So my 2.8 v6 fuel injected car started running pretty rough. i determined that the issue was injector 1 was not injecting fuel. The wiring harness for my fuel injectors are pretty beat up with solder work and tape holding it together and some exposed wire showing. so i was thinking that the problem is probably the wiring and not the injector. so while the car was running i started poking the fuel injection wires with a stick to try to see if the injector would start working. instead a giant spark occurred and the car shut off. I started it and now the car is running worse then ever. i think it is running on 2 or 3 cylinders now... i plan on going to an auto yard Monday to buy a new harness. now i'm worried that i created a short and possibly have ruined a fuel injector. could a short ruin an injector and make me have to buy a new one to replace it?

 

A short would not likely damage an injector, it could however damage the injector driver. The injector driver is in the ECM, you might want to grab a replacement ECM while you're at the yard.

I don't recall if the ECM used on the 2.8 has a single or dual injector driver. If it is a single driver then the ECM is likely OK, if it's a dual, it could have one damaged injector driver.

There is also the possibility that something else was damaged, such as another wire, or related component that is fed from the same harness.

 

Blown fuse as well maybe?

 

I am going to start at the very beginning I have a 1991 V6 3.1 T Firebird we have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, and ECM, we also had gotten replacement injectors for it but had to have it garage done so I drove it about 3 miles and it just died no warning a block away from the place I was going to have the injectors installed so the mechanic did some work which he told me that the wiring harness may be faulty..well my son and I looked at it and we found this attached:
this is what it was plugged into:


my question is if this was to the injector harness and if so even after taking the first item out and plugging 2nd item in.. the car will still not fully start it turns over but never to actual fully crank and run on its own so need any other ideas cause the search on numbers of 1st item says it was a moltex 1 injet. and the "bottom feed" injet used on 2.2 L 4cyl J & L cars yrs '89-'93

 

You scored yourself a noid light. They are used for visually testing for a signal to the injector(s).

If there is signal there, with the noid light plugged in it will flash, while cranking or running.

If you do not have a signal to the injectors I would work backwards in the chain, check the output of the ECM to the injectors, there could be a broken wire between the ECM and injector(s).

If there's still no signal, check for an input from the ICM, also check to see if there's spark, with no spark, there is usually fuel injector pulse as well. The ECM uses an input from the ICM mounted inside the dizzy, to determine RPM and uses that for basically all of it's calculations.

 

you got a vacuum leak at the vaccum T fitting.

 

Ok in following pic I have circled in red the T fitting I think is missing a vac line and if so where does the other end go:



Thanks for any and all help and sorry to everyone for the SUPER LARGE PICs earlier

 

Should be a vacuum line straight to the throttle body i believe. I don't think this diagram shows all the emission equipment so it may be to something else. On my car there was a valve for the smog pump that I think was split into the fuel press. vac. line. You can run a rubber line straight from the regulator to the throttle body to remove all the brittle plastic lines. To make the engine run, at a minimum, you just need vacuum to the fuel press. reg. I found out that brake line fits tightly into the rubber grommet on the throttle body if you would prefer to bend metal lines to dress it up.

 

yup the t dont belong looks like somone broke the factory hard plastic line and replaced it with that to make it work , that line should plug directly into the big rubber block on the back of the throttle body

edit that plumbing is for the 2.8 , from memory the vacum lines on the 3.1 are slightly different, fast edi or anyone else with the 3.1 engine handy can tell u exactly were it can go, all that crap is gone of mine so i cant even look at it to tell ya

 

OK now I have 2 questions...1st being is this the same as for a 1991 3.1 V6 and 2nd if this is the same for my model could you possibly draw a red line from and to where you are mentioning in your response

 

this is the correct one for the 3.1



looks like u are missing the hose from the throttle body to the tee in that line

see were the hose connected to the fuel presure regulator is connected to , if it goes to the throttle body then u are missing the hose going from the tee to the air valve on the air pump.

if the other end of the hose goes to air pump then u are missing the line from the throttle body to the fpr tee

 

thanks that helped somewhat as far as getting vac line replaced tried to start car but it burp like it was going to but didn't which I have to say is the most we have gotten from it in awhile but still now all it does is turn (cranks) but no start (running) also in the pic of the canister you show two hoses from it which I have found but I think where the vent is marked on canister we have a large hoes from it runs toward fender then Ts off to a short hose toward firewall but stops behind coolant tank and other (left side) of T drops a long hose in between the fender walls is this ok as if remember right and way hoses look been there ages and car was running with it.

 

There's a vacuum reservoir ball inside the driver side fender.

 

would you happen to have a pix of it, I don't see anything that might even be it

 

You can probably see it if you pull down the driver side fender liner.

 

I think I want a manual to use with this car, I was on ebay but there are so many different ones..... which manual would be best for a simple DIYer and where would be the best place to get it?

Thanks

 

get a factory GM manual. Autozone-esque manuals like Chiltons and Haynes leave out a lot of information. The Haynes manual I have (came with the car) doesn't include valve adjustment procedures or window regulator replacements -they're really only helpful for an absolute beginner that needs a procedure for changing brakes or something. The OEM manuals include information about every single bolt and wire on the car - well worth the extra money. I'll mail you the Haynes manual I have if you pay for shipping, just got some water damage but perfectly legible.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-CHEVY-CAMARO-SHOP-MANUAL-SERVICE-BOOK-ORIGINAL-OEM-/220641911664?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item335f486370&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks but think I'll look for the factory book, do those just go to one year(1991) I noticed the others have at least 3/4 different years in one book

 

Well I looked on ebay saw one that was a CD, but the book was $103.
can't afford that one, but the CD you can't take to the car to compare pictures. One other question.... my '91 is just a base model and I see these books say Trans Am or Formula so does that make a difference?