That oil is on the comp side from my tranny leak delema i had a few weeks ago. Believve me when the trans cooler is pouring out and the fan is on, that crap went everywhere. I cleaned everything up pretty well.

 

gotcha from that one pic it looked like u had them parallel to the ground lol

 

Pics can be deceving..lol sorry about that.

I have my spare tranny that im going to put the shift kit into this week. Besides looking at the fluid/ and the pan in the tranny, is there anything else that I can look at in the tranny to see if it is ok? From a beginners aspect? The trans has 104k miles on it, it was a stock 3.1L engine, and I drained the fluid and pulled off the pan today and else then the little gray residue on the bottom of the pan next to and on the magnet, it visually looks and the fluid smells ok. The fluid was a tad dark but still redish colored. I would assume its just darker from being 20 years old and 100k miles of time on it.

Thanks guys. I just wana try and see if the clutch packs are ok and really dont want to mess anything up in the process. I would hate to add that shift kit into the trans and find out its slipping like a mother...lol I did drive the tranny when I looked at the engine/trans package last fall. Seemed ok but didnt do anything but drive it arround the block and really didnt floor it. I wish i would have now..lol

 

u cant check the clutches without tearing down the trans , just install the kit and call it good, personally i would install it in the one thats in the car

the lil bit of grey and metalic stuff is normal , its just from normal wear and tear in the trans

 

Im just gonna leave the tranny as is for a race or 2. I hate to say it but i dont have the time to do it properly in the next few weeks.

Good thing is we are back in business. The new alky pump came today. Best 100 bucks ive ever spent. Handles 100% alky and pumps like a champ with water. The mist is amazing for being a little 315cc nozzle. Never saw the other one take off like this one. I got a vid of it to add also.

I gotta get this tune dialed in somewhat because the first race is 4 weeks from saturday up in milan michigan.

 

Video of mist
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPVr4...ature=youtu.be

Let me reistate how crappy the old one was...

 

that will get ther job done now , i would start witht he middle nozzle cause i bet ur pumping alot more alky now

also get it back together and take a vid on the 2 step

 

Could use your old pump for an external water mist, place in front of inter cooler, rad, turbo, like a NFL player on the side lines on hot days, tiny mist of water with the air from the fan makes its 10x more effective.

 

on the street he can , on the track it becomes a saftey issue as the water would get on the track surface

 

Yea the track is where I really get on the car. So that idea is a good one, but its better on a street driver car them mine that is getting farther and farther away from a street car.If I had a trailor and a truck to pull it that car would see track time only for the most part...lol

Dave that was the medium nozzle on the vid. Im going to try out that one this weekend since its suppose to be nice. Well see how it goes.

 

even on the street I would not want it to spray anymore then what will evaporate, other wise its just wasted dripping on the ground. shouldn't even be able to tell its there cept for lower temps.

 

in the shop we had a few turbo cars with a/a intercollers what we would do is build aluminum boxes that would slip up from the bottom of the intercooler.

at the track they would fill them with crushed dry ice , or ice and water


water isnt going to evaporate fast enough to spray water on the intercooler the surface of the intercooler will prolly be around 130-150 degress and if its humid out its going to take a while for the water to evaporate .

though the water hitting the core and running off of it would help cool it.


now if u sprayed alky onto the core that will evaporate imediatly , im sure fast has felt how cold it is if u spill any on urself


disclaimer i do not advocate spraying a flamable fuel on ur intercooler , and if u do do it ur a huge idiot

 

Dont worrie im not spraying alky into the enviroment while my car is running... That stuff is amazingly cold when its sprayed though.

 

i know u wouldnt do it , i just put there for anyone else who may read my post and think spraying alky onto an intercooler is a good idea.

when u do get an intercooler again though get some 1/2 inch copper pipe , 4 90*s and one tee

solder it together in a square and then drill really small holes around one side of it on slight angles

then zip tie the side witht he holes to ur intercooler .

after that pick up a used nitrous or c02 tank and a nitrous noid

plumb it up to the bar and u just built urself a very cheap intercooler spray system , i built one for my car , and co2 is cheap to get filled

 

i just want to see more videos with the new turbo

 

lol i wanna see a video of it on the 2 step launching @ wot

 

Ill get some videos this weekend but the slicks wont be on the car so not wot launches rosting off my street tires

 

i just wanna see how fast it comes up on boost and how it sounds

im kinda jelous due to the recent gun bans and ammo shortage among other things i just used alot of my project money to buy up some guns and ammo

i just picked this up today by total luck
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/w...layErrorView_Y

guy put it on the display rack no more then 5-10 mins before i walked threw the door, he had just taken deliver of it as well

ended up leaving with it and every 25 round mag he had in stock for it

and of course i had to spring for the foward grip/bipod , flashlight and laser
along with an holographic sight lol


and most guys think cars are expensive lmao

 

From what Im seeing with the new pump and nozzle.... Im getting a 20* rise in intake temps on a 30-100mph pull at 10psi of boost. 108* was the max temp compared to 160* with the old pump and afrs of 12.0 on the old pump. The current AFR's are solid at 11.1-11.4 the whole pull. Not a drop of KR. 100% alky. Silenoid energizes at 5psi of boost. Needless to say im happy and im sure my engine is thanking me too.

 

Started putting in the shift kit today. Wish me luck. I got to step 5 and called it a day. Tommorow ill work on the seperator plate and so forth.

 

i wouldnt stop in the middle of it, a job like that should be started and finished the same day so u dont forget or misplace anythng

 

I had to. Its a job thats taking alot longer then I thought. I got a pretty good placement of all the items. And amazingly im doing well at keeping it all organized thus far. The valve body is done and thats it. Thats as far as I got. It was literly 65*'s and sunny out today. It was a shame to not drive it but I figure I had some time to start and at least weld up the plug in the oil pan today along with finish off the valve body modifications.

 

Update: got the tranny in. Works amazing is a understatement. I couldnt really launch the car since it had the street tires but it shifts into 2 and 3 amazing. Exspecially 3rd as that use to be the very lazy shift. Now its fast, firm, and just makes the car feel so much faster.

3 weeks from now ill either be happy from running 12's or determined to do so. But IMO this car can easily make it happen with a nice day at the track and a decent launch. Counting down the days. Vids and slips will be guarenteed weather its a good day or a bad one.

 

Heres a new vid. 28mph-107mph. 10psi command boost. More like 9.8psi though. Roughly 12 seconds on the datalog.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQPye...ature=youtu.be

Ill racerender it later when I get some time

 

Update. 6 Days till race day. Forcast says sunny and 60*. I pray it will stay that way..lol

I noticed that I cant make commanded boost the other day. I then checked the boost sileniod. When its energized with the full 12vdc it does not close. (is suppose to close with 12vcd, open with 0) I suspect the coil in the thing is shot. Better it died safe then closed creating 20+psi of boost..lol

I cant get another controler in time and since it maintains 9psi of boost with the current wastegate spring, im going to leave it at that and see if I can break 12's with that. If it does run 12's then ill just leave the car at 9psi for a while and drag my feet on the new controler silenoid.

 

Have you considered something like the RJC pneumatic/mechanical boost controller:

http://rjcracing.com/product/boost-controller/

A little pricey, but not too bad, and works a treat.

RBob.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SR20DET-NISSAN-240sx-MT-Red-Turbo-Manual-Boost-Controller-/260873359417?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbd439039&vxp=mtr
u have to drill one 1/16 or 1/8th hole in it to get it to work nicely , but after that they work great

 

lil more money but this style works very well too
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T2-Universal-Manual-Turbo-Boost-Controller-0-30-PSI-Vacuum-Hose-Gauge-Blue-/380609627369?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item589e1a04e9&vxp=mtr
and this is the cats meow when it comes to mechanical boost controlers , same boost controller i run
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TurboXS-Manual-High-Performance-Turbo-Boost-Controller-NEW-BC-HPBC-/281086507214?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41720fb8ce&vxp=mtr
my iroc is rolling with one of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TURBO-XS-QUAD-STAGE-BOOST-CONTROLLER-PART-BC-QSBC-/150756319082?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2319c6df6a&vxp=mtr

 

Why wouldn't he just fix what's there?

The OEM boost control works fantastic. The only times I've had issues controlling boost were when I had other mechanical issues, like leaks in the intake plumbing, or I programmed some ridiculous duty cycles for control.

 

no more 50-100$ soilinoids to burn out , or worse it sticking in the wrong direction causing massive over boost.the 4 stage turboxs controler i have on the iroc is ecm controled on mine

im not against the electronic control , but if money is an issue for him that 10$ boost controller will work just fine , just throwing out some examples for him to get by on the cheap for now not to mention its adjustable on the fly from the driver seat instead of having to burn a new chip

 

Or spend a little more the first time, instead of wasting money on something that will be replaced making the "get by item" obsolete.

I guess that's where I differ from a lot of people, I've done the "get by fixes" and realized that I was just throwing money away, and now strive to repair things right the first time and not waste money, or time.

I'm not convinced that there even is a problem with the solenoid. Fasteddi, did you try to blow through the solenoid with it energized? You can use a couple jumper leads to energize the solenoid from the battery. Keep in mind that when the solenoid is energized that the two ports that are side by side will be connected and allow air flow, but the port on teh opposite end will not be connected through.

Diyautotune sells a solenoid that many people are using to directly replace their GM solenoids, and it is said to require less duty cycle. If I ever have a GM boost control solenoid burn out, or make that a few since I have a few on hand, I'll go to this one. As of yet though, I have not had one fail.

Also the GM solenoids fail in a low boost mode, this is how they are designed.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/e...kit-p-285.html

The "boost controller" in the link that RBob posted is a simple Grainger Valve. I used one in my first turbo swap, and while it worked ok, it seemed that changes in ambient temperature and barometric pressure changed the boost level it would "control".

Here is a write up on that style valve: http://www.dempseybowling.com/perform/grainger.htm

 

Six. I checked and 12vdc is present when the car is on at the harness for the silenoid. I blew through it when it was off and when it had the 12vdc to it. No difference as the air flowed though it the same. The two port that leads to my wastegate flows the same amount of air regardless. I was suprised that it failed too..... Im almost sure it was a athentic AC delco one which is why I was suprised to see it die in one years time.

I like my set up for boost control. I will be getting another of the same soon. Its not a $$ aspect of contoling the boost. I dont care if it cost 10 bucks or 100 bucks. As long as it controls boost safely then im happy. I like that it fails to open(safe) among the DC% aspect to slow down boost spiking.

Last year when I was being a idiot and having boost leaks all the time the DC was pretty high sometimes exspecially when I jacked the boost up. 75-85%DC most of the time. This year so far it has been about 30-35% duty cycle on average at 12psi till she died the other day. Mabey the DC I had going last year was just too much for the thing?????

Ill order one but if the car runs 12s this saturday then i probly wont use it till i feel the need to. 9psi makes the car fell pretty good.

EDIT: I would think I could just ohm out the coil and see what it it. Im going to do that and post the results.

 

Don't trust leaving it connected to the harness.

I have found that when the engine is off and the car is not moving, the WG control solenoid is not triggered.

This is why I suggested using test leads to trigger the solenoid.

 

UPDATE.

I ohmed the silenoid out. 24.5 ohms right off the bat. My first idea is "thats pretty high for a little tiny silenoid". So I then turned the car on and assured 12vdc was there. I rechecked blowing though the ports again becasue I was second guessing myself. There the same as before the test. So I then turned the car off and ohmed out the coil again... nothing, infinity. Doesnt even Meg! After a few minuets later the coil ohmed at 24.5 or so ohms again.

Shes toast. I probly caused this. From being a idiot last year...lol

 

What about the ohms six?? I just saw your post above. I could go trigger it if you think those ohms are fine. But i feel there showing the coil is pretty much opend.

 

I just tested the one I have sitting here on my desk. It showed 25.1 ohms initially. Connected it to my power supply for a few seconds, resistance then showed 26.6(ish) ohms.

If it was me, I would connect it to a power source using jumper wires to verify.

Remember the ECM grounds the solenoid to activate it. You will always have 12V at the solenoid with the key on. In fact you should have 12V at both terminals with the solenoid plugged in, and not being triggered.

With the solenoid reading no connection after being connected it could indicate that it is bad. I've seen some meters indicate this incorrectly though, especially after a coil has been charged. This is why I like to do actual power tests, providing power from a known source, to trigger the device.

I forgot to mention earlier that I believe that the ECM doesn't trigger the solenoid until a couple other parameters are met (VSS IIRC being one of them) is to keep wear on the solenoid down, since it doesn't need to be activated until the car is starting to make boost. The spring in the WG will hold it closed until at least a few PSIG is being made, at which point the solenoid can close to keep the pressure away from the WG actuator until the desired boost level is reached.

I know you went back to an old bin, these could have factory control settings that may not be set to control the boost at the level you want. Check your Closed Loop Boost Mode Threshold settings, and make sure they are not beyond your current boost level you're achieving. Also verify that you're using the type of boost control you want to under flags, either MPH based or TPS based control.

 

Ok six. Thanks for the tips and help. I will check those areas out.

 

Not entirely the same. The RJC set up uses a ceramic ball in place of the steel one. This allows the valve to respond more quickly and is less susceptible to outside influences.

I run one, and am also not worried if the boost is at 20 psi or 22 psi when the target is 21 psi. If the tune is that much on the ragged edge, the engine is going to go away sooner or later.

RBob.

 

Whether it's a ceramic or a steel ball, it's the same. Functions the same, looks the same. I could change the spring, would that make it different? Arguably yes, but the same theory applies, just the opening pressure would be different for the same amount of compression of the spring. It's a Grainger valve, nothing special.

It's not about the tune being on the edge, it's about having consistency.

 

I did try manually supplying 12vdc power to the sileniod and still doesnt work. As soon as I give it power the Ohms will go to infinity for a few minuets. I believe that my insane duty cycles last year probly shortened the life of the coil immensly. I ordered another sileniod. I really like the gm boost sileniod. It was very good to me at the track at keeping consistant boost run after run.

 

The DC shouldn't affect the longevity of the solenoid. GM uses PWM on other solenoids (EGR, CCP) will no ill affect. One thing to be careful of is the polarity. Many (all?) solenoids have a flyback diode in parallel with the coil.

If the coil is connected in reverse this will pop the diode. High voltage kickback will then occur when the coil is de-energised. The diode is there is short/snub that voltage spike.

RBob.

 

checking operating current would also give some good info. should register near 1/2 amp with 12 volts applied.

 

ok Fellas thanks. One thing though is there is no polarity on this connection that i can see on the controler. I was "told" it didnt matter when i first put the thing on. Mabey that was wrong? It did work pretty good for the last year. So is there actually a way to know what is what on it?

a fly back diode? as in a check valve(for power) opperation?

 

if i understand how flyback voltage/current works, the diode actually acts more like a blowoff valve(except instead of releasing unwanted pressure, it "vents" the voltage that gets produced when the coil's magnetic field collapses).

 

Ahh ok. That would make sence.

I just remember back in my schooling about some electronics because we didnt get into it too much at all. Diods triacs exc stuff like that. And how diodes are one way current "valves"

 

Just suggesting another valid option. Many ways to 'skin the cat', so to speak. No need to blow it off.

RBob.

 

next time you are around a fox mustang, take a look at the IAC circuit, you will find a large plastic diode. thats about the simplist looking flyback diode I know about LOL

 

Looking into the connector portion of a Sy/Ty WG Solenoid. The terminal on the right marked + is the IGN switched voltage. The other terminal goes to the ECM.

RBob.

 

Well, did some testing. No diode in that solenoid (AC Delco for a Sy/Ty). Got a good shock from the flyback voltage too. Also checked an OEM Delco Remy EGR solenoid (vacuum style), no diode there either.

A little surprised at this as there is definitely a high voltage kick back when the coil is de-energised. There is a diode in the TCC solenoid, and the A/C clutch connector has one also (within the black duct tape).

RBob.

 

from what i can tell, GM relied upon the ECM circuitry to deal with it? almost every output in a 7727 has a diode with the "stripe" side towards the controlled portion of the circuit, with the other end connected to ground.

is that not the diode's purpose, to deal with the backlash from an inductive load being turned off?