MI_AMOR_2010

My 92 Camaro RS is continually giving me a code 32. I have replaced the EGR valve the o2 sensor and the IAC modual and while I was at this i also replaced plugs wires rotor and cap. The codes have been cleared by removing the fuse to the ECM. Now she gives me the same code of 32. The SES light comes on only after the engine reaches normal operating temperatures. I am lost on what to do and reaching out to all the camaro lovers for help. Any help suggestions and questions would be greatly appreciated. My camaro is the 25th anniversary edition with a 3.1 V6 OHV 12v.

Jason1313

iTrader: (3)

Strange, I am also getting the same code 32 after replacing the IAC and EGR Valve on my 92 RS, hopefully someone can tell us whats going on. Maybe the EGR solenoid could be causing the problem, I don't know.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Problem with the digital EGR is just that... Too many electronics involved. The ECM only knows if the EGR is open if the MAP sensor says so by receiving a slightly modified vacuum signal (EGR causes a slight vacuum leak into the exhaust). The EGR valve on the 3.1 IS the solenoid (well, 3 separate ones for varying flow, actually, but still). I had the same problem with my 93 Grand Prix 3.1 (almost same engine, slightly different ECM but same electronics). I made sure the valve worked by manually applying power to each of the 3 solenoids, but for some reason the ECM just wasn't doing the job.

Check for power on the pink wire first and then make sure that the passages in the transfer tubes are clean. I'll have to look in the 92 FSM later to see what it says...

Jason1313

iTrader: (3)

Is it the same setup on the 5.0 TBI that it is on the 3.1?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

No... The TBI valve is vacuum operated whereas the V6 valve is a set of electrical solenoids...

MI_AMOR_2010

Thank you for all helpful insight you all have given me and i will let you all know when i get my White Princess up and running strong again

MI_AMOR_2010

In addition to what I have already told you about the Camaro, she also lopes and surges. The ses light comes on before the loping and surging. Also, the INF restraint and the ses light flashes very rapidly. I found out a really weird thing today. When I pass my hand, without touching, over the air canister, she dies. Tried this twice and got the same results. I opened up the air canister and all is normal. Not sure why it dies when i pass my hand over it.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I don't know if you've done it yet, but check all of the vacuum lines and connections on and around the engine for degradation. If you touch any line and your fingers end up black, it's because the hoses are deteriorating and not because of grease (although grease could have had a hand in making the lines cruddy). Especially check each end of the hard line between the plenum nipple and the MAP sensor. Finally, you will need to test the signal coming out of the MAP by recording the voltage on the green wire when the engine is idling. If anything comes out of either the MAP vac line or the sensor when the line is removed, you need a new one. Also check for a crack or deterioration in the air box and gasket at the air filter can and between the can and the base plate.

MI_AMOR_2010

OK i am at my wits end with this pretty white lady of mine. MAP sensor has been replaced along with all the vacuum lines and everything as before mentioned in earlier posts. Codes have been cleared and now after all this she still lopes and surges. Before this would happen after hitting normal operating temps...................now the surging and loping is almost immediate about after 5 minutes of running. Code 32 is all that is read from pulling the code. while the engine idles there is a very noticeable ticking on the passengers side of the engine in the area of the ignition coil and the EGR valve solenoids. This sound is very rapid and quick. Not sure if this has to do with anything that i am trying to fix...........I do know that it has not made this particular sound until after i have started having with SES light and my now infamous code 32. I greatly appreciate all the help and insight you all can give me. A HUGE THANKS to all who have sending me suggestions on to what ails my White Princess

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

That ticking may be an exhaust leak... Replace the EGR base gasket and both tube gaskets first before you do anything else. While the EGR valve is off, look into the ports in the bottom and make sure the pintles aren't being held open by carbon or some other crud.

:edit: Next time you go to pull codes, leave the wire in the ALDL and unhook the EGR valve connector. Connect the lead of a test light to either the alternator's battery cable or the negative terminal of the battery and probe the terminals of the EGR connector with the other end of the test light. 3 of the 4 terminals will light (the 4th won't because it will have power on both sides of the light and no ground) if the ECM is controlling the EGR circuit properly. Turn the ignition off, and pull the wire out of the ALDL, and probe the same 3 terminals again with the ignition back on (but no wire in the ALDL). If any of the 3 terminals shows it has ground, there is a short in the circuit that is holding the EGR valve open... You'll need to find it.

MI_AMOR_2010

I connected my volt meter negative lead to the battery negative terminal. Unplugged the egr connector and put the jumper in the aldl port. Turned the key on to run. I got 12v on one terminal, the pink/blk wire and 0v on all other terminals. Turned off the key, disconnected the jumper on the aldl connector. With the negative lead on the volt meter still connected to the battery negative terminal, tested the 4 terminals, with the key on. Same results as above. 12v on the same terminal as before(pink/blk wire), 0v on all other terminals. Key off, then I tested the terminals(red, light blue, brown) that I was getting Ov on with my ohmmeter and they do not test shorted to ground, and there is no ohm reading, infinite ohms. Also, I want to ohm out the red, light blue, brown wire. I found the computer, but don't know where brown F4, red F5, and light blue (can't read the terminal #) are on the computer.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You're not doing it right... When I said to use a test light, you need to use a test light. GM says so. You're checking to make sure the ECM grounds the terminals at the EGR connector, not for voltage...

http://chevythunder.com/fuel%20injec...ecm#1227730%29 Pinout on the 730...

MI_AMOR_2010

ok, I did it with the test light this time. Got a light on the pink/blk, all other wires no light, both times. With aldl jumper in or not in. No light comes on when I put the test light clip lead on the alternators battery cable. Thanks for the pinout. Wires ohm are ok to the computer.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Test light goes between a power source and the 3 ground wires at the EGR connector to make sure the ECM is grounding the solenoids, which is why it's said to connect the test light clip to a battery voltage source and not a ground. Also check the resistances of the 3 solenoids in the EGR valve and then remove the valve and turn it over before you push on each of the pintles to make sure they move. While the valve is off, clean the passages in the transfer pipe to make sure they're not clogged with carbon.