My plan was to use the efi hei with a msd 6AL controller should i use the icm attached to the coil packs (from the 93 camaro) or the one on the original distributor to run the ignition system? The coil pack's icm would make more sence as it was already connected to the cam and crank sensor on the 93 camaro or am i on the wrong track? Is the coil pack's system stand alone?

 

I dont know if my last post made it on here but ill try again. My plan was to use the efi hei with a msd 6AL controller should i use the icm attached to the coil packs or the one on the original distributor to run the ignition system. Or is the coil packs stand alone and can be just wired to the sensors and ran?

 

u cannot use the efi distributor with a 6a/6al box without the ecm controlling the distribuor

what happens is without the ecm hooked up the timing will be locked at whatever u set it at , except the stock icm has a built in 10* advance at a certian rpm


u have 2 options really

get the programable msd box and use it with the efi distributor so u can dial in a timing curve , or use it with a locked out vacum advance unit ( both will do the same thing )

or get the msd btm box and use the vacum advance distibutor with the mechanical advance locked to a specific amount of advance it can give


the programable box is a far better choice and costs only 50 bucks or so more then the btm

 

The 3.4 coil pack did not have the cam sensor attached to it, crank sensor only.

You will need to use a vacuum advance dizzy in this application, since you're going carb. Then connect the MSD box as per the instructions.

The DIS ICM will not work with a 6AL, there is a specific MSD for that ICM and coil set-up.

 

Ok which programmable msd box should i get? The msd 6al-2? Or a digital 7? Or something else?

 

u want this box
MSD Digital Programmable 6AL-2

Part No. 6530






http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...ble_6AL-2.aspx






what u will do is use the vacum advance distributor and remove the vacum advance , and then remove the weights and springs form in the distributor and then weld the wieght arms in place so they cant move

u then program the timing curve u want into the msd box with a laptop or computer

 

Why wouldn't he just use an EFI dizzy then. Less work and can use the magnetic trigger directly.

I still can't fathom why you are wanting to make this conversion so hard on yourself.

 

he can use either distributor , i persoanlly would use the efi one , for some reason most guys opt for the the non computer controlled vacum advance one and i dont understand y.

 

Ill use my EFI distributor with it because Ive already bought an MSD cap and rotor for it and since the 6AL-2 PN# 6530 can read the Hall Effect sensors then ill hook it up to them and run it. Thanks guys again wish I would have known more about the sensors on my engine before I bought the 6AL but maybe I can return it vs trying to sell it (I cut one wire)

 

Before I order this is there an ignition coil that you would recommend running with this? The coil I have is most likely the original 91 v6 coil and is probably the only weak link left in the ignition system
The ignition system has
1. MSD Cap and Rotor
2. Taylor 8.2 spiral core wires
3. AC Delco Platinum plugs .044 Gap
4. soon to be 6al-2 controller
5. the original ignition coil

 

i would call or email and ask msd directly on which coil they recomend for a street car with that box

i also hate to be the bearer of bad news but those platnum plugs need to go , thoe plugs should not be used with boost and or nitrous

u should be using a set of ac delco rt42's or equivalent standard plug

 

If you run a CD ignition box go ahead and ditch the stock coil IMO if you can afford the extra 40-50 bucks to say your ignition is as good as you can get it for the most part. Get a blaster one or something like it, MSD will say what they recommend if you ask them.

And sorry...... but do what project89 said and ditch the plat. spark plugs(return them if you can). I run AC Delco R42ts and they work just perfect with the MSD 6 plus CD ignition box, MSD coil, 8.2 Taylor wires and 12psi of boost at a .035 gap.

 

just some more progress....
got new headers (the right ones) for the project and sand blasted them then repainted them with high temp ceramic paint


and I got the MSD 6AL-2 hooked up



now im just re-wiring the electrical system to work with the motor and fuel system change and then ill have to plumb the trans. lines and add oil and tie things up so that hopefully ill have it running soon

 

looking good cant wait to see it run

 

Cant wait to see it running!

 

Are you using 3.4 iron heads or 3500 aluminum head ?
If so where did you find the carb intake to work with the aluminim heads.

 

he is using the iron heads with the edelbrock intake

 

some more progress....
It does run! sounds very good! but i still need to machine some more on my water neck adapter plate (the edlebrock manifoild was 50* off from where it should have been???)

I also machined the supercharger holding plate however I was a few degrees off on the angle it needed to be (good thing I have a spare plate I made)


As you can see the blower and PWS pump are in the same spot.



The plate looks good in there though.



I'm hopping that with a Cowl induction or a ram air hood I will be able to hide everything under the hood so it looks close to stock but I think the supercharger is going to end up out of the hood unless I do away with the PWS....



On another note, What is the best way to post a video on here?

 

On a side note, as far as why the intake manifold doesn't work with the 3500 heads. What is different about them that they don't work? I've been thinking my next project on this thing once I get it running is going to be weight reduction and I'd love to get rid of the heavy Iron heads in favor of the lightweight aluminum heads (and for the better flow). Is it possible that I could mount my intake manifold into a mill and re surface the mating ends that connect to the heads to make room for an adapter like plate to go between the intake manifold and the Aluminum heads?

Never mind on that ^^^ I just re-evaluated it and I doubt an adapter plate between the two wouldn't be a good Idea as the bolts that mount the intake manifold on are super close to the edges already that It would be a major PTIA.

 

Probably easier to custom make a carb plenum but you still won't have clearance for a distributor. You could however run DIS with an ECM. Some accessory brackets will probably need drilling for some slight changes in bolt hole locations. Also swap in 3400 pistons so you'll have a normal compression ratio.

 

hmn, Ill keep it in mind then for when I take the motor apart for forged dished pistons and a forged crank from a 3500 (that one is forged right?) Ill turn down to work in the 3.4 and possibly some SBC I beam rods or something strong and light. hopefully the college professor will allow me to play with the CNC equipment like my bosses at work

 

For videos I use youtube and then link it onto here.

 

Do I have to lock out the efi dizzy? If so how? The engine starts great but it will not increase rpms at all when the throttle moves. The air blades are moving and the fuel level in the bowls is right and I tried adding excess fuel in case it was just running way too lean but that is not the case, so im thinking its a timing issue. I tore the whole ignition system down and made sure everything was in the right spot and it all is so I dont know what I could be missing besides a lock out???

 

the efi distributor has nothing to lock out, u may have to set the phasing on the pickup inside along with the rotor

does the motor stumble or pop when u open the throttle

 

Thats what it does. Im going to look into the msd controller and make sure its set right.

 

I think I may have found a part of the problem if not the whole issue the ignition box thinks that at idle the motor is running at 9,617 rpms so tomorrow ill check the wiring of the crank sensor and make sure its right. Im going to keep digging for a schematic but which wire color is the trigger wire from the sensor. And is there an easy way to test the sensor?

 

yup that will do it , ur using a crank sensor? or ur usig the reluctor and pickup in the distributor

 

I think I may have found a part of the problem if not the whole issue the ignition box thinks that at idle the motor is running at 9,617 rpms so tomorrow ill check the wiring of the crank sensor and make sure its right. Im going to keep digging for a schematic but which wire color is the trigger wire from the sensor. And is there an easy way to test the sensor?

 

Im using what im pretty sure is the crankshaft position sensor in the front of the engine below the water pump on the driver side

*there is three wires coming out of it, a red a green and a black wire I wired the black to a chassis ground the red to the ignition switch (12v) and the green to the white/blue hall trigger of the msd

 

Im using the 24X sensor wired up with 12V from the ignition system

 

I would try using the 7x sensor as that is what is normally used to control timing with the 3x00/3.4 coil pack. The 24x signal with the 1x cam signal is used for SFI and to provide greater resolution for timing control.

 

Got the ignition issue fixed, now I just need to get the timing curve set exactly where It needs to be. It is close but not quite there.
The project has been put on hold till next spring as I have moved 3 hours from the car

for future reference I used the points trigger off of the efi Dizzy