nice, if im not mistaken u can add a transbrake to that cheaply

 

Yea a brake wouldn't cost too much. For now I'm sticking with the foot brake.

I'm just waiting on the freakshow converter and the vss mechanical to digital converter. Then I will have all the parts. Pretty excited to see how much this fresh trans and converter does in the old slow camaro.

 

what kind of rebuild, stock or?

gearing? they add the extra clutch plate?

use the racing ATF if you want to feel weightless ever time it shifts....

 

Rebuild with a TCI Ultimate Master Racing Overhaul Kit and the TCI reverse manual valve body. Thats all I know about the guts in it. The gearing is the stock gears IIRC. It was in a low 10 second bracket car though so im not sure off hand. Its got a freeze plug for the speedo cable block off..lol i guess when your that fast and its a trailor queen who needs one.

Racing ATF? Royal purple and stuff like that?

 

dana told ,me dexron type fluid only , no trickshift or type f type fluid at all in the th350

 

RP racing full syn ATF has no friction mods, it bites hard when ya shift. I have ran that for easy 5 years, only just a few months ago I did a 4 quart change and put in reg full syn ATF and you can tell a difference. Both good and bad, if It teach GF son to drive in it, it can't kick like a muel at part throtle shifts

Think of it as kinda floating the clutch for ya some or not.

I did get a deal through summit for a 5 gal jug to cut "cost"

 

ok thats what i ran in the 700r. Not sure if it was the proper fluid for that. But I have quite a few new qts here at the house for it. Ill have to look up the fill capacity of the TH350 i would assume its less then the 700r

IIRC its arround 12 qts for a 700R. I do have a larger capasity pan on this TH350. So itll probly be arround the same I guess.

 

My tranny builder was fine with me using it.

just be aware of clutch wear with racing ATF, but you are racing so your not gonna expect 100K miles out of it.

my self I asked for a tranny that packed a punch, lower 1st, extra clutch, firm shift kit, the racing ATF just makes it hit even harder.

 

Got the freakshow converter today! 3500rpm stall

Getting excited. Im planning on tearing out the trans this sunday finally.

 

Old trans out. Th350 ready for the adapter plate. flex plate ready also. Just need to get the block ready and then make up my trans and Tq bar mount.

I'll post pics later to show ya how it's going.

 

sweet , my th350 is still in a million pieces , end of this month ill get it together , my converter wont be here till wensday anyway , just have to resist trying the transbrake on the stock rear , though on street tires it wont be anything but huge smoke show

my converter is 3,800-4k stall so its going to leave hard, i gota get that dana 60 in the car before i really get to play with it though

 

Here are some pics. I ground down the areas for the bolts from the plate to the block, also slotted the flywheel for the 3/8ths bolts for the TC. I got my gears and such for the speedo housing. Got it all installed. Tossed on the Vss 4k ppm to make sure it fits....and it does like a glove.

I need to still do a bit more but I made alot of progress in 4 hrs including tearing out that ole 700r4.

I still need to get some grade 8 bolts for the plate to the new trans and from the flexplate to the converter, but else then that its just a bit of fabrication and i can toss it in.

 

not gonna save ya anything, but just FYI the grade on bolts is the thread clamping strength. On the TC to Flex plate your dealing with shear strength. Grade 5 is beyond stong nough, you'll never shear them off.

 

Ok I didn't know that. I just wanted to make sure they were plenty Strong.. I've got tons of grade 5 stuff At the house. Thanks man.

 

Well i almost had the trans up and in the car today but need new bolts for the adapter plate to the block. I cut down the stockers and was going to use them but didnt notice before that the threads dont go up to the head. So i cant fasten them all the way down. Though of grinding more outta the th350 housing but it would be alot to make up for a large thick washer.


So im going to go toss on this girdle for the 10 bolt tonight instead.


Edit girdle is on

 

Update the trans is in. Went well.

Those top two bolts on the housing will be fun to tighten down. They are alot more tighter then the V6!! I tacked the bolts heads on those to the adapter plate so the trans easily slid right on there. I tossed it in myself on my gravel garage floor...fun!


I still have to tighten up those top bolts, tighten down the TC, get the trq bar mount on(i got a used b&m adapter for 45 bucks shipped) and then just little things. But its too cold out to do that stuff right now. Im just happy the trans fit right up in there, the flex plate went on with the TC pilot adapter fine, and the trans mount adapter to shift it forward 1 5/8th of a inch worked. Although there was some extra adjustment i could have gotten out of the single bolt on the bottom of the trans mount to the x over.

 

might wanna work in doing the SFC at some time before to much is on under there.

 

Yea I was planning on making some up here as soon as i get the trans bolted up nicely and making sure that the tq arm fits on there properly.

 

I coulnd't member which kind you were gonna do, mine would of been easier to do with out the tranny in there.

Arent ya gonna do bolt in? [ or does that not bump ya up a class in drag? ]

 

I was going to make my own out of some square stock. Adding them wont knock me up in a class. Time will though. That car may be on the verge of not being in the sportsman class at milan. And its on that iffy area where it needs a roll bar or cage.. 11.49 in the 1/4 mile needs a cage.


Here is a video i tossed together a few weeks back. Its got project89, mars, me, and pillsburys car in it. It probly wont work on a phone but works on PCs fine. Enjoy! And crank up the volume!

 

Well 5 months after I winterized the camaro... it fired right up. Now with a TH350 behind it. Ran it for a bit to make sure the fluids were all ok. Im running a new rear end girdle, a new 2 row alum radiator, and dual fan set up also.

I did notice a little bit of vibrations with the new poly mounts for the trans. Its not violent or terrible but it is noticable and only at idle. Rev it up and its almost non existant. Im hoping its that (the new poly mounts) and not the flexplate or TC since those have been modded just slightly.

I still have to mess with the shifter cable and get it dialed in right before I can drive it, along with a few other little things.

But bracket racing starts may 3rd. So i need to get this car up and ready to tune within the next month. Im getting the itch!

 

Not really that bad of a problem how strict are the rules on roll bar? Member the threads with the 3rd gen cop car roll bar??? It was far less intrusive on the back seat.

 

I'm not sure How strict they are. That's something I may need to ask about. It will sux if the car is actually capable of going under 11.50 and I'm can't do it because of the lack of a roll bar.

 

By who's rules is it 11.49 for a cage? NHRA (IHRA is similar) was 9.99 for a cage, 11.99 (or maybe 11.49 now) for a role bar. Convertable would need a roll bar at 13.99 and roll cage at 11.99 or 11.49. Maybe you're looking at the convertable specs?

 

I though I wrote roll bar above... but yes 11.49 is for a hard top roll bar. Which if I was to go though the trouble...I might as well install a cage. Iirc the roll cage pipe size is smaller too. 1 5/8th compared to 1 3/4 for a roll bar, I think the wall thickness is something like .118 or so for a minimum.

 

If you only need the roll bar, could you put in a cage but have removeable or swing out section?

Or do ya not care about the back seat and climbing over a side bar?

was my only hold back point, id like to have one just or safety, but don't want to lose space, and its already like climbing in and out of bed stock

cop bar
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86774

 

Yes you can. Many of my friends that run trailer queens all have the swing out doors built into the cage.

Im still not sure where i want to go with the car. If the car actually is faster then last year i just may hold it back to the 11.80-12.0 area for bracket racing... Id just hate to tear up this car and cage it, but at the same time I would feel alot safer with a cage or bar in the thing.

 

put the cage in it if u do it at all , the 10pt cage is a bit mor emoney but the work u save doing it the first time is wellworth it versus converting a bar to a cage down the road
also save ur money and do a chromoly cage to save wieght just be forwarned they wont pas a chromoly cage thats been mig welded.

u can run swingouts in the door bars but they become illegal after 10.0 and then u have to cut out the door bars and put 1 piece door bars back in


also frame connectors before cage or bar

 

Sure would make it a more solid one piece car, sure we all have seen enough pics of a 3rd gen that side swiped something and nearly ripped in half at moderate speed. race tracks have a funny way about them at times and the rear end goin all puppy dog tail excited.

 

Dave I'm a UA local 50 union pipefitter/welder apprentice. So im in school right now and I'm decent at tig. That would be my route for welding.

I already have some sfc just waiting to toss on. Hopefully I can an get those on in the next week or so.

 

thats a good place to be , i was in the iron workers for a while , my fear of heights eventually got to me. rember to put the car on 4 jackstands and level the car before welding on the frame conectors, if the chassis is twisted when u weld them in it stays twisted

 

with your access to tools n metal laying around?

my ideal mod would be to slice the floor and drop a section of square stock in and mate the front and rear frame section into a real full frame. [Have it extend far into each.] The Alstons SFC were as close to that as I could get for now, as the do that but on the underside. [ and then you retain the space down the sides to run exhaust, cept you don't need one :0 ]

 

thats how we do it in the shop they come halfway threw the floor, its by far the strongest and stiffest way to do it

 

Haa, cool vid man !

 

Thanks. Hope you didnt mind your car in there. Its the fastest thirdgen V6 I know of. Mabey ill get to your speed one of these days.


I got a cat back set up finally. A 3 inch one. Summit brand. Its all I could afford for quality right now.

Also a 3 inch cut out will be before all of the piping(to let it breath at the track or when ever i want it to be loud). I really need to quiet down the car since its missing OD now and to be honest it was getting innoying loud anyways as the bullet one i had on there was worthless.

Im just waiting on a free weekend to toss it all on and finally get this car off the stands.

 

how are ya gonna handle the tuning for corked n un-corked on the fly?

 

Tune it for both. And just swap out chips. At least that's the plan......just have a street tune like I did before with less psi and now for a full exhaust. It's not a electric cut out so when I take the cover off I'll just swap chips.

 

ahh thought you were gonna do it on the fly, these chips are wiped with UV rays right? if not could ya run some ribon wire n socket extender n flush mount em on face of the dash and talk about anti theft no chip, no go.

 

a moates 2timer or a DIY version of it would work fine.

 

when u have the funds down the road just swap the summit muffler for a borla or borla adjustable

 

and im just going to leave this here as a upgrade path for down the road

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Charge...-/321703975061

 

That's a lot of turbo lol.


a 6266 is good for 9's, but the limit of the stock bottom end may be upper 10's, IMO, with the rods being the possible weak point. If we are still talking about the 3.1?

 

its not as much turbo is it appears, it still has a t3 housing and large wheel on the turbine.
im assuming ur basing that off the 3.8 , less cubes = more turbo or more rpm to get the same as the larger motor

its prolly about the only cheap upgrade path on china turbos there is from the 3582
there is a an china 66mm which would be just about perfect , except for the fact is has a tiny tiny t3 turbine wheel and a .48 housing

though the 66mm wheel on the 3582 turbine would make a kick *** turbo for the hybrid
personally id aim for the 68-70mm range , that 72 will prolly be the eqiv of a 68mm brand name turbo

i think the old true 70mm china turbo would work well with the .84 t3 housing but i havent seen any of those for sale for a few years now

 

Quick update. I got the 3 inch instaled and the car is quiet! I havent heard it that quiet since before the turbo.

Id like to drive it but im still having a issue setting up this megashifter. The cable has to be getting kinked somewhere because if i set it up for 3rd gear(reverse manual valve body) it lines up perfect with 21RN but doesnt have enough throw to get it all the way into park.

Ill post a vid clip and such in a few when i get a chance.

 

see if the bracket on the trans that holds the cable is flexing or if the cable is being flexed

 

I'll have to see if it's getting backed up and kinking. Dang this is innoying me.


Dave if you need a chip burnt just pm me what ya need and I'll send one out no problem.

Mabey next winter I'll do a turbo upgrade. I truly believe I'm at about the maximum efficient hp range on the gt3582r.

I would love to get one of those extenders from moates. It would be awsome to put the ecm back where it's suppose to be and have that adapter mounted so I can change chips easier.

 

thanks man it wont be till this or next weekend but ill get the ecm number and broadcast code for ya i just need the code for air pump disabled, hopefully the crate engine is a direct replacemnt so the tune dont have to be messed with

dont kow if u saw my thread in pa section but i wrecked on my bike and messed myself up real good my shoulder and foot is fubar ,cant domuch for the next 6-12 weeks

 

Dave you are a glutton for punishment on a bike. Glad you're still with us.

 

cant help it i love speed , and that bike is so light and easy to toss around, not to mention very agile , i pushed the bike and myself way beyond my limits and got bitten. ill be back at it again this summer after some physical therapy to help regian range of motion back in my shoulder im sure. except this time i wont be pushing so hard

 

Glad I got my fill before them rice rockets got affordable.

Last bike with speed was a 9sec drag bike, I used a plate off a similar bike to run on the street.

after that is when I bought my Virago to just cruise.

Though on 4 wheels ive not gone fast enough yet...... yet