TomP

Well, looks like the rear seal on my master cylinder has torn. I noticed a few days ago that the level for my front brake's reservoir was down to the absolute minimum line. The brake fluid is leaking out of the m/c right where the m/c goes into the booster. So that means I'm back in master cylinder hell... some of you probably remember my long problem with getting the m/c bled. (Turned out the first "rebuilt" m/c I got was bad, and I wasted a week trying to bleed the thing. I finally took it back, got this current one, and got my brakes back right away.)

So, I ordered (and picked up already) a master cylinder rebuild kit. For the rear disc brakes, '84-'88 (and maybe including the non-metric 82-83 cars?), it was Bendix part # 22232, and cost $30. It actually comes with a new primary piston! I didn't expect that. I just expected a handful of seals. The new seals are already installed on the primary piston, too. They also gave me a new snap ring (to keep the piston assemblies in).

Why didn't I just buy a pre-rebuilt master cylinder? Well, it would have been $5 more. (laughs) No, really... here's my theory: Not many people are replacing their f-body master cylinders. Therefore, when companies rebuild them, they sit in a hot warehouse, waiting to be ordered. The seals are probably breaking down from both the heat, and lack of being lubed by brake fluid. I think that's why my first m/c was a failure- I probably ripped all the seals when I filled it with fluid and tried to bench bleed it. I think that's also why my current rebuild's rear seal ripped!

Removal, rebuild, and installation- no problem. Bleeding- problem. I was also messing with a home-made pressure bleeder at the time. I could make it work directly on the prop valve, but couldn't use it on the master cylinder.

The master cylinder needs to be pressurized. Guys with cars with m/c's that have round caps are in luck- the screw-on cap can hold pressure. Our stock caps can't. Mine bulged outwards in the center, and the bleeder pumped brake fluid everywhere. (Too bad I was in the back of the car, at the calipers, wondering why no fluid was coming out!)

But, I think I've got a solution... I won't adapt a stock master cylinder cap as a bleeder adapter. I'll make my own! I drew up plans a few nights ago, and it seems like this sucker will be able to hold the 20 PSI max that a pressure bleeder's supposed to do. I'll keep you guys posted on the outcome!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

3.1 firebird

Tom, dont feel to bad, about a year ago my wheel cylinders went out, so I had the pleasure of doing rear drum brakes and replacing the cylinders on them.....the bad part s I didnt really know what I was doing , or how to even bleed brakes! But I;m glad I did it because now I know. A few weeks ago I had to replace my brake hoses because of of them collapsed, so I feel your pain man.

I like to think of every repair as a learning experience.

[This message has been edited by 3.1 firebird (edited August 21, 2001).]

TomP

Thanks for the support, 3.1! I think part of the problem is that brakes are so messy... brake fluid always winds up somewhere, and I always manage to put my hair right into it. That's why I'm hoping this pressurized brake bleeder works well- it would reduce mess to a complete minimum!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)