Well i just left the bov as is but just blew a head gasket after trapping 96 mph in the 1/8 mile. Damn depressing. I'll have to see how much damage I caused tommorow. For now oil is out and trans fluid has went though the engine and turbo to hopefully wash out the water.

Sorry to hear that Mark. It did take alot of beating before it blew! What was your boost pressure when it went?

14psi.

Bummer man, I really wish you had better luck.

damn man it was on a pass , what did afrs look like , leave ur wideband on a few mins to burn off any antifreeze that went therew the ex system , antfreeze will ruin the o2 sensor

do u have a data log

hopefully u didnt torch the cyl head

how did it 60'

60 foot was about 1.8 it ran great till about 900 ft. Then she blew. Oil was trashed and anti freeze came outta the valve covers. I'll update tommorow when I open it up and see the damage.

I ran a 11.94 at 100 mph costing on that pass..lmao

I'll upload pics tommorow. The head gasket was pitiful. No major damage. Just a pita to clean out the mess it left so far.

Heres the story.

So durring last week i ran accross a friend that had a new in box wet NOS sniper kit. Figuring it was only a 35hp shot i needed to try i jumped on it. So after installing it i got to play arround with it a bit and it worked well. On though a WOT switch and also I had a hobbs switch turning off the N20 at about 8psi. Of course a master arm switch also in the car.

So on race day i was excited to easily take down my 60 foot times. Even with such a small shot it was amazing how easy it was to knock off 4 tenths on my 60 foot time. He lies the problem...the n20 silenoid stuck wide open on the whole pass till the head gasket let loose.

I felt a slight bog at about 900 foot out and then a loud pop bang at about 1000 foot. Which later i found out was one gasket letting go then another letting go. I of course let off and costed to a stop to find out that the nitrous was still flowing into the charge piping. I had to literly shut off the nitrous bottle to stop the n20.

I have strainers/screens in the intake side of the silenoids. I have yet to take that n20 silenoid apart to see why its stuck open. I should have ran dual silenoids but live and learn. I messed up there for sure.

Good thing about the run is the AFRs were arround 11.6-12.0 the whole way till she blew. The spark plugs are fine and so are the pistons. It has been a mess cleaning up the mess of oil and water in the engine. But I believe i got it pretty well cleaned out.

So here are some carnage pics. And the time slip also. Let me remind everone that I was only running about 13psi and ripped out 1 degree of timing only on the areas that i planed on using the n20 compared to prior tunes. I cant imagin what the cylinder pressure was running that n20 all the way down the track like i did. It was pretty impressive im sure.
















Finally the time slip. From friends and my insite.....she let loose at the 900 foot zone. As I passed that 11.6 car that i raced. Then i blew it and he passed me 95.7Mph is some big speed ibn the 1/8 mile compared to my cars best before. But then again even though i was running less boost then last year..i had a 35 hp shot of n20 going that i didnt want...

I also want to add that when i began to take apart the silenoid looking for something in there on the seat.... it was a PITA to get it apart. Almost like someone tighted the crap out of it when they put it together... almost over tightened i would think. I needed a mini breaker bar on the solenoid dissemble wrench...lol it was tight as can be.

sucks about the head gasket but that is awsome lol

the real question is

is there any video

edit i take it the fuel noid shut off and only the nitrous was on ? u should be able to run the nitrous all the way down the track if its tuned right

i wish man. i really do. She was taping then ran off to come get me. They were pretty freaked out. That bang when the outter gasket went was loud. The pressure in there was amazing im sure. So needless to say no video this time. Give me a week or 2 to get it back going, get another solenoid and ill be back out there to run 11.5 all day long... fingers crossed.

time for head studs but keep using the cheap felpro gaskets

Yea it is kinda neat how it poke holes in it. [ and better then a hole in a piston, or valve damage, only blown 1 headgasket in my life on high speed run, on kaw 500 triple, middle piston had a nice hole but it wasn't deep. ran it as is after just fine ]

when I talk to Holley about their V8 FI system and if its turbo ready, they suggest giggle gas for cooling and umph, over water or....

12.0:1 is a little lean with boost AND nitrous. People will tell you that you can get away with that as long as you have no knock indicated, but they don't seem to realize how hot the cylinder temps are. Richen it up a bit, keep it safe and not on the edge, turn up the boost if you want to go faster.

Going for broke. Need a smaller hotside...

When I saw those 11.5-12.0afrs I had no idea the nitrous was still on....

fast can u post up pics of the current fuel and advance tables thanks

i also need ot know what nitrous and fuel jet sizes ur running and what presure on the fuel side of the nitrous

Ok will do. I also have 2 new nitrous solenoids coming. Next time I run it its with dual solenoids ran in series one after another. A few nitrous friends recommended that for safety.




The timing table is actually -1* of timing on 99-162kpa as of last weekend. That was just a shot from the other week.

N20 jet is .026 and fuel is .018 iirc 44psi fuel pressure 1:1 rising ratio.

having some pro nitrous guys look over it to make sure ur tune up is safe , i have a feeling they r going to recomend steping up to a 50 shot once ur sure the system shuts down when it supposed to

How were your 1/8th miles times before using the nitrous?

That 1/8th mile time is a high 11, which I believe you've already gone before the nitrous went on, no?

Maybe you pick up more in the top end than what common multipliers will indicate, I know this is generally true of my time slips.

My 1/8 mile before was a best of 7.45 on the 11.70 pass. I ran some 11.90 before on 7.70s also. But then again my 60 foot on the 7.45 1/8 mile was 1.64. My 7.6 i ran the other day was a 1.85 60 foot time. Alot better though then the 2.25 I ran in the sixty before the n20.

Honestly I think the n20 when working right will be a great addition and help me have constant 60 foot times. But I need to work on the set up and dial it in. Time will tel. I'm planning on tossing it all together on saturday, do a compresson test, then hopefully fire it up.

Compressions good. It fired right up

the gasket letting lose probably saved things ehy? always wondered why they never made the parts mechnical interlocking. Instead of two flat suraface, ones goes into the other not allowing any escaping air or fluids.


every see a indy turbo V6, look at the size of that plenium and the size of that pop off valve? pre BOV design?

-https://www.facebook.com/296917023742026/photos/a.298058516961210.53613.296917023742026/678607342239657/?type=1

Impressive picture! Nice looking turbobrick there.



I got the dual solenoids wired up and tested them. They both work open and close like they should with nitrous.

I still need to clean up the engine bay again after the reassembly but it ran fine.




So if all goes as planned we will try this again at the track on sunday.

Not sure if you guys can watch this. The first vid has a bad exhaust leak.... but at 2500 rpm it starts to spool up.


then the 2nd is just after the start up

I wonder, do you have any easy to reach kill switches yet to stop the spark?

on my old drag bike I had both the handle bar wrist pull [ pull hand back from bars kills it] and a slap button to kill the engine when things went wrong. [ only had to use it once, slide pin in the carb make it hang wide open ]

I could make something like that possible. thats a good idea.

Here is a light pull today. its still got it! 13psi

Glad to see it is back together! I might be out at milan this weekend.

Only one I could find that didn't look like out of a cartoon


NOS Diamond H Push Button Switch (Big Red Button) Seen in many Machine control panels as an emergency shut down Switch.
http://bit.ly/1G3l7aD

something is wrong i heard the motor pop 3 times on that lil pull , find out what it is or ull be doing headgaskets or worse again

I think I hear what you're hearing... but I'm not sure that's the engine, could be the phone/camera position picking up some other noise, movement of the camera, etc.

i listened to it a few times, i have really hi end studio monitors i use for my pc speakers for gaming , it deffinatly sounds like it was popping out the ex system
it could have been the camera when it moved or picking up something else but it sounds alot like a miss or the ex system is loading up with fuel

I will have to look everything over and also listen to the vid at home.

One thing you may have heard was me banging the shifter as I for some reason thought I was in 2nd gear at the end of the pull So I was banging it a few times. I started in 2nd on the vid but idk why I though I started in 1st.

I listened to the vid. If the sound you hear is between 15 and 16 seconds on the vid... its just the shifter and me being a moron thinking i had another gear..

Ok well i looked everything over and drive it for a good 15 minuets out arround in the sticks then floored it for a 2nd 3rd gear pull. I think its fine. I didnt hear anything and the datalog looks good. This is now at 15psi though like i was running before. Afrs 11.4-11.7 which is fine with me and the intake temp went from 84 before the pull to 98 at the end of the pull. Which is normal for my IC... This is only the second wot shot ive gave it since the engine got put back together and if it nice sunday ill be back racing on that tune again.

Hopefully all goes well.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vkb6DYdVg5M

sounds good now i didnt hear anything but the shifter on the shift in that ideo

ive been meaning to add that u should have a purge valve , point the purge outlet at the intercooler, will knock some heat out of it at the line

Lost in 2nd round yesterday but car was so dam consistant. I'll link up a video of the beast after work. I ran wastegate only spring so about 12.5 13 psi max and took timing out too. I was a little gun shy from the other week. Ran constant 12.70s at 111 mph or so.

Here is the video of a pass vs my friend in his 2014 mustang. Its got a few mods but runs high 12.90s usually. It sure is nice beating on a V8 anyday.

Ill probly work on the tune and turn the boost back up for next weekend and hopefully be back arround 12 flat again.

........ wrong thread

Damm rain keeps canceling the races... well if you can watch this vid and it works..enjoy. Im praying to the rain gods that it stays dry this week. Im going to racing withdrawls.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASuA...ref_map=%5B%5D

I was dialing in the afrs with the 35hp shot of n20 yesterday and it's good. Solid 11.5 from 0 to 8psi when it shuts off except when I first floor the car. It dips down to the mid 10s. Now it's been while bit I'm not sure what I need to change on the Pe mode in $59 to lean it out a bit. Thanks for any tips or areas to change.

AE, need to reduce the acceleration enrichment fuel. There is both delta MAP and delta TPS AE in the $58 code.

Along with a CTS modifier and a RPM modifier.

Since AE is PW based, larger injectors automatically increase the volume of AE.

RBob.

Thank you Rbob. I will slightly change the AE and see of I can get it to stop going rich for that moment when I go wot.

Also AE is just fueling added on top of the normal ve table. This may be a dumb question but is there a area where you can see how long the AE is active? Or is it always active on wot and vary due to tps and rpm? I ask because my spot where it's pig rich on wot is only about .5 seconds long then goes back to where I want it.

AE is just for a short period of time as the throttle is opened. I don't recall the injector size you are running, but can reduce the AE PW by the difference between those and the stock injectors (in percentage).

I usually rough in the dTPS & dMAP PW tables this way.

RBob.

Ah ok. Im running 48lbs injectors.

I was going to take some of this out but didnt want to mess with something that wasent going to help me. Its been along time since i have messed with any of the AE and PE stuff.

I think the XDF labels are wrong. Those values are way too high, as they are shown in milli-seconds. The real values are likely in micro-seconds (uSEC). But then they look to be too low.

Can find out easy enough. Add 7 to the first row of the dTPS table (the 30.516 value). Save it then reopen the table. Did it revert back to 30.516, or did it change to about 37.516?

If it reverted back the values are actually uSEC.

Can you post the RPM & CTS AE tables. That will give a better idea of the total AE. Also, which version of the $59 are you using?

Note that leaning out the AE at the throttle stomp will clean up the engine and spooling at this time.

RBob.

The AE values will only change in multiples of 15.?? uS. I haven't found a good reason for this and the explaination given on the $59 forums didn't make it any clearer.