The tail light fuse keeps blowing and taking my dash lights with it. I cannot for the life of me figure it out.. i tried replacing my headlight switch and it worked for a couple days until i turned into my driveway earlier today. Ive checked the stereo for loose grounds and couldnt find any i also checked the wires to the taillights and ripped out every lightbulb back there... Nothin.. im about to rip my dashboard out again... Can anyone throw me a bone?? I first noticed it when i replaced the distributor cap.. but i really dont think that could be it.. the wire coming off the ignition module of the distributor is the only one i disconnected when i replaced the cap.. Im really stumped on this and i need them to work ASAP im supposed to drive to LA sunday night..

 

The very best thing to do is follow the wiring from the steering column back to the left the trunk and to see if there are any wires that might have split open and are touching bare metal anywhere*...Also check around the steering column at the firewall too for any exposed wires*

 

Fuses blow when too much current flows through them, if it happens repeatedly, 99/100x you have a power wire grounding out somewhere, your ground wires aren't the issue, your power wires are, when a power wire contacts metal body, frame, or anywhere that grounds back to the battery, the electricity goes straight to ground, both bypassing the device its intended to power, and because of that has nothing to limit its flow, which if not for the fuse would burn up the wiring, which is what its there to prevent. They make resettable breaker jumpers for testing issues such as this, I suggest you get one, whatever you do, don't just eliminate the fuse or stuff a bigger one in. As for finding the short, start by testing each connector in the circuit for power on that wire, starting from the front back, till you get to the one that has none, and or blows the fuse or breaker if you get one, it will be between that and the last good connector. Another way you could find it is with an inductive amp meter clamp, though you would have to have good access to the wire.