Has anyone seen one of these up for sale? I've been looking for awhile but haven't found one in a few years.

 

Unless you're racing a class like midgets, where every ounce of weight counts, I wouldn't bother. They were never deemed to be good for a street vehicle. The production blocks are much better for that.

 

I'm looking for a block I can take to 1000hp. Well maybe a bit of a pipe dream but I'm going to try my damnest to get there.

 

The Bowtie block is not the block for that.

 

i have one and i deffinatly agree

 

Fill a FWD block with cement then?

 

id rather fill a rwd block and get custom 4 bolt billet caps and girdle.
iron is always stronger then aluminum

 

Why a RWD block? Lifter valley is a lot stronger on the FWD. Planning on 4 bolt caps and a girdle either way.

 

My plan is to use a FWD block for my high power build.

 

LZ9

 

What kind of mods are you thinking it would take to get there? How far has a 60* been pushed before? How much power are you making now?

 

Look into an aluminum 231 Buick block from TA Performance if you want the light weight. Only set you back about $4K.

 

Should be able to do it with 3500 stuff ported out as much as possible, a healthy cam and a pair of good sized turbos. Some people tell me what I have on it now can move enough air to get me there but I think it will top out around 700hp with a pair of T3/T4's. Not sure what I'm making now but it was enough to snap the original crank in half LOL. Probably somewhere north of 400hp. I'm getting into uncharted territory now AFAIK.

 

Have you any idea what the cost may be? I've been browsing the wot-tech site and they have tons of high performance stuff but top end parts are very big bucks. What would need to be done to a 3.4 block to allow it to handle what a full on 3500 top end with turbos could push into it?

 

I seriously doubt the stock 3500 rods would be good for 1000hp. There's a guy on V6Z24 running 10s with aftermarket rods and pistons but before that motor he had different rod failures on two engines. IIRC one set of rods bent and a rod bolt broke on the other engine. 16 psi seems to be the limit.

I recently popped a head gasket running 14 psi but I plan on installing my ARP head studs for next year after I pick up another engine.

For some reason the hyper 3500 pistons seem to never fail...

 

I'll be using a forged bottom end, I already have the crank which ended up costing me $700 with machining. Should come to another $1800-ish on top of what I already have into it, assuming I stick with the 3.4 block and a pair of T3/T4's. Going to need 4 bolt rod caps and a block girdle machined, my main concern is the lifter valley and sealing the heads. Luckily there's enough out there for these motors that I can assemble something that will live for awhile at this level.

 

What did you do to the crank and are you needing to order custom rods and pistons? What compression ratio?

If worried about the lifter valley why not use a FWD block?

 

Haven't seen pistons available for the 3.4 so I'll need those made but I'm just going to machine some forged small journal SBC rods to fit and 9:1 cr. I'm concerned about the lifter valley on both blocks actually, not sure what to do there. Transmission & the rear will be a different story. Might have to get a speedway adapter and put a TH350 behind it.

 

Wot-tech.com sells some forged 3400 pistons. Have you looked at them yet?

 

$850 huh? I could probably get some done cheaper than that.

 

It used to be between $100 and $125 per hole to get custom pistons.

I would not be worried about the valley of a FWD block, plus if you use the genIII block, you're getting a stronger crossbolted bottom end to start with. This is part of the reason why I'll be starting with a 3400 or 3500 in mine, I have both, just not sure it's worth the effort to put a 3400 together, when I have the 3500 parts sitting there.

 

j.e cutom pistons ran me over 130 per piston , granted they were very high compression pistons , a set of flat tops or dished may be less money



i dont recall but if ur running ebay turbos u will be lucky to get 600hp out of the pair i think ur using i.e the 46 mm inducers

a pair of the 57's will do about 900 ish
a pair of the gt35's will do just over 1150


400crank hp will not break the crank with the bottom end in good condition and setup properly

blc broke his crank from straight up from the main caps walking

 

Another question, how's anti-lag going to treat catcons?

 

will more then likley burn them down, and mufflers can turn into mini bombs

the cats will get alot of raw fuel if it dont all burn and that will melt them down, and depending on the type of muffler if they load up with fuel they could go bang

if its a straight threw muffler it should be ok

 

Also, anyone know what the main caps on fwd blocks are made of? Kinda looks like powdered metal not cast.

 

if ur going to do main caps dont screw around with it and get billet caps made

 

Just looking at options before I dump money.

 

Is there a double roller chain for the fwd block, or can one be adapted to fit?

 

Haven't you already adapted a RWD timing set to a FWD cam?

 

Yep, any issues I'm not aware of putting it in a FWD block?

 

I'm sure it could be figured out... I've been considering trying a cloyes double roller chain on my 3500 using your method.

Alternatively the 99- timing chains are supposed to be the best; some have also had success cryo treating them.

 

You aren't looking very hard. We have one.

 

Naturally you have one.

 

nice and shiny lol , wish mine looked that nice mine has windows in it

 

This is a brand new N.O.S. block that was ordered years ago and never used. They are NLA...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10051141

 

Thats one nice looking block!

 

Anyone have experience with 0-280-150-837 injectors? Should give me enough for 1000hp on e85.

 

i hope ur running e85 or methanol cause those are 160# injectors
if thats the case may have to goto a dual set of injectors , might have a hard time getting a 3.1-3.4l motor to idle on that injector even with methanol

 

Yep, e85. I'm going to try writing some code to either switch between injector sets or activate a 2nd set when it's needed because it'll be nearly impossible to get low speed down with those even with the single fire and open loop idle stuff I did. With one injector driver I'm not quite sure what to do though, may need an external driver for the 2nd set.

 

dual ecm's havwe the first goto minimal pulse width at a predertimied boost of flow level , have the second ecm take over at that point with the large injectors

the 2 ecms could share the ignition,tps,o2 and map/maf , but would need seperate coolant and air temp sensors if u try using 1 air and 1 coolant with 2 ecms the readings will be cut in half

or install 120# injectors and a 2-1 or 3-1 fmu

 

One of our clients is using 1600cc injectors on a 3.8 and it idles fine, although, he is running an LSx AEM standalone modified to work on a 6 cyl.

 

That's good to hear, especially since the price is so good. 1600cc injectors for under $200 can't beat that! BTW did you ever find out if that crank would fit?

 

No, unfortunately. Biz partners dad bought it for himself, right after we listed it. Looks like it might make it's way into an MGB GT.

 

NM- belongs in the DIY-PROM section.

 

BTW I took another look at this and it looks like the crank snapped from over revving the motor. I was way outside the max piston speed for the stroke I have. Stretched the bolts, spun bearings and killed the crank on boost.

 

bore to stroke ratio can bite ya in the end....... most forget to consider it.

 

How high did you rev it??

 

1-2 was at 7500. Probably had an issue with the bolts on that cap too.