RenoLB8

I was reading your list of mods, and there's not much in there I don't plan on doing myself. Specifically, I was wondering about the 1.6 rockers with the higher lift cam. I've heard 1.6ers alone can mess up your idle, make it real rough. I'd imagine with the higher lift cam, it would suck. Any input?

Also, tell me about the nitrous, gauges, what lb injectors, fuel pump, any other details, all of them?!? Thanks ahead.



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Reno
'88 Firebird LB8
"Cerberus"
Now: rusting on a side street til I get out of college

Plans: BUILT 3.4 motor with B&M racing tranny, Hotchkis suspension all around, lowering 1", Accel ignition all around, Splitfire plugs, 88 front bumper, ASCD Ram Air I hood, 91 GTA spoiler, formula wheels, Firehawk tires, restored interior (first on list)

91redbird

Glad i went back and looked at the old messages, sorry it took me so long to get back to ya. I had done some research on this 1.6:1 rocker mystery with the compucam 2030. According to Summit and PAW techs the idle will have no lope at all. The stock pushrods can be used. They highly recommend that the matching springs be used however. PAW sells a cam with a higher lift, for the 3.1L. It will have a "slight" lope and they say that a vacuum can might be needed. I have not installed the rockers yet, i have all the parts on the table in my closet ready for a new engine build but am really playing around with doing a carbed 350 for it instead and selling this stuff as a total engine. As to the NOS, i made a hood duel pod for the 1.5" gauges, (NOS pressure and fuel Pressure) I got a FI nos kit from NOS, and according to them i will not need a better fuel pump or injectors. HOWEVER, if i am gonna actually put this engine together i think i will be going to a higher pound # for the injectors but the stock ones should support 250hp N/A no problem, prolly higher. I guess the engine with the parts i have will do 230 engine hp, i will hit it with 90hp NOS as well, i should be good to go in the high 13's. Right now however i guess i am in the mid 16's maybe high 15's. If you have a 3.1L heres what i would do to build a STRONG bottom end. Its what i have going in the 3.1L i build. Also amd more importantly always remember this rule, parts in the engine are like classical music, everything works for everything else OR.... it doesn't, if you research and don't follow the "fads" you can build a strong engine for less then a bigger engine, in other words it don't cost an arm and leg to build alot of power.

Crank: Get one from a turbo 3.1L in a grand prix. They are hardened from the factory and stout cranks. They run about 500.00 new, i have the PN if you need it.

Rods: Pre 68 chevy rods sized down to fit the crank, Forged 3.1L rods from GM will support upto about 275hp from what i have heard, spend the extra and get forged chevy rods that support more power then u will ever make.

Pistons: Custom made forged with a 350cid wrist pin for the chevy rods... stronger stronger, stronger, then any 3.1L.

This will give ya a tight bottom end able to handle upwards of 400 to 500hp. Theres a guy in my area that runs a 3.1L with a turbo, he ran 14's missing on 3 cylinders and can run into the 12's on this setup easy.

Heads, Port, polish, shave, new valves, i am still looking for tri-sodium (good luck) match yer springs to the cam, valve locks, guides ect ect. I thought about the 1.52's but hell for alil extra i get way more lift, stock is 1.4 to 1.5 depending on who had coffee at the factory that morning, just clay test the clearance or risk a expensive peice of shrapnel. don't get sucked into aluminum heads with "iron head pistons"

Headers------ 3.1 firebird has em and i want to see pics as that is a cool lil project

Intake, port, polish gasket match... I am currently looking to have this one on the desk anodized to match the aluminum, black anodized blue and chrome color sceme..

TB.... I have one from a 2.8L that i have reworked however we can use LT1 TB's if you work the hooking up out. I have seen articals about it... Flow is the question, bigger TB is the answer.

Cam: This is a question for your local expert at the place ya buy the cam. It really depends on what stall you run in the convertor, whats your target compression, whats the weight of the car, wheres the curve in the engine, what do you run for redline, wheres your target cruise rpm, ect ect.... I see alot of people talk about spending 500+ on a convertor without thinking about what they run now OR what they will build... IMHO a convertor is the last thing that you need to worry about AFTER the engine is built, as it will make a good engine run great or a great engine run like $hit.

Gears: see cam selection, it matters BIGTIME. I recommend 3.73's to 4.11's on the street especially since we run 4 speed OD and 5 speeds.

The whole thing is to do some research, do you want a engine to run high rpm at high speed? or do you want 0 to 60? itsa a trade off, can't have the best of both. I drove the major companys crazy for months in my selection after i built countless engines on the puter. The best advice i can give you is to take it slow, ask questions and do not use NOS over 50hp if you don't build your engine in strength and electrical output (spark) hope this long answer explains it





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David
91 Firebird

3.1L MPFI
Dynomax exhaust, cold air, 8mm wires, splitfires, shift kit, B&M Shifter.

On the table waiting to go in:

Ported/polished iron heads, 1.6:1 rockers, Lightly ported/Gasket matched Intake. Ported/Polished TB, Compucam 2030, 5" tach, duel pod w/oil temp, tranny temp gauges. Hood pod w/Fuel pressure, NOS pressure.

Coming Soon:
FastChip, 275 rears, 235 fronts, Ram air hood, suspension mods.