slips/datalogs?

 

I can take some pics later today. There basically spitting images of the week before.

 

u ever get those datalogs?

btw any plans for track time this weekend ?
maybe throw an extra pound of boost at it to get out of those 13's lol

 

Been so busy it not funny..lol Ill load up some logs saturday for ya to check out.

Cant hit the track till the end of the month though.

 

Heres a 13.0's pass a few weeks ago. 12 or so psi and rich..lol (datalogg) No dataloggs from last weekend as I was in points so its not alowed let alone did i feel i needed to since i wasent going to change the tune and make my car run different. The car is deadly consistant, if i could just always have .00x bulbs id be a beast at the track.

Heres 2 slips from last weekend. I was launching a tad softer. I was really trying to focus on my RT. For the most part they were ok till it came to the first round where i fell asleep and went .076 on the tree..wtf! So the run that was a 13.7 I was also peddling a bit at the end and as you can see i broke out but the margin of victory was pretty close. 35 thousands of a sec.




Sorry its sideways. This was the peddling race.

 

i think u need to lower ur dial 12.90-13.00 and run the car out without peddling just as it sits without any changes.

staring to log the weather on each slip will also help u in future races, i dont know if u have a smart phone but theres a few apps that can log all the information and ur slips

the cars getting faster as the day goes on

edit

im at work right now but when i get home tonight ill look at that datalog

 

I have crew chief pro. Its a good program to log the weather but even though the program is good it doesnt react with the change in weather like the car does. It is going much faster as the night goes on, your right about that, my guess is because our time trials have been when its 75 degrees and sunny/windy. Then our first run is when its much cooler out. Im rich and im guessing its leaning out a tad, just enough to make it run a little faster. But overall the car is within a tenth durring all the runs. Im still learning though since its reacting a lot different this year compared to last year. But one thing im getting good at this year is the RTs thankfully.

 

can u adjust fuelping based on air temp?

if u find out how much a 10-20 degree drop in temp leans out the engine u can fudge the ait correction numbers to keep afrs constant

 

Well I just picked up a few items for the car( ordered ones )

I got a set of wire looms coming, a new set of taylor 8.2mm wires, a msd coil(finally, Ive had a stock one the whole time) Also ordered up a small 8x4inch body muffler and another 90* manderal 3inch bend for the exhaust.

The reason for the exhaust is that last night I drove the car home for a hr on the highways. I had 2 cops literly turn arround and follow me for way too long. That drives me crazy. And to be honest cops just make me parinoid exspecially when I have a 13.10 dialed on the window still, SPT 191 stickered on the window and a helment in the seat.....lol good times for sure!! So now ill have something for him to look at (a lil muffler) lmao. And to be honest the damm cars a tad loud.

My old plug wires are dead shot anyways so i wanted some lower resistance ones with the msd coil paired with the 6al I already have running. Then I thought.. i need looms to keep those puppys from cross fireing.

So later this week when I get some items I can add a few items that really, the car needed. Oh how it loves to take my money...

 

its not a chambered muffler is it?

chambered muffler + turbo = big pile of steaming crap

not to mention antilag + chambered muffler is sure to turn the muffler into a grenade
even with a bullet muffler u have that risk but it is a very very small risk

 

chambered probably sounds awesome at idle.

i'm a big fan of glasspacks on a 60V6 though.

IIRC, there's one other main form of muffler, i want to say baffled? it's the type that comes from the factory.

 

chambered sounds good at idle but crappy everywere else

he needs a glasspack or bullet muffler to not kill performance

 

I would take it off at the track. Its a small lil thing. mini bullet

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-24250

Its mainly just so if i do get pulled over i do have some sort of muffler insted of just a open header setup though it will probly still be quite loud .lol Cant go wrong for 20 bucks.

 

that's possibly the shortest glasspack i've ever seen.

 

dont even bother taking it off it wont hurt perfomance at all , and it may change the tone of the ex a lil but i doubt u will see more then a 1-2 db in noise reduction

 

Well im still dumping the exhaust up front so thats why im trying to keep it as short as possible

This winter ill fix it all and run the exhaust down the firewall like it should be..

 

copy my downpipe and have it exit under the passenger side rocker , i have a full on muffler mnounted there that i use for street driving, with the muffler on the car is dedly quiet except for the watsgfate dump and u can hear the compressor side spin up

but there is zero turbine/ex whine

i use a summit turbo muffler on my car for the street and its silent

at the end of my downpipe i have a 3 bolt flange i use for bolting the muffle ron and off and on the backside ( tailpipe side of the muffler i have a hanger thats mounted to the floor to support the wieght

 

could still be a problem, an exhuast must exit in front of the rear tire min by law, so fumes and such can't enter the side windows.

 

you know gumby i never even thought of that...

 

find a cherry bomb on CL and cut it in half. Old timer trick for getting a 2 fer 1 header muffler, LOL.

 

not exactly true it depends on were u live , were i live if i had say a n/a v8 3rdgen and had long tube headers i could put collector mufflers on it as long as i turn the ex out to the sides of the car

my ttiroc the downpipes come down to the bottom of the firewall and turn out twards the sides of the car behind the front tires and it passes state inspection here

 

The same guy I got the rear end off of, is going to sell me his cat back 3 inch flowmaster set up. I may not get it on this year but hopefully durring the winter months I can make it work. Im not a huge fan of flowmaster but for the little bit of $$ he wants I cant turn it down let alone for the piping since its 3 inch.

 

i dont think it will muffle the exhaust very well, and blowmaster is one of the worst flowing aftermarket mufflers.

 

The problem is carbon monoxide builds in your system over time; a slow leak won’t kill you right away. Breathing a slow leak month after month the toxin can build in your system to dangerous levels.

http://voices.yahoo.com/carbon-monox...t-5748240.html


Why so many rods have mufflers that end at the axle
no axle loop #1
#2 to be visualy legal

Ive thought about it some but thought if I went that route id try to find/ make some oval pipe, to get the exhaust from the front to the back with no BP, [scrounge up 5in diels pipe and squish it, take 3in pipe, slice and widen it into a oval, nascar type giant thin square 2ft wide, 2in thick..........]

 

I got some stuff today in the mail. The coil and looms. Also the 90* ex bend. The 8.2mm thundervolt taylor wires will be here tommorow.

I think the 6al will like this coil a tad better then a bone stock one. Gotta love 10% off and a free shipping coupon. 25 bucks to the door for this lil fella.


I took off the DP to check out the turbine. Looks ok from what I know but scope it out. Last driving was about 60 miles straight highway minus one (almost donut) burnout....





Also do you guys thing that this extra piping and that lil muffler will really hurt my flow at the track? This is just the amount of pipe i plan to use once i get the muffler. This will all be welded if i feel it wont slow the car down. The exhaust will actually fit under the a arm as long as I keep it high and tight. It would be dumping behind the front tire(rear side) and about right under the drivers side floor pan.



This is just to get me by for traveling this year. Next winter ill probly change it up again and do it right this time running it next to the fire wall out.

 

Just get a non electric cut out for the exhaust and weld it in, they are cheap enough, this way you don't have to worry about any restrictions when your at the track, while staying quiet on the street...

 

I dont think ill add a cut out just because I dont plan to run this ex set up for more then this year. I am excited that i plan to TIG weld this new piping up. Ive been getting tought how to learn on mild steal. Havent learned stainless yet. So hopefully after I get it tacked up here at home, ill take it to work and TIG it. Im officially a pipefitter apprentice now, got swarn into the Local UA union last night after being on union probation for one year. So I have a Hvac degree but and now a pipe fitter... that works on large industrial Hvac stuff....lol

Finally a good set of wires. After the fire the old wires were junk so i had stockers on some of the plugs. These are taylor thundervolt ones. They were the best ones i could afford. And I feel they will be good ones for a long time. About 55 bucks.
v

 

Light update. Got the wires on the car and the wire looms. The looms make it look much neater! Got the coil on but didnt figure out where to mount it yet. Didnt mess with the exhaust. I spend the day putting back together a 3400 gm engine on my girlfriends impala. Nice lil engine but a pita to work on when its in there sideways. I had to replace the lower intake gasket. It was werid having those different rockers, different length pushrods, but god do i love not having a dizzy on that thing!

Plan to take the camaro to the track next weekend. Will be running the taller tires so im not sure how much that will slow me down. I was going to turn the boost up just a hair but its suppose to be about 90*s this weekend so that may just have to wait. Hopefully i dont loose more then a tenth or 2 at the track with those taller slicks.

 

that turbine wheel looks good could be a touch whiter but still looks good

once u learn how to tig weld mild steel stainless will be easy , that hard part about stainless is it warps more

launch harder to make up for taller tire i wanna see a 12.80 out of that thing next time out

 

ps that means dont get on the brakes at the stripe , or lift off the gas till ur 50ft past the stripe :P

 

yea, NO LIFT

 

Bro, don't even lift.

 

track today or tommorow????

 

Tommorow if the rain holds off.

 

weather here has been so random, they can't even get hr by hr weather right anymore..........

 

It is raining right now. Im going to drive the gtp over to the track since its over a hr away and I don't want to get caught up in the rain in that Camaro. Suxs but if I can make a pass its the L67 that's gonna see the track today.

 

Yea it was a monsoon at the race track today. Took the grand prix for a hit though. Went 14.19 today, that's a new best. Next week its Camaro time!

L67 video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nuId...ature=youtu.be

a little over kill here on the tires?? Oh well

 

Ahh yes. Yet another toy for the ole Camaro. Hope to wire it up really quick on Saturday for the races. No 2 step though, as I do need to do some winning this weekend while I have a chance.

This things a lot smaller then a 6al. I like it!

 

what ya doing with the 6al?

 

Its tosted bad. Insides look like someone just took a ball of black soot and chucked it at the insides...lol I sold it off to a electronics friend for 50 bucks that said he might fix it so I was out 20 bucks in total.

 

dammit i was going to offer u 50 bucks for it even if it was broke lol prolly could have fixed it myself

 

good luck today

 

Thanks.

Car did well last night. Got though the first round with a .004 Rt and crushed the guy at the tree so I peddled it a bit at the end. Lost 2nd round because the car picked up some massive power somewhere. I was having some boost control issues but it seems to be fine now.

I got your anti lag video here!! This was 4psi of sustained boost at 2500rpms 2600 rpms and 2700 rpms in the video. How do I get the car to sustain a bit more boost?? Retarding the timing doesn't do much so should I go into the file and richen up the areas?? What should the wideband show when im under the 2 step???? But the car definitely does yank ya hard. I plan to run the anitlag next time out.

The car did slow down about 3 tenths as I was making 13.30's and a high of 13.41 at one point. Those are some massive tires but when you get a deal you just have to run what ya can afford. Still at the same 11psi of commanded boost.

my .004 rt win and peddle.

 

opps.. double post

 

I don't even consider that racing if you lose for going to fast......... Im sure it wasn't invented by a Furd owner who was always 2 tenths slower......

 

the wideband will go nuts when ur on the antilag,

to get more boost try without as much retard, or more rpm.u may also have to stay on the antilag longer then u are for more boost.its just something u will have to play with

btw the rear of the car is squating on launch u need some lcarb brackets for sure think founders has them for 40 bucks

if the car picked up massive power and u didnt change anything u need to slow down and figure out whats wrong, cause something is wrong if the car all the sudden picked up 30hp and u didnt change a thing

did u record the weather changes threwout the day ?

also its not that the tires are to big there is no such thing the car slowed down due to the extra rotational wieght added by the larger tires , drill the axle flanges , and get lighter rims and u will get ur 3 tenths back

 

Ok that makes me feel better because that wide band was all over the place. High and low. Looked like a narrow band with a guage..lol

The weather was a considerable factor. I always record the density, humidity, wind...exc and for the most part it helps me dial in. It dropped about 10 degrees and the altitude was much better, and absolutely no head wind unlike earlier. But I really think the big difference what my launch rpms. I wanted a good rt so when I want that I tad to launch at lower rpms so that I can bump in better. My 2 round I just layed into it at the launch so the rpms were sig. higher but since the sun tach doesn't work with the msd box I cant be sure how good my stocker was at being consistant.

I launched at 2500 rpms all day then 2700 on my last pass. I look and compare it to other slips and weather and it seems that my final pass would have been 13.15ish pass. So really the tires may have dumped me 1-2 tenth tops considering the same exact launch and weather conditions.

Dave, on those antilags I had no retard on (0*) on the box. I really didn't see much effect with the timing retarded. I did earlier when I was playing with it but it did no difference in spool up. When I was playing with it, it would spool up in about 2 seconds then just stay at the psi down to the tenth of psi, I mean it was stable as can be. Just seems that I need to add a tad more fueling to get that baby going. I am going to try and get it to hold and maintain 6-8psi and then do the rpms by what I can hold at the line.

I will say I was smiling ear to ear when the car was hitting the 2 step. Not every V6 Camaro that does that...lol

 

if that thing hooks up on the antilag its going to be a rocket

2 things to check

#1 what psi is the wastegate spring ?
if its 8-9 psi spring heres whats happeneing
a wastgate spring is ratesd at the psi its fully open so an 8-9 psi spring will start to open around 4-5 psi

what the spark retard does is allow the next cyl to fire with the ex valve open, this ignites the raw fuel in the header from the cyl that had the spark cut , ideally this work best with igition timing around 5-10* adtc . with ur box u can only pull 9.9* total
so if on ur ignition map ur at 18* total timing the retard is only pulling u back to 8-9* btdc


and i can tell u this is the issue just from watching the video, its not pulling enough timing to light off the mixtture in the header, if it was u would hear super loud poping and banging like gunshots. when it works right it sounds like automatic rifle gunfire


and i mentioned the lcarbs without them u may or may not have a wheel hop issue , if it starts to wheelhop get out of the throttle dont try to drive threw it cause u will start breaking driveline parts

 

the wastegate spring without the boost controller is showing 9 psi to be fully open. With the controller on though, I would think it would still control the boost but I might need sixshooters advice on that because im not sure if it will let me bring that much boost up while im at 0mph. As is the controller doesn't become active till the car is literly moving.

lacabs??? Lower control arms?

I will try it out next week again and retard the timing to the max 9.9*'s and play with the tune. I could also go in and at the rpms im at, dump the timing a tad and see if that helps to get it going. At 4 psi of boost im at a 25 degrees of timing ATM. 8psi is 22*

 

http://www.foundersperformance.com/p...-Brackets.html

yeah u could dump timing in the ignition map @ 2400-2900 rpms and 4-8 psi to around 5* btdc then use the ignition box to pull it back the extra 10* making ur total timing 5* atdc

shouldnt really hit that low of an rpm on the street under boost so it should be fine to street drive like that as well, like i said ur just going to have to play with it and see what works

wastegates springs generally tend to crack the wastegate open at 4-5 psi below there rated presure , if u can get the timing back far enough to start ligting the mixture off in the headers the wastegate cranking wont be an issue

on pilsburys car we can build full boost even with the wastegate wide open


when ur using the 2step u are holding the throttle wide open right?

wish i lived near bye so i could come help u with the car bet u we would have that thing in the 12.50's or better next weekend