Questions
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Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,572
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From: Longview, Tx
Questions
1. How much would a shop charge me to replace my timing chain?
2. Could someone post or email me a pic of the serpentine belt system (basically a pic of the FRONT of the engine)?
3. Can't forget what goes here....I had more.....
2. Could someone post or email me a pic of the serpentine belt system (basically a pic of the FRONT of the engine)?
3. Can't forget what goes here....I had more.....
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,604
Likes: 1
From: ****SoCal, USA****
You do it yourself and here is how.
I've done this twice.
First.
call 800-831-0884 for the chain & gasket set.
$50-ish, delivered to your door.
FelPro gasket & speed pro chain.
Put engine at TOP DEAD CENTER and ALWAYS try your best to keep it there, during this project. Try.
Remove all belts. Mark them to identify.
Next, drain radiator
Next remove water pump
Next (hardest part, too) remove harmonic balancer. BORROW THE BEST THE BEST balancer remover you can. IF will take some effort, which is why you borrow the best you can. You do not want to strip threads, damage anything, etc.
While you balancer is off, check it, TO MAKE SURE it is still in good shape. Check the rubber seam for real bad spots.
Start removing the timing chain cover.
Then start cleaning.
Your motor is cast iron, start scraping.
The cover of timing & water are aluminum, be careful cleaning gasket surfaces. Don't gouge them.
Install the chain using a THREAD LOCKING AGENT on the threads of the bolts. It ONLY goes on ONE way.
BUT again, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE KEPT THE ENGINE AT TDC. It's easy, LINE UP THE TWO DOTS YOU'LL SEE!
Start reinstalling everything. With the PAN GASKET, you install the timing cover, leave it loose, then start those two bolts from the bottom.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CROSS THREAD.
Read that last sentence again and again.
Go around the timng cover and the oil pan and keep tightening again and again. Secure down the timing cover. Install the water pump (actually, go get a new one @$20 or less, cheap insurance), install balancer, now.
HOW
Lube the shaft of the balancer (film of motor oil), insert thru the gasket on the timing cover, use a BLOCK OF WOOD AND A HAMMER TO START ON THE CRANK.
NOT TO FULLY INSTALL BALANCER INTO POSITION.
Use the bolt and common sense to finish installing the balancer. It will seat itself.
Pretty much you are done.
I had it done, once, took a day.
I did it with a good friend, took couple of hours.
Tools used
most bolts are 13mm, 15mm, crank bolt is 17mm (I believe) but the oil pan bolts are 10mm.
To help, you may have to remove the torque covertor cover, to hold the flywheel in position, to start removing the crank bolt and to keep engine from spinning.
Go slow, observe, use common sense. You can do this.
But cost of parts is close to $75 for myself, delivered by mail order. Rest is all labor (maybe for your area about $50 an hour- 2 1/2 hrs.)
I did get the water pump, last minute at $19 and again, Northern Auto billed me about $50-ish for the best quality stuff (gasket set & chain).
Givve this ashot, unless you are pressed for time. Then try to bargin for the labor, if you supply the parts.
It will make a world of difference in your motor. It will make it much smoother & more responsive. It will feel like a really good tune up, but better!
A Pic?
No, but, I can tell ya, chain looks EXACTLY like any other common small block Chevy set up.
OR go to the wreckng yard and see what you need to do.
Lots of examples to play with there. Sometimes, that's the best way, is to spend time investigating the enemy.
Oh forgot, ALL THE STUFF IN THE WAY, can EASILY be MOVED, NOT REMOVED!!! Remember that detail, saves ya lots of time. Just push the steering pump, alternator aside, etc. If need to, hold back with a coat hanger, etc.
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
[This message has been edited by KED85 (edited June 10, 2001).]
I've done this twice.
First.
call 800-831-0884 for the chain & gasket set.
$50-ish, delivered to your door.
FelPro gasket & speed pro chain.
Put engine at TOP DEAD CENTER and ALWAYS try your best to keep it there, during this project. Try.
Remove all belts. Mark them to identify.
Next, drain radiator
Next remove water pump
Next (hardest part, too) remove harmonic balancer. BORROW THE BEST THE BEST balancer remover you can. IF will take some effort, which is why you borrow the best you can. You do not want to strip threads, damage anything, etc.
While you balancer is off, check it, TO MAKE SURE it is still in good shape. Check the rubber seam for real bad spots.
Start removing the timing chain cover.
Then start cleaning.
Your motor is cast iron, start scraping.
The cover of timing & water are aluminum, be careful cleaning gasket surfaces. Don't gouge them.
Install the chain using a THREAD LOCKING AGENT on the threads of the bolts. It ONLY goes on ONE way.
BUT again, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE KEPT THE ENGINE AT TDC. It's easy, LINE UP THE TWO DOTS YOU'LL SEE!
Start reinstalling everything. With the PAN GASKET, you install the timing cover, leave it loose, then start those two bolts from the bottom.
MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CROSS THREAD.
Read that last sentence again and again.
Go around the timng cover and the oil pan and keep tightening again and again. Secure down the timing cover. Install the water pump (actually, go get a new one @$20 or less, cheap insurance), install balancer, now.
HOW
Lube the shaft of the balancer (film of motor oil), insert thru the gasket on the timing cover, use a BLOCK OF WOOD AND A HAMMER TO START ON THE CRANK.
NOT TO FULLY INSTALL BALANCER INTO POSITION.
Use the bolt and common sense to finish installing the balancer. It will seat itself.
Pretty much you are done.
I had it done, once, took a day.
I did it with a good friend, took couple of hours.
Tools used
most bolts are 13mm, 15mm, crank bolt is 17mm (I believe) but the oil pan bolts are 10mm.
To help, you may have to remove the torque covertor cover, to hold the flywheel in position, to start removing the crank bolt and to keep engine from spinning.
Go slow, observe, use common sense. You can do this.
But cost of parts is close to $75 for myself, delivered by mail order. Rest is all labor (maybe for your area about $50 an hour- 2 1/2 hrs.)
I did get the water pump, last minute at $19 and again, Northern Auto billed me about $50-ish for the best quality stuff (gasket set & chain).
Givve this ashot, unless you are pressed for time. Then try to bargin for the labor, if you supply the parts.
It will make a world of difference in your motor. It will make it much smoother & more responsive. It will feel like a really good tune up, but better!
A Pic?
No, but, I can tell ya, chain looks EXACTLY like any other common small block Chevy set up.
OR go to the wreckng yard and see what you need to do.
Lots of examples to play with there. Sometimes, that's the best way, is to spend time investigating the enemy.
Oh forgot, ALL THE STUFF IN THE WAY, can EASILY be MOVED, NOT REMOVED!!! Remember that detail, saves ya lots of time. Just push the steering pump, alternator aside, etc. If need to, hold back with a coat hanger, etc.
------------------
Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA
[This message has been edited by KED85 (edited June 10, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA
Engine: LH0 3.1L
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KED85:
No, but, I can tell ya, chain looks EXACTLY like any other common small block Chevy set up.
</font>
No, but, I can tell ya, chain looks EXACTLY like any other common small block Chevy set up.
</font>
I made this assumption and it cost me dearly. Before i did my timing chain, i had only seen a SBC setup but not a 60* setup. The 60* motor has the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket further apart that on a SBC. This means that the 60* motor needs a tensioner to go in between the sprockets. Something i didn't know. Mine was broken and this is a SPECIAL ORDER part. Be sure to replace this.
------------------
-Dan
-1990 3.1L RS
-Mods? no
-Slow? yes
[This message has been edited by CaliCamaroRS (edited June 10, 2001).]
Moderator
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,408
Likes: 1
From: Bayville NJ and Newark at NJIT.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CaliCamaroRS:
The 60* motor has the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket further apart that on a SBC.
</font>
The 60* motor has the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket further apart that on a SBC.
</font>
I've been meaning to ask this... what the hell does SBC mean?
------------------
1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.
Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo and Catco converter are on thier way)
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,562
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles, CA
Engine: LH0 3.1L
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Xenodrgn:
I've been meaning to ask this... what the hell does SBC mean?
</font>
I've been meaning to ask this... what the hell does SBC mean?
</font>
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