I'll be dammed. I see it on my silenoid now. I checked and I did have it hooked up right but sure didnt know that sign was there. Thanks for pointing that out!!!!

 

I've never noticed that + sign either.

I think there is a lack of flyback diode in this case, is because IIRC it would slow the reaction of the solenoid when used in the manner it is. Maybe some testing is in order.

The AC and TCC circuits do not need to be controlled in a PWM manner, and therefore do not need to react quickly. Yes, I know there are PWM TCC circuits in later years, but as I recall there are no diodes on these applications either.

 

Yes, those are zener diodes that snub the voltage to a level that won't damage the driver.

They are different then a fly-back diode, which shorts the high voltage inductive spike. A fly-back diode is a regular rectifying diode that is in parallel with the coil.

Without the fly-back diode there is a high voltage spike every time the coil is turned off (power removed from it). These spikes are rather high in voltage as it had no problem shocking me through dry skin.

RBob.

 

> I think there is a lack of flyback diode in this case, is because IIRC it would slow the reaction

That jogged some gray matter, I believe that to be correct. The flyback diode would cause the current to continue to circulate through the coil, delaying it from releasing the pintle. That would explain why there isn't a clamp (flyback) diode.

RBob.

 

Thats good stuff guys. I definitly learned something new!! And useful at that. The new sileniod should be here tommorow so hopefully Ill get to make a crack at over 9psi at the track in 2 days. Im really pumped about that.

I got to tinker with the car today. It seems that I always find something that is off or strange.

I had to put on a new oil return adapter since I fabed my old one off the other turbo. So in a few words... it wasent perfect and someday it would of failed and leaked im sure. I got that new adapter on and works fine. But in the process I noticed 2 things.

First being that one of the bolts that holds on the case of the compresor was gone!! I went arround and some of those bolts were a tad loose. I took them all out and put a dab of loctite on them and replaced the one that was missing. That was strange as I never loosened them before. I turned the turbine side of the turbo before, but not the compressor.

Then I noticed I have a small but noticable exhaust leak on the turbo flange (preturbo) I need to fix that. Small as a pin hole but you can lightly feel it at idle. I know that is no good. I thought I had it all sealed up but over heat cycles this problem showed itself. Its not something thats killing my spool up but you all know its not a good thing. Problem being all I have is a stick/tig welder. I need to get my hands on a Mig because that would be a easy 5 minuet fix with a wire welder.

Else then that everything is ok. I took it for a drive and I noticed one thing. The intake temps only rose 7 degrees on a 40-110mph pull. That alot lower then before!!! I would be willing to bet I was leaking air out of that compressor housing. Thus makeing that turbo have to over spin itself and become less efficient. I was use to seeing 20-30 degree rises the other day constantly on about 8.8-9psi(wastegate spring only) which seemed ok since I have no intercooler but still seemed high for 9psi of boost.

 

nice that thing should move out this saturday? or r u going tommorow?
any plans on using the 2 step?

if u do change ur burnout procedure use the 2 step to get the turbo spooled up in the burnout box then release the brakes/2 step and do ur burnout letting the car roll to the line. this will keep the rear brakes cool on the starting line allowing u a much easier time to hold the car when waiting for the tree to come down


when u do a burnout by a brake stand in the burnout box u really heat up the rear bake shoes and then when u stage the car they wont hold as well as if they were cool


for points races if u can use the 2 step in the burnout box only it should help make the car more consitant on the line and allow u to launch at a higher rpm since the brakes will be cool and hold the car better

edit

dont forget the 2 step wont work perfect the first time out u may spin or bog off the line , so u will have to play with 2 step rpm and launch boost level to find the sweetspot were the car hooks and dont bog off the line

with my car a very little wheel spin works best, this keeps the wheel speed up and keeps the turbo happy on initial launch
and when i say very little hweel spin i mean 2-3 revolutions

 

No anti lag today dave. I had some issues at the track but all in all it was ok.

First the track had a horrible starting line. Slipery no matter if you just fry the tires or just warm them up.

So being that the track had such a bad starting line I couldnt use the anti lag. I also ran the stock wastegate all day since I only made 2 passes. This yeilded about 9 psi of boost for the whole pull. It was also too rich 11.0-11.2 on the pulls. I didnt have time to tune as the day went fast and i was working out a few items on my car since they teched me.

The times were 13.50 and 13.60 @102.7mph
60 foot times were 2.03 and 2.05 IIRC. But like I said I could feel the car almost go sideways off the start and I was launching pretty soft. Ill add a data log of the run. I will say it was making full boost by 4k rpms in 1st gear so I can be upset with that.

I am a tad pissed that it didnt go faster but considering my 13.31 run last year was on about 17psi of boost and this 13.50 was on 9psi. I feel as if shes being held back on boost. And timing. Im pretty sure I was running more timing last year but on the other hand I dont want the engine to go bang again.

Heres the 13.60 run

 

What was your short time?

 

short time?? 1/8 mile?

The slip for 13.50 was
2.03 60 ft time
8.68 1/8 mile @ 81.06mph
11.29 1000 ft time
13.500 1/4 mile @102.13mph

The 13.50 slip was a tad slower mph wise but the 60 ft was better. that track was just horrible i though.

Stil a tad dissapointed in those times though.

 

Short Time = 60'

Could easily pick up some ET there, which should bring you closer to what you hit last year for times, with less boost. Just one indication that the combination is getting sorted out.

 

a friend of mine just blew his heads off with a variant of the GT35, the Precision 6262, on his T type. one head is cracked in half, head gaskets are egg shaped, and the cam is wiped. on 26psi boost LOL. going over to look at the carnage tomorrow. He did say that it hauled serious A$$ with the new turbo. Cant wait to see what you run when fully warmed up

 

ur 8 psi less then when u ran the 13.31

what was ur 1/8th mph from last year?

the cars getting there especially for all the changes u made all winter its going to take a few outings to get it dialed in good. ur car will deff break 12's on 9 psi hell even with the slick track if u leaned out the engine a lil bit it prolly would have went 13.0


if u have a spare set of heads pm me i got a deal and a half for ya

 

My average 1.8 mile last year was arround 8.7-8.8 IIRC. I remember hitting a few 8.60's but that was with the 16+ psi of boost.

 

Had a occurance where my fuel injector(s) leaked. I assumed it was the o rings but its not. Im starting to see that the clearence between the injector bosses and the rail is just a hair too much for these newer injectors.

I can literly see the injector push down into the bosses. It seems to go too far down there and ittermittanly leaks till I take the things out and reset them. It happend 2 times last year. And now 2 times this year also. On the way home from the track this happend. Thankfully I was able to tear off the top of the engine in a parking lot with tools in my car. And just reset the injectors and made it home with no issue. Thankfully I can tear out the injectors and put them in all in about 10 minuets..lol

My point is has any one had this issue before?? I only have 2 of theses and there not on the car.


I never put them back in when I added the GN injectors a year ago. Im thinking I need these in my car. Anyone have a idea where to get these things? Im not having much luck finding them. Thanks.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-534-102

this is>

 

I don't recall exactly which injectors you have, but if Bosch III's they usually get a double o-ring on the bottom. This is to prevent vacuum leaks at the intake manifold runner.

As for the clips, yes, I always run them. Used them when replaced the OEM Multec with Bosch I's. Was somewhat of a pain to R&R them, but feel that it is better with them.

RBob.

 

Heres what I have Rbob.
There leaking from the top of the injector from being pushed into the boss so far. Ill make the order on the clips. Id rather be safe then have a unexpected fire. I have enough o-rings to double the bottoms up. I never though of that till you said something.

 

Can someone educate me though. Mine are bosch type injectors right?

 

Bosch III, correct

http://www.users.interport.net/s/r/srweiss/tableifc.htm

 

Ok thanks guys. Theres some clips on summit that are about 7 bucks for 8 so Im just going to go ahead and get them. Rather safe then sorry at this point when i have to drive it so far to the track.

The clips on summit say for all bosch type injectors and they look like the clips i have.

 

You could also get the fuel rail to sit lower. I don't recall the details of the gen1 fuel rail mounting, but I know some people that use the gen 3 top end make new mounting brackets that lower the fuel rails to use shorter injectors.

 

This thread has a picture that shows the difference in length:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...bosch-iii.html

This thread talks/shows using the double o-ring:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...-bigmouth.html

I see that the injectors you have are grooved, although not all of the way around the injector. On the stock Multec's the groove is a full 360*.

RBob.

 

Thanks for all the help guys and links too. I put a new oring on the one injector, lubed it up and tossed on the ring. Does this look right? Sorta self explanitory I guess, but ive never put them on before.



Also did I ever show you guys what Ive had hiding underneath the other car cover in my garage? 2002 impala. Ive got some thoughs about the engine(mainly the top end in the future). It runs fine but has a blown intake gasket that would need replaced. I basically traded my 2001 lesabre for it that had 240k miles on it.

 

A 3.1/3400 hybrid sounds like a great idea.

 

you would need to use 3100 pistons to have an acceptable compression ratio

 

Planning on an aluminum head swap?

 

Looks good from here.

RBob.

 

I though of going hybrid on of these day. Not this year. This is mabey something that I can just piece together over the next few years. If my house didnt want me to put so much $$ into it then I would have more for the car..lol

 

Ive been tinkering with the car a few minuets a day after work. So today I got the clips on. And rail mounted. Its a PITA to get my fuel lines back on since I flared the original rail lines so the clamps are between the end and the flare.

But anyways It passed repeated priming of the pump and rail. Ill hopefully toss the top end back on tommorow and if it ever stops raining ill take it for a little trip to make sure its ok.

 

Closed loop boost mode upper and lower PSI thresholds wouldnt affect me if I never go into closed loop.... would they? I know $59 has a few tricky items in it.

On my bin the closed loop mode threshhold high PSI is only 6psi.

 

there are multiple "loops" that can be closed.... that one is referring to using the MAP sensor as the indicator whether or not the boost solenoid DC needs modified to hit the target boost or if it's within the deadband.

 

As Saar is saying, this is talking about closed loop boost control, not closed loop fuel control. They are mutually exclusive.

 

Im sorry but i still dont understand if that needs to be changed or not.

Is that set point what the wastegate spring is? Do i match them up?

 

Update: I went out and rewired the silenoid after work. you know what the - and + were backwards on the connector. Hope that was the issue. I cant try it out as its rainy and 40*'s out.

On another note. I put the rest of the intakes on today and tried out the fueling to make sure it was leakless. It was! But the main thing was after I reset the ecm and did the regular idle relearn on it. I noticed that it idles so much better now. I mean its smooth and never hunted ever or surged. I really cant remember the last time it was so smooth. Probly when it was stock

When I use to free rev it up to say 4-5k and just let off the throttle it would catch itself from dying. It would drop rpms too far as if it was trying to catch up. Now it doesnt do that. Im so happy right now just because of how smooth the idle is. The afr's are remarkably smooth. And just the fact that it rebounds so well after a high free rev is impressive to me. This makes me think i may of had a vaccum leak before? But I would think if it was the injectors, it would spray out gas. Exspecially under boost if it was on the boss side of the injector.

Needless to say im very happy right now. The little things make me happy.

 

the fuel would have to flow backwards up the intake to spray out the injector bung.

worse case is u had a vacum/boost leak

btw putting antisieze on the injector orings on the intake side will ensure no vacum leaks , once the antisiezer heats up it turns into like a paste that helps seal. not sure if the intake gets hot enough to do it right away though.

on the ford 460 engines we put the antiseize on the ex manifolds/no gaskets and they seal up nice n tight, stuff works wonders on slip fit ex systems and ex system donouts

 

Dave have you ever used or hear of that virtual dyno software? I think its pertty cool. My car dynos at like 230hp on those runs the other day. Thats estimated wheel hp though. But I was goofing arround and tossed on of those high boost pulls at the track last year and heres what it said for 2nd gear.
Sorry thats so small. It said 447Hp @ 5990rpms... lmfao

 

some of those get pretty close others will be way off

the reason that it read so high is cause u set it up for 2nd gear u have to use 3rd

 

This looks alot more realistic. Heres the 3rd gear pull on the 13.50 run the other day.

207hp/213tq

 

even that is low ur more around 280rwhp and 400 rwtq

 

u going to the track today?

 

A week from today. Its a rainy day right now

 

Had a substantial set back yesterday. I was starting the car up to move it. It ran for a minuet. Then started to stuble a tad and the afr's went low. I shut if off. Hooked the computer up to it not thinking of anything and started it.... it went bang and a fire ball arrose. I frantically ran to get the fire extinguisher and then put the fire out.

From what I see, the supply fuel line burst. You can clearly see it on the line. It was braided high pressure hose but it went anyways. That caused the massive fuel leak that i didnt smell apon the purging. Then a arc from the plugs or something must of lit it off. The exspantion blew out the initial flame but man was is powerful. The alky line then burst causing the continued fire, as that line had a clear burst on it also.

The damage wasent terrible considering and im greatful for quick thinking and a fire ex. close by.

I didnt take any pics of the carnage as it made me sick to my stomach. The damage included frying alof of wireing that I did. Alky mainly along with many vacuum lines and a few sensor connections. I replaced it all and cleaned it up well. Another thing though is my o2 sensor is done for. It seemed ok at first but its not right. For one the abc extinguisher probly killed it and 2'nd when i took the o2 sensor out the threads almost looked like it pushed the sensor. As im left with a o2 sensor with no threads left on it.

Heres some pics as of now.

Theres some basic autozone high pressure fuel line on as of now but I will change that as soon as I get some parts. Im not racing it for a bit as of now.



Hood was discolored before but is clearly worse now.


Valve covers look like crap




This is what shames me the most. My hood is now crappy looking. Its a damm shame but its what I chance doing work on my own.


Not sure if you can tell but the plastic liner in the drivers side fender well actually blew down. The heat and pressure was that great.

 

no pun intended, but that blows.

 

car next to it

 

Car runs good though, thankfully

 

Damn that sucks! Was it braided stainless line that blew?

 

Sure was. Not sure why or what caused it. Ill have to take a pic of that and link it up here.

 

What brand if you don't mind me asking?

 

Had me scared for a min, but ive had nothing but years of good luck with the GoodYear FI rated hose from auto zone.

Though I spit on the metal tubes so it slides 4in+ on, double clamps and only been used to splice [I don't trust compression unions] so the two metal ends are very close to touching.

 

`

from what hes been telling me in pm it was an ebay ptfe braided line