My 3.1 v6 Tuned port injection has been having a problem. Heres a full example of use. In the morning ( hasnt ran in about 8-12 hours ). I will drive to work, the car starts fine, runs fine and gets me to work, which takes me 15 minutes. When i leave work to go to school. starts fine, runs fine. Today I waited outside school, waitin for my next class, i was listening to my stereo, so my car was idling and runnin for about 20 minutes, my temp up to about 130. 80 minutes later it was lunch, i went start my car, Nope, it will turn over, run for about a quater of a second and instanltly die, OR it will try to keep itself runnin and chugs from 200rpm to 1000rpm violently,then eventually dies 5 seconds later. If i were to wait 5 hours the car will run fine. My mechanic (Yes, i dont do mechanic work myself, I do autobody, and thats it. I hate mechanical work.) changed the fuel pump, same problem, no errors after a scan. Is there anything else that could be problem?

Extra info that might help:
-If I'm on the highway, and I floor it, and the car reaches about 4k rpm it instantly dies.
-fuel tank makes LOUD hissin noise when opening (not sure if this is fine or not)
-I have a large amp pulling enough power to unstable my idle
-ask ANY question that might help

 

You describe exactly the issue I had with a leaking fuel pressure regulator. The rubber diaphragm inside it gets brittle and cracks and gas gets into the vacuum side and gets sucked into the intake. When this happens on a warm start the idle can't compensate quickly enough and the car dies. I go by for a while by pressing the gas pedal a bit to let it gulp some air. Once it got running it seemed fine. Cold start was OK because any gas in the top of the regulator had evaporated. About $50 for the diaphragm and all is well once more. Pull the vacuum line off the regulator and smell for gas in the line.

 

Thanks, I will look into this and post if it has worked or not.

 

Check your Ignition Control Module first. Easy to get to, right under the distributor cap. Auto parts stores can test it, but they often pass the bench test when bad because they tend to only fail when they get hot. I would recommend just buying it, and if you have no change, clean it up and take it back. Get it tested first anyways, because even though bad ones often pass, if it tests bad then you don't have the hassle of figuring out if it fixed it or not.

Usually causes erratic idle, hard/no start situations, and death upon giving it gas. Have had it happen to me twice (don't buy the cheapest one, lol) with the same symptoms you describe.

Good Luck