Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

Now ive been doing some research and i just have come to realize that the 3.1 raidator suppose to run hot cuz it is controlled by the ecm.... now i live in miami and above 220 and close to red is way to close for comfort i dont care much of what they sya that it helps with emmisons... ive read a few solutions... one i hear is "burning" the ecm chip to reprogram it or something like that....2 have a toggle switch that turns on/off the fan with ignition or flip swicth or C) have a fan contoller thermastat controll the fan and i dont know where to go from here...... for any advice

Hyper Tailz

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bump any advice?

Pillsbry10

iTrader: (1)

these gauges arent exactly accurate...however most of these cars with the fan on tend to run at 220 on the gauge or close to it.

the 3.1 does not run hotter than any other thirdgen. if your car is getting hot then there is a problem with it. is the thermostat opening all the way? how close to red is it on your gauge?

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

are you sure the fan is cycling? or however you spell that?? Mine was running hot last spring and it turned out the relay was bad. But i never knew it till a 90 degree day and i was just sitting at a stand still.

Hyper Tailz

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well yea i know the fan works cuz ive tested it by connect A and B with a paperclip and it works.... mayb the gauges are worng cuz they are the origanal i try a new sensor but even so it about a bar or bar and half away from the red and i belive that its burning radiator fluid cuz i have to refill it once a week and i check and no leaks anywhere..I just want it to turn earlier so it cools the car more..... and the thermastate is new as well 180*

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Do a compression test... Sounds like a head gasket failure. Reason the gauge is running hot is because the coolant is being lost.

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

ok will do till then i also read up on a toggle swicth... how do i go doing that

Pillsbry10

iTrader: (1)

i wouldnt go and jerry rig a switch in honestly. just do the test and see if its a headgasket.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Easiest way is to hook it between the green/white wire at the relay and ground...

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

what should i be looking for when i do the test.... what numbers should i be seeing??

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

My 3.1 tested at 160+ PSI with everything the way it's supposed to be... Kept burning the head gasket between cylinders 3 and 5 and dropping to 130 or so PSI compression in each. Yours may be lower.

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

-_- sounds like fun already is it a "easy" fix the gasket.... i assume its take the covers off then the heads install then in reverse and oh yea the intake as well...

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

That's basically it, but there are 2 steps to tightening the head bolts, which you will probably want to replace... 40 foot pounds followed by an additional 90* turn.

Pillsbry10

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the worst part is taking the 100 bolts out of the intake manifold

Hyper Tailz

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ive done the intake before but if thats the worst part then im already rdy :3 just hoping that its my car really running hot and it burninng fluid and i just have to cool it down... i heard that just taking off the thermastate and always let it run free cuz in miami it doesnt really get cold is this a good idea?? i dont think so but i may be worng

Pillsbry10

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problem there is if you ever need heat(yeah i know Miami is awesome and warm lol) its going to take forever for your car to warm up for it. defrost for example

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Nooo... Worst part of the job is getting the nuts on the exhaust pipe to manifold studs broken loose without breaking the studs... Soak them in PB Blaster before you go to loosen those. And don't forget to mark the distributor before you remove it.

Pillsbry10

iTrader: (1)

ha i blocked that pain from my memory...thanks for reminding me

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Broke 3 of the things, replaced them, and then the damn nuts kept coming loose, even with more nuts to act as jam nuts against them. Then the whole stud came out . Wish they would come up with some threadlocker that's good to say 1000* or something...

:edit: Oh, and if you do break one of these studs, you can't go out and buy the bolt with the spring on it. The bolt doesn't fit through the hole in the pipe flange . Been there, tried that . Unless you want to drill it larger, which may not be such a bad idea, if the spring fits...

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

heheh hopefully i dont have that much issue but u expect the worst and hope the best

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

i have never used it the defrost lol actually the "heater" feature has been del on my car when i bought it..... in two years of having it i drove a icebox to work like 3 times

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

15mm deep socket, if you don't already have one, for the stud nuts, and lots of extensions and a u-joint for the passenger's side manifold. Also, leave the rocker nuts alone and allow the pressure of the valve springs to push the head off of the block. Good idea to change the coolant as well, since you will need to drain pretty much all of it or risk a BIG mess. Use the FelPro 8699PT2 gaskets, and not the cheapo graphite ones you find in cheap head sets such as those found on RockAuto...

But check the compression first to make sure of anything before you rip it apart...

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

Have you checked to see if your air dam under teh car is missing? that will cause overheating issues b/c, especially at lower speeds, air is not getting to the radiator.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Missing air dam won't cause engine coolant to just up and disappear .

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

My bad, somehow i missed that part.

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

well ive been procrastinating on the compresion test but i think i have comfrimed it by doing my oil change and now i found kinda white foamy stuff coming out the oil cap and the draining oil felt funny so im already getting parts and getting rdy for the road ahead.....YAY -_-

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

ive been reading that it may not be a head gasket issue that the coolent getting in the oil..... can anyone can comfrim that for me

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Generally, coolant in the oil on a 60* V6 is a sign that the intake manifold to head gaskets are leaking, but it can also be a head gasket failure at one of the coolant passages. You need to take off the manifold anyways to get at the heads, so if you're going to do the head gaskets, you'll be doing the intake gaskets at the same time.

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

sounds like fun fun -_- thank maverick always big help.... ill give a update once that is done... lucky i go on vacation on jan 1 -14 so i can do my head gasket and toggle switch to the radiatior.....thanks everyone eles for the input and will be updating soon

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE TIME... sorry its been a while i just got down and dirty with KARR(my cars name) and well the intake is off and one of the valve covers is gone about to start taking off the head... i saw the covers and it looks like coffee grease splashed everywhere... to add insult to injury my power streering pump is leaking so i know i gotta replace that.... hopefully the heads just slide right off.... when its off is there anything i should look at snice i am down there???

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

so the first half of my project is done the whole top half of my car is now off like a old man thats has lost his hair.... it makes me wanna cry but to the point at hand... i looked at the gasket and it seems to be intact. well at least i assume so im gonna upload the picture and tell me what u think.... plus there was some brown gunk on the gasket and the intake mayb that will help clear things ups....
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a14...y/IMG_4522.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a14...y/IMG_4523.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a14...y/IMG_4524.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a14...y/IMG_4525.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a14...y/IMG_4526.jpg

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Take the knock sensor out by the starter and the drain plug on the driver's side as well and drain the rest of the old junk coolant out of there. Wipe the pistons and the lifter valley clean and also the cylinder walls before you get rust. And check everything for cracks. If you feel ambitious and don't need to drive the car ASAP, you can soak the head assemblies in a Purple Power solution for a couple days and get the grease and carbon off of them so you can check the chambers for cracks as well around the valve seats and plugs (remove the plugs first if you're going to do this, however, and you may want new valve seals).

You will need 2 gallons of coolant and one gallon of water to refill the completely empty system. Some will say a gallon and a half of each, but I generally prefer a 2:1 mix of antifreeze to water for the increased freezing and boiling resistance.

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

ill do that maverick but by the pics u see there are the gasket blown cuz i seem them ok but then again im kinda new to the game so mayb u see something there.... also is there anywhere eles i should look cuz i really dont wanna go throug this again... and sorry if i may be bothersome but what is that brown stuff on the gasket??

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

so its been soaking in a bucket in my back yard and as i am inspecting the head it doesnt seem crack at any form.... the gasket seem good and they are fairly new cuz i did a rebuild bout a year ago....so now i am boggled in what eles it could be. i dont wanna just put the heads back just so i can do this again...

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Well, hopefully, since you've said there aren't any cracks in the heads, that the new gaskets should be just fine. Do the same (soak it in degreaser) for the lower intake (but make sure to take the CTS out of it first) and make sure there aren't any cracks in the coolant passages. Oh, and you may want to take the heads and intake in to a machine shop and have the gasket surfaces checked for warping.

That brown stuff was all of the crud that's been circulating through the cooling system, rust, dirt, other crap. Now that the coolant has been drained from the block, leave the knock sensor and drain plug out and rinse the block with a hose or something to flush as much of the crap out of there as possible.

And yes, you will want to change the oil when you're done, as you won't know how much coolant got into the oil past the piston rings and down through the lifter valley.

Hyper Tailz

iTrader: (1)

man oh man i thought taking the head was hecktic the knock sensor and crain plug on the side dont even wanna budge.....-_- but yea i pretty sure i checked eveything for cracks ands nade although i dunno if this rise for concern that i put a lil oil on top of the piston so it can stay lil wet the right (driver) side the oil stays but the left it has dissapeared O_o i dunno if thats right or not