OK, I got my timing front cover off, I cleaned it...the engine block gasket seems to be stuck pretty good...any suggestions for removal other than a razor blade? Also, do you coat the gasket in oil? or RTV? anything? or just goes on dry?

Can you use a brass wheel on a drill on the engine block and cover?

 

I'd scrape it off, you can get some gasket remover to help soften up the old stuff. Stuff some rags down in the oil pan to keep the old stuff from falling into the pan.
I like to glue the gaskets on w/ weather strip adhesive, I put 'em on dry, but a small smearing of rtv wont hurt anything.

 

rtv or a coat of oil on the gasket will both work.

get some paint thinner or kerosene and put it on a rag and wipe it over the gasket thats stuck thic will soften it up and it will scrape right off

 

Ive got some brake part cleaner, hope that works out...I try tomm and update.

 

What about using Indian head gasket glue on both the front cover, block and waterpump? Would that work good?

 

gasket scraper works well, and the gasket remover spray helps.

 

Hell, you keep asking about glues & stuff, I'd get that baby put together.

 

LOL, well it freezing outside...and Id hate to tear it apart twice for a small leak.

 

Man that timing chain gave me hell...didn't want to properly go on. Finally, got it together, I used Indian shellac on both the front cover and block then put a big bead of RTV on the bottom oil seal. Made sure the cam dot was at 12 o'clock and the crank at 12. Put the new chain on, and gear with tensioner. Then installed waterpump with Indian shellac on the waterpump and front cover. Then put blue RTV on bolts and assembled. I am waiting a day for a good seal. I will go out re-tighten the bolts a bit tomm. I installed my new harmonic balaner as well. Hope to finish tomm and let it cure one more day.

 

SO...I got it together, the car starts...my water pump started leaking ughhhhhhhh...How can I tell if the timing cover is leaking coolant into the timing chain area? The leak is top right of the water pump...son of a...Let it cure for 36 hours...pointless

 

If the water pump is leaking into the timing chain into the engine, you'd see milky coolant.

 

Would the engine oil have a water look / coolant smell?

Since the waterpump is leaking, I dont know about the timing cover gasket...
If coolant was leaking into the timing cover it would just fall into the oil pan right?

Im hoping it is just the waterpump...I have a spare gasket, but now the leak makes me wonder if the timing cover gasket is holding up.

 

Is it the water pump or its gasket?

 

The gasket on the upper right corner of the water pump right above one of the water jackets... it is leaking between the waterpump and front cover gasket.

 

The gasket probably split, sometimes adding stuff to gaskets does that.

 

Well, I removed all the gasket from the waterpump and inspected the area it was leaking...found a built up of dried coolant in that corner, come to find out the casting on the waterpump has a "ditch" which in turn ruined my gasket. Contacted the place I got it from trying to get a replacement shipped ASAP. PITA, seriously.

 

Eh, RTV would take care of that in a jiffy, and cheaper than a gasket, also having many other uses.

Just be lucky it was the water pump that was messed up and not the timing cover. Looked like someone took a shallow bite out of my 2.8's timing cover right next to the top of the coolant passage by the #1 cylinder. Couldn't get that thing sealed to save my life, with ANYTHING .

 

The car is together and running, no leaks with my new water pump woot. I got the A/C out of the car with the new gator-back belt, stainless steel bolt into the cylinder head for the power steering bracket, have about 1" clearance. Flushed the cooling system again for clarity, still have luke warm (if that) heat. Uh, so is there an easy way to check for obstructions on the interior side of the heater core?

 

Not really. Checking the air outlet side of the heater core literally leaves you one step and 4 screws short of having the core out. Pretty much everything but the core is removed...

I still think your best bet would be to actually measure the temps of the hoses and lines leading to and from the core. That way, you could actually check efficiency without removing anything.

 

With what type of instrument?

 

Either an infrared pyrometer or a thermocouple attachment for a more-expensive-than-most-generic-meters multimeter.

Heck, if you wash it really good, you might be able to get away with using one of those digital meat temperature forks .

 

I said I would update with picture well here we go: