering is is it worth it to try to find out what's wrong, and fix up the v6 or just swap it? I'm on a TIGHT/over time budget. I don't need to be driving the car right now but it would be nice if I was. When I say swap it I'm pretty much open to anything. In the end I'm not going to take it to a track or anything like that. I will however, want to mess with all my friends Hondas.

I have alot of time and pretty much no common sense when it comes to cars. Yea... You read it right.

I will say my second love is driving next to my country, and my friends say I'm good at it. I'd like to keep things under 1,200ish if at all possible. I can do the work myself if theres somewhere that tells me how to do it. I don't have access to a shop and I'd be working on a rocky driveway. I have regular handyman tools.

[Edit: If something similar has been discussed, please let me know. I'm not too good with the search function.]

I feel the urge to edit my post down to nothing. Like I posted something that shouldn't have been posted.

If it was sitting, do a complete tune up.
Spark plugs
Plug wires
clean the throttlebody
change oil
Distributor cap and rotor
Air filter.

Check if there's antifreeze in oil or visa-versa

Is the check engine light on when the car is running?

Yes, there is.

yes there is what which question are you answering?

My bad I only saw 1 question mark, there is a check engine light on.

Put a paperclip in the aldl port from port A to B. The Check Engine light will blink. Count the flashes, long flashes mean ten and quick flashes mean one. If it flashes like "flaaaashhhh flash! flash!" That would be code 12, which will probably come up if the car is off, then if there's any other codes it will keep flashing.

Ahhh ok, thanks.

Killert is giving good advice. Do a full tune-up (there are some great posts on that). That alone may get rid of your SES light.

If you still have an SES light after that, then yes you can jumper the ALDL to get the actual codes. The first code that Killert gave of the 12 says that the computer is functioning. Codes after that will flash with the first number, a gap, then the second. So, you would see a flash of three, a gap then a flash of two for a code "32". This will happen three times if I recall correctly, then the computer will move on to the next code.

Probably should also mention that this done with ignition on but the car not running.

A Haynes or Chilton manual will help to decode and explain. For better help,there is this site.

are you saying the motor revs up but your not going anywhere?

Ok, I got codes 33 and 34. And I go somewhere, just not fast/anything close to normal. This is only based on my pop's experience and me comparing it to other cars(....like my old Nissan with a 1.4 L GA14DE)

I believe those are MAF sensor codes. Try Unplugging it (Or plugging it in if its unplugged) And see how it runs.

The MAF will be on the plastic intake leading to the throttle body. On 58Mark's beautiful 89 RS it is here:

Ok, will do that rigt now. Before I go back outside (I'm in FL so its HOT!) The guy I bought it from gave me an old mass air flow sensor with the car.

(I have to google everything to see what it is. So that picture helped alot. Everyone had to learn one day.)

Unplugged, ran, same thing. Switched in the old one, ran, same thing. Kept the old one in there, unplugged it, ran, same thing. No idea, is this problem the same as the raw gas smell out of the exhaust?

Sounds like both sensors could be broke, Do you know why the previous owner gave you the old sensor?

do your rpms jump up and your not really accelerating that fast?

No idea, the only think he told me was that there were some extra parts and that the oil pump might be bad. (He sounded like he knew about as much as I do... Which isn't much at all.)

@aaronjohn20 yes, that's pretty much what happens it's kinda like a late shift but its not.



Ha, it's so hard to explain how a car drives in words.

definetly do a tune up like suggested b4. Try and unplug the battery for a few minutes to clear your codes, then restart the car and see if your check engine light is still on. Might try a tranny fluid n filter change, but to me, it kinda sounds like the tranny slippn

i used to own an 89RS with the 2.8

Unplugging battery, will see how that goes.


(I don't have the car registered yet because in Florida it's like 125$ Title, 325$ registration. I'm trying to basically see if I can afford the car. Like I don't want to drop money on something to find out it needs a tranny. I'll probably tune it up tho for sure due to no matter what the problem is that adds to sell-ability. I'm just being realistic.)

Adjust the TV cable, it might help drive ability; Heres a good link on how to do it. https://www.thirdgen.org/detent But I suggest while doing part with "E" go inside the car and push the gas pedal to the floor instead of moving the throttle under the hood.

Looking up on it now. I unplugged the battery, the light went off and never came back on. Also, my cousin asked a real simple question I couldn't answer... he asked "Are you sure you're not supposed to putting premium gas in it?" Well... No... I'm not sure... Am I?



Oh no.... It looks like I don't have the necessary tools for this.

Tools:
Two hands and a brain. :P

I broke something. I know I don't have a brain but damn. I hit the pedal to the floor, and the plastic thing that holds the cable to the lever thing shattered. What's this called and can I get it at auto zone?

It shattered? Could you post a picture?

Yea let me find a camera.

OK, I had to go over to my dads house to get a camera, on the way I stopped by o rileys or w/e and the guy was like

"Well... Well how the hell did that happen... Nah I... I don't think we got one of them"

well that sucks. Go to a junk yard and get one but dont break it

Yea.... I followed the directions exactly like they were given... I guess it was just old.

it happens

It happens alot, they weren't the best things GM designed. its better it happened when it did then when you were driving it because it would of trashed the trans. Try not to drive it at all until you get a new one.

yeah, and if u do HAVE to drive it. Then you better shift it manually through the gears

thanks Killert! I'm flattered!

Oh wow. Do you know where I can get another one? I'd rather not make one due to my first thought being a paper clip.

junkyard

True, but would a used one have the same problem?

maybe, just have to find one that looks the best, or go to gm

Anyone know what this thing is called?

You can buy the complete cable from autozone new, its 18.99$ in my area.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=421883_0_0_

Thanks.

Where at in Florida you located w1ngz?

man, i didn't even think about buying a whole new cable and that coming with it. I guess thats Y its always good to have more than 1 opinion.

My car has a bad fuel pump and will do what yours is doing if I have to sit in traffic for a really long time. It will be normal up till 2K then the neddle will just shoot up and I won't go anywhere.
But get the tune up done to eliminate all the easy stuff. Since it sat definitley run seafoam through it. There are MANY threads on how to use seafoam.

On the Firebird, there is a 10A fuse on the RHS of the radiator bracket. Not too sure if there is a similar on the Camaro, but check that as well. I had a blown fuse and that is a heck of a lot cheaper than replacing a MAF!!!!!!

where is that? please post a pic. thanx

Fort Walton Beach, That's Northwest.

I had Same car Same problems. Including the WIGGLE wheel. This is all you have to do:
1-fuel pump 2- FACTORY size fuel filter 3- Oxygen Sensor 4- IdleAir Control Valve
5- MAF sensor. Then do what dude said about the tune up kit (no quadfire supersparker sparkplugs, just regular ones) Then replace ALL vacuum lines and I
ALWAYS use Shell Premium. Keep checking the codes.

Yea, I keep working on it slowly. Running out of funds due to having to support my sisters baby.