So my replacement timing set was supposed to be here Wednesday. It hasn't arrived. So I called them, and their computer shows the original order shipped, but nothing about my missing crank gear, nor the replacement, and they won't refund my money.
So now I'm out $29 for 2/3 of a timing set.
Crooked thieves!

Update: They're refunding my money.

 

I went to the local auto parts store and spent $33 on a Cloyes timing set.
I decided to use the 3.4 damper, and now the crank pulley lines up just fine with the water pump pulley.
I left the shutter wheel on the back of the damper, it seems to be a non-issue.
I stopped to eat some dinner, but I expect to have all the rockers adjusted tonight. The LIM is back on.

 

No progress today.

 

Nothing much needing my attention this morning, big relief after yesterday, so I got the oilpan on, then got the 3.4 sitting in my Camaro. Then the phone rang. Now I have the motor mount bolts all tight, and the trans 5/6 ths bolted to the block. I also got the replacement dizzy bolted in, and the trans dipstick bolted back in.
The VCs are scraped and now soaking in solvent, I may paint them a medium-dark blue.
And I got the TB cleaned.

 

If you want it to hold up well, and can spare the cash spring for powdercoating, I painted my VCs and intake manifolds and generally it holds up decent except when I'm wrenching on it it comes off a bit too easy.

 

Good tip, thanks, but no chance. This is only a lame 3.4L. As soon as I get the 5.3 running in my '84, I'm gonna transfer it in place of this, then start on a bigger V8 in the '84. So I don't care if this V6 doesn't last longer than a year.
I can't be satisfied with just 175 HP. With a 2.73:1 axle, the 5.3 will get just as good MPG on the highway, and with a rear turbo, it'll do 500 RWHP on pump gas.

 

I didn't paint my VCs after all. They look okay in their original "argent" paint.
So, the rocker nuts are all adjusted, the trans is all connected, the fuel system is all finished, the manifolding is all done, the front accessories are all done, and the cooling system is done.
All that leaves is the exhaust, the starter, and the wiring.
The finish line is in sight!

 

Starter is done. Exhaust is done. Oil and filter are done. Nearly everything is done.
Tomorrow morning I'm going after new spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
I hope and expect it to be running tomorrow.

 

If you're interested I have a practically new MSD cap and rotor I would sell ya cheap, have an MSD coil too, I am switching to 3.4 plenum and DIS, so I don't need them anymore, literally used them all of like 2 weeks or so.(fuel pump died). Oh and some AC delco rapidfires that saw the same usage, let me know, I would probably part with all of it for like $35, which is less than just the coil was. Let me know.

 

Thanks, that's a good price.
I still don't trust the heads or lifters yet, nor my rocker adjustments on a couple of them.
But if it runs right for the next couple of weeks, then I'll be ready for some upgrades.
I would just hate to invest in upgrades, if it's not worthy.
Plus I'm too impatient to wait for shipping. I need my own daily driver, right now, if that's possible.
Here are pics I just made a couple of hours ago:







I guess I no longer need the 3.4 non-dizzy that drives the oil pump, if anyone is wanting one.

 

Man its been a while since I saw what a stock engine bay looks like, so much more stuff, lol.

 

Dammit!
Okay, the temp sensors in each head got lost, but I installed 2 others, for which I have pigtails, but I have not yet spliced them.
Even so, it should still start.
But the fuel pump isn't pumping.
I just need to figure out which relay is the fuel pump, assuming there is one, then hard wire around it to ignition hot, with an inline fuse.
This pump worked when I parked this car.

 

I did some rEsearching and then went out to try what I had just read. I bypassed the oil pressure switch, but that didn't get the pump pumping.
So I undid the 2 screws holding the relay to the bracket, then started probing each wire. 2 were not hot. To my surprise, both big wires were hot.
So I tried jumpering the 2 not-hots. Nothing. Next I tried jumpering what now appears to be the black wire with white stripe, to what now appears to be the big tan wire with white stripe. I heard a pop, then I noticed my jumper was warm. But everything went dead. I guess it popped a fusible link.
so now I have to put the car back up on blocks again, replace the fusible links with real wires, and then get back to this.
Extremely aggravating!

 

fusible links are there for a reason...imo you should replace it with another one, not just regular wire, think what might have happened had that fuse not blown, probably something much more costly would have instead.

 

I'm going to order a half dozen of these:
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/381-809
This way problems are quicker and easier to fix, without having to put the car up on stands.
I think 30 amp should be enough.
If not, another place has them in 50-amp.

 

So my assumption was wrong. I have continuity through all of the fusible links down by the starter, and through all of the fuses in the fuse box under the dash.
But I did get the right front brake hose replaced.
I did find the missing sensors, so I can swap them in, and then I'll have everything re-connected correctly.
I made a proper jumper wire for the oil pressure switch.

 

Sensors are swapped and wired, now back to the fuel supply.

 

THIS IS THE day. I'm going to get the engine started, even if I have to bypass the fuel pump relay and just hard wire it ignition hot, with this inline add-a-fuse.

 

This is flat impossible! Fuel pumps cannot fail for no cause. It ran when I drove the car home. It wasn't worn out then, and it didn't wear out by just sitting with no battery in the car.
If there is a god, I'm angry enough that I want to torture him to death.

 

Oh but they can, lol. Had mine go out on me too, have to realize its quite likely you have the decade and a half+ old factory fuel pump, and even if you can hear it doesn't mean it works per say. =/

 

I'm not so angry now. But I am somewhat angry. The PO has already done a fuel pump, by means of cutting an access panel above the tank. I know this is popular, but I've seen totalled third gens, and I've seen that that area is part of the crush zone. It needs to stay virgin. Now I have to drop the tank for sure, so I can get the butchery fully welded. This just adds expense. I no longer trust this car. At least my '84 is confirmed un-molested and therefore safe. This car now needs a full cage to be truly safe again.
Well, the cage will let me do a hitch.
Anyway, the new pump is here.
And I spent the down-time venting my rage by using a hammer to clearance the rear wheelwells for wide tires. Wide as in 335/35R17 on 11" wheels with 7" backspacing.

 

If done right an access panel can actually strengthen that area, its all about how you do it, a thick enough plate of steel if adequately attached will do the job just fine, I don't really know why so many people are so gun shy of access panels, most new cars have them factory, and people have been doing sheet metal work on cars for decades.

 

Making it double thick would reduce it's ability to absorb energy. It would fail to fold and buckle as intended.

 

Still don't see it as an issue if you get rear ended bad enough for the rear hump to get near the front seats an access panel for the pump won't make a difference whatsoever... Just my opinion that people over-react to the mod big time, I've seen pics of some pretty nasty hack and slash jobs and I can understand criticizing those, but mine for example is quite neatly and straightly cut, measured it out and drew cut lines on it with a straight edge then spent a sizable amount of time cutting it out with a dremel taking my time, I haven't covered it yet(my car is off the road atm) but when I do it will be with a moroso access panel.

 

I guess most of you know that when you buy a pump, you also buy a new in-tank filter. I bought that. But I also bought a new filter that goes under the left rear passenger. The one I removed looks to be the 25-year-old original.
I now have fuel to the engine. I know, because I touched the Schrader valve on the top rear of the fuel rail.
The coil and dizzy are both fully connected, so I have spark.
What I don't have is any idea where the heck I put my timing light.

 

Damn injection! What's that Shania Twain song? Where have all the carburetors gone?
I have spark, I checked both wires 1 and 4.
I even tried swapping all 6 wires around 180 degrees around the dizzy.
I have it showing as 3 degrees before top dead center, which should be close enough to get it fired, but my spark plugs aren't dripping with fuel?!?!? They barely even smell vaguely like gasoline. I checked plugs 1,2 and 6.
I can't afford new injectors!
I'm out of ideas. Can anyone please type anything that may help? Is there some procedure for bleeding air bubbles out of the fuel rail? Shouldn't the return line negate that? Is there something about tapping on the injectors with an extension and a hammer? That seems scary.
PLEASE HELP, ANYONE!

 

Business is slow this morning, so I put the wires back where they were yesterday, then had a helper crank it while I tried spraying gas into the TB. It kinda sorta caught a few times, so I'm sure it's the injectors.

 

Disconnect the front connector on the injector harness. Connect a test light to ground and turn the ignition on. Probe the pink wires in the connector. Test light should light. If not, check wiring under the dash (6 terminal gray connector next to the 14-pin connector is for the fuel injector power) and the INJ1 and 2 fuses. Next, connect the test light to the positive battery terminal or BAT post on the alternator. Probe the blue and green wires in the 4-wire connector and crank the engine. If the test light doesn't flash, the ECM isn't providing ground to the injectors. Check the grounds in the back of the engine and make sure that all of the pins are secure in the ECM connectors (I've had one pull out on me for no reason).

Also, did you put the 7th injector back into the lower manifold and actually hook it up?

 

You are my new best friend! I'll check all of those ASAP! THANK YOU!

 

"Disconnect the front connector on the injector harness."

"Connect a test light to ground and turn the ignition on. Probe the pink wires in the connector. Test light should light."
Well, it didn't light even across the battery, so I switched to an analog multi meter. That showed 12V on the front / left half, but not the half running under the upper intake manifold.
"If not, check wiring under the dash (6 terminal gray connector next to the 14-pin connector is for the fuel injector power) and the INJ1 and 2 fuses."

I checked it anyway. The gray half was female, the black half was male. All 6 wires had 12V while connected, only the black half had 12V when the gray half was disconnected. Both fuses are good.
"Next, connect the test light to the positive battery terminal or BAT post on the alternator. Probe the blue and green wires in the 4-wire connector and crank the engine. If the test light doesn't flash, the ECM isn't providing ground to the injectors."
I got nothing, though this may be because I was using the A.M.M. rather than a test light. Unless this is what I hurt when I mis-jumpered the wires at the fuel pump relay.
"Check the grounds in the back of the engine"
They checked out excellent
"and make sure that all of the pins are secure in the ECM connectors (I've had one pull out on me for no reason)."
The damn 2.8 ran, and I wasn't under the dash until checking the gray 6-wire, a few minutes ago.
"Also, did you put the 7th injector back into the lower manifold and actually hook it up?"
This must be it:

It is all good, but surprisingly, it has no electrical connector on it, nor any provisions for one.

 

You won't get anything with a DMM when cranking the engine with the DMM on the green and blue wires as the ECM grounds the wires too fast. Test light or noid light is the only way to test.
There won't be any power on the injector harness with the front connector disconnected. The rear connector is for the CTS and the cold start switch next to it ONLY.
There should be a connector on the cold start injector somewhere. Everyone else on here who has a CSI has one, and there will be a connector in the main harness that looks like one of the other injector connectors that plugs into it.

Another question: Is the SES light on? The CSI and ignition module are both independent of the ECM. The ignition module runs with the ECM when engine RPM hits 400, and the CSI shuts off when the coolant temp reaches 100*F. See if you can find someone with a scanner and make sure the ECM is seeing reference pulses if the SES light is on (which means the ECM is receiving power).

 

Then this extra connector should be attached to my apparently-damaged CSI?


Now I'm extremely angry all over again!
Having to try to find a replacement, having to buy it, having to remove my UIM, having to buy new gaskets for it...A whole lot of BS!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you extremely much for helping me with this, it's very good of you.

 

Yeah, that would be the CSI connector... Run your hand around the outside of the CSI, it may be rotated out of position and you just can't see the connector with all of the other crap in the way. Only way to get one is used... I don't have either of the 2 I used to have anymore, but maybe Project 3.4 can help you as I think I sold one to him, and I don't think he's using it any more.

:edit: Again, does your SES light come on when you turn the key?

 

What does he need exactly, the CSI or connector, or the line thing? I have the former two, but my fuel line for it is unusable. Let me know what you need bro, and if I have it, I'll sell it to ya dirt cheap. Even before I converted to the 3.4 manifold and fuel rail I wasn't using the CSI. While we're on the topic of obscure FI parts, maverick you know anyone that might have that clamp/bracket doodad for the 3.4 fuel rail, the piece that holds the fuel lines down??

 

We thinks it's the CSI itself that's screwed up... Seems to not have an electrical connection. At least it doesn't look like it does in the pics he's posted.

Can you get a pic of the 3.4 fuel block (yes, the part the fuel lines connect to is called the fuel block)?

 

Yeah, I can get a pic of that, Monday, it's in my scrap pile. I used the 2.8 fuel block, with the 3.4 injectors.
I'll also check the SES light, also on Monday morning.
I have that clamp / bracket thingy from the 3.4 if you want it.
I don't think my bending actually kinked the CSI line, I think it's just the injector itself.

 

I was asking Project 3.4 for a pic of his fuel block. Whomever gets it first, I suppose.

 

Project 3.4 Camaro, PM me a mailing address, and I'll send that bracket / clamp.

 

the 3.4 rail has no fuel block, the lines are press in type, and go directly into the top of the rail, ill snap a pic next time im up there. And pm sent.

 

Ok my browser is being retarded and won't load the page with the picture of one, but its basically the part that has 1 or 2 holes to screw into the fuel rail, which allows it to clamp down on the fuel lines so they don't pull out of the rail, kind of looks like a push rod guide plate, also forgot to mention in the PM, but if possible I'd like the screw/bolt/s for it also.

 

Fuel rail, fuel block, whatever. Names...AARRGGHH!!, as Charlie Brown likes to express it.
Anyway, I recall the piece you mean, and I'll include the bolt(s).
I can ship it at lunchtime Monday.

 

Well, my bracket-for-CSI trade with Project 3.4 Camaro has gone successfully, both of us received our items today. And my new test light arrived today. So tomorrow I'll be checking if my engine computer is providing grounds for the injectors, and then I'll start on replacing the CSI!

 

With my old CSI removed, there was some fuel in it, and the supply line to it. That's comforting.
Installing the replacement, kindly supplied by Project 3.4 Camaro, was difficult to get the bolt started.
But that's as far as I got, because now I can't find the gasket to go between the UIM and the EGR tube.
Looks like yet another trip to the local auto parts stores, dammit.

 

I've spent more time in another car going to parts stores than I have spent driving my camaro...so i sympathize, lol.

 

No luck on the gasket, unless I want to buy 100 of it at a time. Why wasn't one included in my full set from FelPro?
They included one for the EGR-to-exhaust-manifold, but there was no note saying to keep the EGR connected to the UIM.
I've always insisted on FelPro, and never regretted it, until now. But someone there NEEDS to be forced to eat his own feet. Chew AND swallow.
I'll try a few things tomorrow morning.

 

Hmm, I've had problems with the EGR to exhaust manifold gasket being incorrect, don't recall ever not getting the right one for the EGR to intake manifold though.

 

Maybe your set should have been pulled aside at the factory for missing the EGR gasket. It happens. I've always gotten the plenum to EGR gasket in my F/P MS93020 kit. But never the EGR tube to exhaust manifold gasket. If it's brown, it's the manifold gasket. If it's silver with a reducing washer in the middle, it's the plenum gasket.

 

I got the EGR-stack-to-exhaust-manifold gaskets, but I didn't remove the EGR valve from the stack, I just undid the stack from the exhasust manifold. As for the EGR tube, the flexible hot pipe, I undid it from the UIM, but I never undid the hot end. However, I didn't get gaskets for either end.
And my FS had huge notices on the outside of the FelPro box that if I opened it to check the contents, then I couldn't return it.

 

Should be 2-3 EGR gaskets listed with the parts list on the outer packaging... The one gasket may or may not have the P/N stamped into it. If there are other EGR gaskets listed in the parts list, you may be able to get one from FelPro since it's missing.

I don't know if RTV will work on that connection or not. If it will, you will probably need the copper kind (for the high heat resistance).

 

I'm starting by cutting my own cork gasket. I was wondering about coating both sides with copper before installation?