If the crank sensor wiring to the ICM is reversed the ICM won't use the signal. After everything else is verified then try swapping the two sensor to ICM wires.

RBob.

 

Still no spark or injector pulse.


Ok pics of the reluc wheel are attatched and Im using a 7x sensor off a 3.4L fbody.

Wiring is this as I've literly spent 3-4 hrs rechecking and rechecking and i think im starting to go nuts... I just want it to fire.

CPS is purple and yellow. (I also tried to reverse them and still no spark)

The 2 plug is termial A system/chassis ground and B is the 12vts+ Pink is hot.

The 6 plug is: All matching colors but there is no tach output on the dis plug as the car it was on did not have a tach. So i didn't splice that in yet. My tach wire is just taped up and sitting right now.

I messed with the position of the sensor some more and I constantly get the same .3xx to .8xx volt ac varriation as the sensor sees the notches come and go. I also ohmed out the sensor and get arround 900 ohms which i believe is normal even though the sensor is new i wanted to make sure it checked out ok.

The cps sensor is about 1 or 2 playing cards away from the wheel so it is very close. Mabey too close?

Is there anything else im missing? Could the module be bad? It was good on the impala last time it ran.

I tried just tapping the sensor on metal constantly with a rythem but still no spark. I tried it without the ecm attached and still nothing, not a hint of spark. I tried alot of things today and failed so im a tad bummed out. But hopefully i can get it going soon.

 

Those notches look pretty narrow.

The only connections you need to produce spark is the 2 pin power connection and the 3 pin CPS connection.

You can check that the coils are getting 12v by removing them from the ICM and using a DMM to check for 12v on one of each pair of terminals. I have found that at least one coil connection seems to be backwards to the other 2 when I have checked this.

I would also say that your CPS is too close to the trigge wheel as well. I don't recall the exact spec off hand, but I believe it's between .060" and .080".

 

The notches are about 1/4 inch wide.

I have 12vts + at term b and A with the B being the positive terminal.

I will have to test out the coils tommorow if i get a chance. Thanks for the tips!

 

edit

 

Ok I made sure my notches are at the right degrees, Ive also widened them up to make sure they are 1/4 inch wide and 3/8 deep. They were a tad narrow before.

I tried the sensor being close and farther away for literly hrs.

No reference to the ecm.

So spark in any combination.

Also measured the coil pack vts at all the terminals. They are all 12vdc at all 6. That is normal? As in, if you take off the 1/4 coil pack that both terminals are 12vdc+ Under each pack the terminals are the same polarity.

Getting quite flustrated. Anyone have a wheel and set up that works they want to sell.... thats where im at on this project.

 

If I was in this boat, id be asking TRV for help, he dives head long into stuff like this, like when he put a COP system on a Virago. [ coil over plug ] but he don't hang out here, but knows cars n everything else.

totallyredvirago
http://viragotechforum.com/memberlis...profile&u=6565

 

On another forum we've narrowed it down to either the ground for the ICM or the ICM itself.

 

Well?

Did you get anywhere?

 

Get anything figured out with your no spark issue Mark?

 

Yea I had a combination of a bad ICM and also my reluc wheel probly wasent set up right. So I got a external reluc wheel kit coming from TCE/BBC. Hopefully its here in a day or 2 so I can continue and get the car to run.

 

Awesome, looking forward to seeing yours run. Funds are coming soon for me so Im hoping to have mine running soon too. All the little stuff is left. Belt, oil pan gasket, downpipe, feed oil line, misc hoses, etc.

 

Got a wheel on. Good icm. Still no spark or reference.. wtf. Can I put my dizzy back on please.

 

WTF?

Have you tried a different crank sensor?

Check for connection through the harness from the crank sensor to the ICM.

Seriously you need 4 wires (and a shield) connected to the ICM to produce spark, that's it.
-Ignition
-ground
-2 CPS wires and the shield (only at the ICM end)

I can't think of any reason this shouldn't work.

 

I thinking the same thing six. I dont get why I cant get it. How close should I have the sensor. Too close and the ac vts get up arround 3ac vts when cranking.

 

Could be the sensor I suppose. I dont have a spare one. Its fluctating vts. A normal difference in vts while cranking?

 

When I get stuck like that, it helps to walk away and busy your mind with something else. Probably something very obvious, you just can't see right now.

[ my long time ECM problem was like that, then one day not doing anything special, I leaned on the car with the hood up, about burned my hand on the hot CCPV ]

 

When you wired power to the ICM, did you use the stock coil power lead? Or a different wire? If a different wire check it during cranking, make sure that the IGN+ voltage stays.

Not all ignition switched power leads stay hot during cranking.

RBob.

 

Ok Rbob. Will check that. I used the pink redish wire from the orignial coil but I will recheck that I used that one and the it indeed has 12vts+ there while cranking.

 

Hope you get it squared away, Im entering the home stretch as well on my build. So is Dave. Maybe we will all have our cars started this week

 

mines already been running i just tore it down for a bunch of changes , should have them all finished up wensday or thursday then i need to finish breaking in the new engine

 

Oh yea, I forgot you had yours started already

 

So I said screw it and got a new sensor and wired in a different power source because i was in a rush today and only had about 10 minutes to play on the car and what happen...... it F-ing ran! Not sure if it was the sensor yet or the power source cutting out but it runs and I can work on it this weekend to break it in completely and make sure everything is ok.

 

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+2^^

Glad to hear it ran, now get that video public, lol

 

what? Well let me check that out and change that.

ok try that now if ya want. Sorry about that.

 

Awesome!

Sounds good too.

Don't worry about not having everything go smoothly.

My first Hybrid build didn't start on the first try either.

IIRC it took me about 7 hours to diagnose why. It turned out I missed connecting the TPS ground when I made the harness, so it was in clear flood mode.

Discovered this, disconnected the TPS and it fired right up, at 11 PM next to my Grandparent's house. lol

 

Sweet first start! That sounds really good too

 

Thanks guys. I was litlery running arround the garage in excitement when it fired up!

I still have alot of little things to do. But i did check the timing and get that all loaded correctly in the bin and its idling pretty well. Im wrapping up the exhaust and tossing the turbo on now and just doing little things to get it off the jack stands and road worthy.

Thanks again for all the help!!

 

It Runs!

Good job, it's driving season. After this past Winter it is a good thing too.

RBob.

 

Now that it runs ive been taking care of the other things to make it streetable.

I got the oil return hooked up and the turbo hard mounted. Also got the wastegate welded up and actually for once..... will have this thing piped back into the down pipe. No more screamer pipe..thankfully! Did some more wireing also so now its just time to clean it all up, run some vac lines, change arround some of the coolent lines/overflow.

I would have had the oil feed done but for the life of me cant fine the an barbed fitting for the thing. So i had to order one for 5 bucks.

I do have a question. See how close this turbo is to the front of the car. Well im not a person to really romp on the car on the streets too much, its a bracket car, but I need to find a air filter somewhere that will fit in there. The one I have now is 6 inches long and I need one that is 4 inches long for a 4 inch outlet on the turbo.

Ive looked at those mushroom ones but I thought they sold ones that were actually mesh that were just shorter. I always ran a bell on the turbo at the track and now it will be basically a straght shot though the head light opening. But any ideas on a air filter? Thanks for any help. Ebay searches can be a mess.


On a side note I raced my awd escape this past weekend. Nailed the tree with some good RTs and that thing was consitant. Made it 2 rounds in sportsman and then it rained and they rained it out. That puppy was slow as can be though. I thought i could read a book in the 1/8 mile. 11.73-7's It was windy as heck so we ran 1/8th only.

 

Could build a wire frame box / area with what you have and use screen & foam filter material on a roll. So much area it will be like no filter is there still.

I woulnd't sutff a cotten filter on it. let that sucker breathe deep.

 

Had a hr or so to finish up welding up the wastegate discharge pipe to the downpipe. Went well. Fit up nicely just had to take it easy and not get it too hot and change the plains that the flanges were on.

oh ya hose clamps are cheep and i have about 100 of them laying around in case you wounder why some of my stuff has the straps and other have the hose clamps....

 

u added an intercooler this year didnt ya?

 

Yea a pretty large one. Ill have to dig a pic out if there's not one a few pages ago.

Edit. Added a few pics of the IC. Its all hooked up now but its a nice size one. About as large as i can fit in the front without doing some hacking.

 

Charge piping is done minus 2 3" clamps for the IC. Still waiting on the 4an barbed fitting for the oil feed. Then im tossing on the 90 degree out of the engine bay hooking on the WB and making sure that everything is good to go and run it for a bit to see how it acts. Ive only ran it 10 minuets so far just to break in the engine a bit.

One thing i dont like is that my charge pipe on the vertical before the TB, touches the drivers side cross over pipe. Sure didnt do that before but when i made the headers i just mustof goofed 1/2 inch or so. Dont think that will cause too much of a issue though.

 

let me know when you get that thing to the track ill have to meet you up there with my new car sold my firebird but it was rusted to all crazy great work cant wait to see how she does on the track

 

u need to push the bottom of the intercooler fowards a lil bit or the car will overheat

 

I was thinking the same thing.

 

I moved it (the IC) arround on sunday morning when i was playing with the car. Got the oil fitting. Now I just need to mount the tv cable finish the exhaust as its still mufflerless...lol but is ran out of the engine bay(not very far though). Also need to clean alot of things up but it runs well on the stands. Idles ok. No exhaust leaks that I see. I did have to re tighten up the drivers side header but its good now. I need to re tune the idle, tis a tad leaner then I like personaly when i dont have the throttle cracked a bit for the higher kpas. Im sure the rest of the rpms and kpas will need alot of adjustment but thats fun because its work that mean its close to racing.

Side note.Check out the times slips SPT 191, I had a .004 and .000 reation time this weekend in the truck and almost ran identical times in time trials, but got a .010 redlight in the eliminations. Wish I could nail consistant RTs in the camaro.....

 

its hard to get a turbo car to be consitant on the line footbraking. Using the 2 step will help u launch at the same rpm/boost pressure everytime . then the car will always react the same.

the key to using it will be setting it so u dont get to much boost or rpm on the launch to cause spin and not to low that u bog

the ideal setup with a turbo car is to put about 1-2 rotations on the tire comming out of the hole , dead hook and u will prolly bog off the line or loose boost presure

ur prolly going to need some suspension work this year
lcarbs , and drop the front swaybar at minimum , and i would swap in a set of front drag springs as they are cheap as hell , but they wont work properly witht he front swaybar attached at the track.

u dont have to drop the whole bar , just unhook one of the endlinks from one side

 

Yea its hard to get the RTs and 60s constant on a foot brake turbo car. Its a huge no no to use a 2 step in sportsman. And there is no way ill go to pro in this car ever. I dont have the cash for a trans brake and so forth to be competitive and to be honest im not that good to be in that class. I truley have no idea how fast the car will be but i do have some plans for the suspension this summer after its on the road and works well.

I almost got the exahust ran to where the stock cat converter location was. Tight quarters to get there with 3 inch but one more 3 inch weld and im home free.

My plan was to run it all the way back but im not going to because of the cost of the pipe and really i just want it quieter then it was before so i want to terminate it where the stock cat converter was. Any help on a bullet muffler that would work well to quiet it down? I have plenty of length there as long as its under about 36 inches and no more then 5 inches arround.

 

Well im off for a vacation for a few days so after work I started the car after i tossed on my downpiping to the cat convert area. I just heaved on that lil bullet that isnt really quieting it down. But next weekend its hook the tv cable up toss on the hood and take it on the road time.

You know I like videos. Actually with the amount of piping on it, its about as quiet as its ever been if you can believe that. I also tuned the idle area and its nice and solid. Doesnt hunt and the IAC is actually working well. My vacuum is about 14" at a warm idle which is what I remember it to be before. Not sure if its the rebuild, the raised comp ratio, or the DIS but the responsiveness of the idle to jolt the throttle open is much faster then before.

 

Update. All I need to do is toss on the hood and put new tags on it and drive it. Its gonna be almost no boost. 5psi spring and im not wireing up the controler and alky till i know i have this thing going ok. Felt nice to drive it arround in the driveway and get it off of jack stand after 7 months of sitting on them.

 

Nice. Yea I know how that feels, mine was on stands for about 3 months, then poof! Lol. Now its back on stands for a couple more days. If it wasnt for that collector gasket id be driving it now!

 

I know that feeling oh too well. Hopefully I wont have to put mine back on stands except to finish up my driveshaft loop.

 

Lol, im with you on that!

 

Got to drive the car finally. 2 trips and logs so far. The car halls assss. Love it. Only issue is that i have a 5 psi spring in the gate, the reference from the turbo to the side port of the gate and make 8-10psi...(top port is open to atmosphere..Really didnt want to start out that high on boost. But im running 11.5 afrs intercooler only. Intake temps really dont move from ambient and no KR.Running about 21 degrees of total timing arround that 10psi area. Didnt juice it very long. Mabey 5 seconds on the log. A 20-65mph 80% throttle pull at best. Ill update later. But Im just happy i got to drive it and it runs well, shifts well. Gotta baby this motor for a bit. Dont wana wound it.

Dave, that rfl BOV is loud. I love it!

 

u know we now demand video lol
told u rfl stands for really f'ing loud , should be driving my iroc today i hope

 

Awesome news Mark! Glad to hear you drove it. Dave I think your the only one out of the 3 of us who hasnt driven theirs yet.