maroe624

I got everything back together after lot of hard work. "3.1 v6 transmission rebuild". So I go to start it up and the starter just spins. I replaced the rear main seal while I had it apart. So I jump the starter directly thinking its just stuck or whatnot and I hear a metallic ding. Aww man I think I put the little spacer on the flexplate backwards. I put the flywheel on first then the little spacer then bolts. I'm pretty sure the little spacer goes on first then the flexplate then bolts. I'm so pissed off man. Someone please tell me how bad I messed up and an easy way to fix it besides pulling the engine and trans again.:

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Just drop the trans out, only takes an hr or so.

maroe624

Well I jumped to conclusions like I always do too soon. Turns out I did install everything correctly. I removed my starter and found the S wire touching the bottom starter motor terminal. So I removed and installed again properly but still no go. So I had a spare starter laying around and popped that one in and boom fired right up. Here is an open headers sound clip, timing was still a bit off will upload a better sound clip later on. Now I have to install torque converter to flexplate bolts and fill my trans see how I did on my trans rebuild.

maroe624

Well I was nervous and excited as I poured the ATF in and shifted the trans into reverse, it worked! Next I put it into D and it crept forward . FIlled it up some more and took it for a spin with open headers, was nervous as it revved up then 2nd kicked in, , then 3rd kicked in and I was all smiles. My first 700r4 rebuild was successful and I was very pleased. Gonna get my exhaust together and see if 4th kicks in as I didn't get to go fast enough to see if it kicks in. Pretty sure it will.

3.4 grape

iTrader: (1)

Congrats on the rebuild. That's one thing I never attempted. I stay away from transmissions and rear ends.

maroe624

It's really not that bad once you read the book over 100 times. Just got my exhaust welded and took it out for another spin. 4th gear kicked in and no problems so far. At first glance the 4l60 looks very complicated especially when you see all the parts layed out but honestly it's pretty straight forward. You really need to replace everything though. I replaced everything from bushings to bearings sunshell, clutches you name it. Just glad it worked, I was gonna quit working on cars if it didn't work after all the time and money I spent working late nights on it.

Sierra6

they say you can warp a valve running open headers if it's cold outside. I have no evidence to back this up but I won't be chancing it. So you swapped in a 4l60? I thought a 4l60 was computer controlled? Do you have an aftermarket ecu?

drdave88

iTrader: (3)

4L60 is "basically" the same as the 700R4. 4L60E is different in that it's electronic controlled. GM renamed the 700R4 to the 4L60 in 1990, with some minor changes.

maroe624

From what I have read 4l60 is the same as 700r4 like drdave said. The 4l60e is electronic so you do need an ecu for that one. The two have pretty much all the same parts except for the valve bodys. One electric and the other hydraulic/manual I think is what you would call it. I have a minor issue that has came up with my rebuild. I will be posting in the transmission section. Shifts great through the gears nice and firm. Just sometimes not all the times, there is a hard clunk going into D4. Not all the time just sometimes. May be my surging idle. My tach is not working at the moment so kinda hard to tell. Haven't narrowed it down yet. Will go into further detail in my other post.

Sierra6

so yours is still a 700r4 then.