Be aware that although this essentially unshrouds the valve, doing this effects your static compression. May not be that substantial, but nevertheless it will most certainly alter it...

In a naturally aspirated application, overall flow isn't too much of a concern because even the factory setup doesn't flow the same. I had my heads benched before I even touched them and they were off as it was. In terms of boosted applications though, you'll want to run slightly richer than normal until you can get them benched, and equaled...

 

I think ill leave the chambers the way they are for now but im going to smooth out the valve guides more. Then see how much time I have on my hands to do more to the combustion chambers/valve de-shrouding. I still have the other head to start on. But i think... I know what im doing now.

 

wow, lots happend in the last few days lol. lookin good now one thing, if you look at the back side of the guide, it shouldnt be triangular like you have it. you want it to resemble a tear drop from front to back. also, you want that backside to be pointed towards the center of the cylinder to maintain a smooth transition as possible into the cylinder. look at the modified pics, you can see that the runners are pointing towards the center of the cylinder. the pic that Project89 posted, the backside of the guide clocked almost pointing at the wall of the cylinder. in the other pic, i outlined the area that i would change a little.

 

I do see what you mean. Ill get that aimed in the right direction. Ive never done this before so its kindof taking me some time to port these things somewhat right. Ive bet ive spent at least 10 hrs. on just one head.

Thanks for everyones help!! I would have been totally lost with out it!

 

yeah grinding irons is the suck lol. it took me 40 on mine the intake took me 10 and it was only a tbi lol. wish i had some pics, they came out pretty good. i didnt want to put them on the engine and get them all dirty either

 

what u need to finish off those valve guides is a 3/8's diamiter ball carbide and then u can shape them like this



when i do a set of heads i spend about 20-35 hours per head depending on the level of porting

 

Project89 do I run that bit all the way up the vane?? Should both sides of the vane be close to the same size?? Ive noticed that one side is narrower than the other. Well i dont feel bad then working for 10 to 15hrs. so far on this head. Im sure that fixing up the valve guide and then the deshrouding would rack up a good 25 hours all tofgether. Cast iron is such a pain. The intakes went so much faster. And i think i actually took more off them then the heads. Took about 10 hrs on the intakes.

 

use the 3/8's bvall carbirde down the sides of the vane and it will shape it nicely just be carefull not to cut into the runner wall u want the material to come off the guide not the side of the port.

run the ball around the guide and around the top/backside of the guide were it meets the bowl to blend it in really nice.

one side will be wider then the other in order to keep the airflow pointed in the right direction, the real shiney part of the picture is were the majority of the cutting is done with the ball carbide, also when cutting cat iron spray the carbide perodically with wd-40 and u only need slight presure on the cutter let the cutter do the work dont force it

 

Does this look any better? I aimed the left side at the center of the chamber/sparkplug area.

 

getting there.

u really need to take a ball carbide to the ares i highlighted then slowly shape the guide into a nice shape liek the picture i posted otherwise all this work u are doing wont be for much

 

OK ill get back to grinding. I wana do this right and its my first time so thanks again for the help and tips. Ill put another pic up once i get it better.

 

Ok I was out there grinding for about an hour and think it ok. Ill put up a picture later tonight..let me know what ya think. But for now i have to find some more bits because the carbide ones are a little old and driving me crazy, so i was useing a few stone ones i had and they work great but get ate up really quick no matter how much wd40 i put on them.

 

I couldnt find a better round carbide burr so i just used a tree shaped 3/8 one. does this look anybetter???? Also what should I do in the exhaust valve guide area? Heres a pic of that ex. area as it is now. Thanks!

Also the first 2 pics. are different valve bodys.





Heres the exhaust side..

 

without the ball carbide u probably wont get the backside of the guide blended any better. on the ex side u can cut more twards the guide still. opening that area up increases the crossection of the ex port at that location which is the choke point on the ex port

if u dont need tghe motor back together right away u can order a 3/8's ball carbide form a bunch of places online for about 15 bucks and have it within a few days

 

you gotta a link for the 3/8 round carbide??? Is it on ebay??? 15 bucks is a good deal, concidering i bought the ones ive got for about 20 bucks a piece.

On the exhaust side-The blue area i hi-lighted is what your talking about takeing down more. But on the middle cyliner(the one in the pic) there is another port that leads to nowhere(egr). Should i smooth that down as much as possible?? Or will that not even affect the flow. I circled that area in white since you can barly see it.



And im in no rush to put the motor back together. Im trying to do this as best as i can so it will help a little. Im just a newbie at this

 

Another tools question. I've got a couple of Dremels and a bunch of different abrasive/cutting heads. Some are just rough and some have actual cutting blades. Which ones are used for which job and on iron/aluminum?

 

Well I've been using carbide burrs (these have cutting heads), on most of the Iron porting since they last and wont get messed up as long as you wd40 them. They look like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-CARBIDE-...item3f105a5316

Ferrious metal has iron in it so when buying bits keep that in mind. Non-ferrious metal doesnt have iron, such as aluminum. Most carbide burrs or grinding/polishing stones say if there for ferrious or non-ferrious metal, somewhere on the package.

But ive also used the sanding wheels like crazy and the grinding/polishing stones also.

For my intakes the stones and sanding wheels worked great! They lasted but soon as you hit iron, there gonna get chewed up.

 

When i took off the other head today and removed the springs/valves i noticed that one valve on the 1st cylinder was really white! Made me think that this is running supper lean on the cylinder. I Will put a picture up later tonight if i can.

This conserns me!! But mabey someone can explain to me why the valve is so white.
Keep in mind that the injectors are less than a year old but are the stock 15# ones. And i checked them out. Not clogged one bit.

This car is cranking out high and down to 16.6 sec. quarter mile passes. Am I mabey pushing these injectors to the max. I know they cant support much more than 155Hp or so and by those 1/4 mile times this car has to be laying down at least 150hp at the crank if not 155.

Or is this normal?? Or just the crappy 15# injectors. Any advice???

 

well if one cyl seems to be lean then chances are that injector is partially clogged. your prolly gonna need to step up the size anyway

 

Ok well lets say the injector is clogged.... then first.Is there a way to test them with out the car motor intact??? THey visually look fine

Also this car ran a 16.79 the day before i took it apart at the race track. And never have i had it sputter or run any slower than 16.9.

Are these injectors all flowed tested?? Could one be less capible of the flow compared to the next?? They are less than one year old but are OEM ones. Yea i know they sux but i got a deal and the car needed the new ones so bad it didnt even run at the time.

 

theres a good chance that one injector could be clogged, depends on where you got them and how they cleaned them. since you are increasing the VE of the engine its a good idea to invest in some higher flowing injectors. you can get some bosch III's out of a newer car at the boneyard. i have a bunch of bosch III 19#ers from an explorer 5.0. check this out....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oTirEZNRw8

 

I got some oil on the valve from my fingers but here is the white valve. Also about 1 year ago the injectors were crap and caused the car to run like crap and I had to replace them. Could this discoloration be caused from that?

Ive put about 5k miles on it since i fixed that problem.



THIS is an exhaust valve, and also another cylinder had the same color. I just didnt see it before. #2 and #4 cylinders. Both were ex. valve only. Intake valve were fine!

 

Untill I get a round carbide bit the first head is basically done for now. So I started the 2nd one today since I had some free time. I worked on it 3 hrs today and accomplished alot. Its going much faster then the first one.

All three intake ports are gasket matched, all 3 exhaust ports are gasket matched and one intake and one exhaust valve body are bored out a little. Exsp. the intake valve. Exhaust valve falls into the intake valve body easily

By the way that valve that was white was on the exhaust valve.

 

I got a 3/8 round carbide from ebay....17 bucks.. so Ill get to the valve guides better once that comes. Hopefully by the end of the week. But theres alot of crap i can remove in those iron piles in the mean time.

edit... I actually got 2 bits one 3/8 round and another oval one. For the 17 bucks plus 3 for shipping.

 

nice score on the carbvides.
and yes the area u marked in blue including infront of the guide inbetween ur blue marks.
dont worrk about the egr passages in the ex port id say fill them but i highly doubt u have the necasary equipment to do that

 

Yea, project89, i dont think ill be closeing off the erg port. But i have got all the valve bodys bored out to a good size shape since i started the second head. Now im just waiting for the round carbides to get here..so i can fix up those valve guides on the first head and the 2nd also.

Also how much should i take off the short side radius?? I took about the same amount off of all of them but really it wasent too much.

Also i read that taking area off the floor of the exhaust ports can hurt the flow.. is that right??? Right now i just rounded them/gasket matched them, and made the walls a little wider.

Thanks again. You help has helped me a ton!!!!!!

 

if you flatten out the short side radius even a little, it disrupts the flow entering or exiting the cylinder. since the relation of the ports to the cylinder are low, almost perpendicular, the airflow has to enter and turn almost 90 degrees into the cylinder. if you drop the floor or flatten the short side, you increase the angle that the airflow has to enter or exit. airflow doesnt like to make sharp turns. thats why its a little better to raise the top of the port up, this decreases the angle to enter/exit the cylinder. unless you have a flow bench and a few sets of heads to practice on, its a very good idea to leave the floor/shortside alone, or to just smooth it with a sanding cartridge. its a good idea to open the throat directly behind the valve, but the short side should be blended as gradually as possible. think of it as flying a jet, if you pitch the nose up too much giving it too much angle of attack(AOA) the airflow cannot make its way over the camber of the wing, a heavy disruption occurs causing a cloud or "eddies" on the top of the wing close to the fuselage.

 

smooth out the short side radious slowly do not move alot of material, the idea is to make it a nice flowin turn

 

Ok thanks for the tips.

I really only took a little little bit off of the short side radius. And when i took some off the exhaust floor it was when i was gasket matching and only went about 1 inch into the port. Most of the matching was on the side walls. There wasnt much of anything on the floor that needed matched. So anyways ill stay away from those areas.

As you look into the ports, they are not circular, and even as of now (Since ive been porting)one side has a nice smooth curve to it but the other side still doesnt. IS my goal in the walls to make them both have circular curves??? Exsp. in the intake runners, one side is narrower and that is the side that the wall is less curved.. I hope that makes sence.

 

I got the bits today in the mail. The first pic is when i first ran the round bit up the guide. the second is after i tryed to smooth out the guide. Didnt want to do too much more untill i got some comments on if it was better or not.
I added a attachment of the same pic as the second one but i made it alot brighter so you can actually see the right side.



I hope you can see it. Sorry the photo kindof sux.(lighting)

 

thats a lil exsecssive on the back side of the guide but it will be fine

 

Opps i hope i didnt mess it up! So stop where the blue line is on this pic?

 

no u are fine, if u go back and look at my pics thats how it should have looked.but u didnt do any damage. just make all of them the same now

 

ok, honestly i miss judged those pics. But ill just make them the same.

 

OK i was in the barn for about 8 hours ... yea... yesterday on my day off so here is where im at on these heads. else than a little touch up here and there, are these heads a little better??? Obvously i need to get these in a parts washer to get the metal shavings out.

 

Took the harmonic balancer an timing cover off today. Since the delta cam (should be here by this weekend.
As i removed the balancer off i noticed that there is a O ring back there that seems to be a little rought. Do i need to fix this? How much am i in for if i do?

Also the timing chain and gears were replaed abot 20k miles ago. Should i also get new ones?? I think there only like 30 bucks or so for a kit.

At least my cylinder walls look nice. You can still see the nice swirls from the machining when it was made. that was a sigh of relief as ive never removed the heads and really looked in there before.



Heres the balancer and he O ring i was talking about


timing chain ... this whole motor is freaking dirty on the block!!

 

Continuation of my heads. Though Id add it here since its V6 heads.

Deshrouding of the valves.


BEFORE



First over all pic. I've never done deshrouding before so I hope to god i didn't mess it up aready/ I left the valves in as long as i could then carfully cleaned up arround the seats being very very carful not to accidently hit one.


Really didnt work the comb. chamber too much just took the cast down and smoothed out a little. Day off and a hour of free time accomplished this..lol

Ex valve



Intake Valve




Let me know if im tearing them up or if the just need some work still. Thanks

 

looks fine now do the other 5 holes the same way

 

lol. Ok. Just wanted to make sure. I got one more done this afternoon.

Should I clean them up better or is that one ok?

 

knocking off most of the rough cast like u did is fine and u can leave it like that, but the better u polish out the casting the more heat refelction u get from it.

its upto u iff u want to spend more tim polishing them

 

Ahh ok, well I got months with the engine apart so Ill probly polish it up some more over this fall/winter.

Im trying to get those heads as good as I personally can get them.

thankfully I didnt eff them up, thanks for the pics you linked me awhile back, that I basically tried to copy with my heads.

 

Once you get them smoothed out good, get some cratex wheels to go on your dremel. Thatll polish them out real nice!

 

white grinding stones work extreamly well specially the small ones for in the chambers

 

Update guys, i finally got a few hrs to finish up the one head. Its not perfect yet but I at least want to match all the chambers up and deshroud them in case i run out of time this winter with the rest of the car. These heads are getting more and more farther away from those crappy stockers Gm gave up...lol Ill add pics in a bit./

 

Heres some pics.. just taking randon ones. I just like that turbo. I hope it works like i want it to.





I think im missing something here??? LMAO

 

looks good from what i can see

 

I just got the other 2 chambers that head to look like the first one. I still think i could clean them up more but i want to actaully get both heads matched as you know how time can be sometimes.... i dont wana run out of time when i start on engine work and then rush the other head.

I did get the cast basically all smoothed out except a little bit near the valve seat. I was scared to nic it. I dont trust my steady hand..lol

 

Get back to work on those heads, lots more to touch up from what I am seeing...

 

Arround the valve seats? I know im scared to accidently hit one.

 

That, and also on the bottom of the chambers. You want to have a smooth transition during quench, and eliminate as many hot spots as you can...