what distributer would be best with a blaster coil and MSD 6A?
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 827
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From: Tenino, Washington
Car: 89 f-bird and some others
Engine: 3.4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
what distributer would be best with a blaster coil and MSD 6A?
I just got done putting on my new blaster GM coil and I'm waiting for the new plug wires before I put on the ignition control. I also put on a new cap and rotor, but the rest of the distributer is covered with rust and corrosion. I need a new distributer but couldn't seem to find one for a V6 on the MSD site. I haven't tried accel yet, but if anyone knows what distributer to get or has a part # please let me know. I don't know how well stock distributers (or distributer caps) will handle that much more spark or maybe I'm just paranoid.
I could've started the car everytime I replaced a part to see what was really the problem, but I didn't. It was either the O2 sensor or the coil. The old cap and rotor were not helping the situation either. The throttle response seems almost a little sluggish when taking off now, but it might just be in my head.
I could've started the car everytime I replaced a part to see what was really the problem, but I didn't. It was either the O2 sensor or the coil. The old cap and rotor were not helping the situation either. The throttle response seems almost a little sluggish when taking off now, but it might just be in my head.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 598
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From: Permian Basin
Car: 82 Camaro Z28
Engine: LU5 - Crossfire 305
Transmission: 200c - 3 Speed Automatic
i find that hard to believe that there are NO aftermarket distributors for a 60* v6?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
mike (loomdog)
mike (loomdog)
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,461
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From: BFE, MD
Car: 13 Ram 1500/ 78 Formy
Engine: 5.7 / 7.4
Transmission: 6sp / TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.55 posi / 3.23
if you want to go exotic & expensive, get a cam & crank sensor & go DIS. NO distributor at all. that's your only aftermarket/factory option.
otherwise what camaro_hunter_d said.
otherwise what camaro_hunter_d said.
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Believe it! There's nothing else. But, you can rebuild yours. (And chances are, the rusty area you saw doesn't matter.)
1. Holley ignition module, part # 891-103. http://www.holley.com (look under Annihilator ignition accessories). Or, you could get a stock module- but they're both $60. Get the holley one from summitracing.com . Accel also makes one. The same spark module part # for a V8 remote-coil HEI F-body is used for our V6 cars... so if you don't see a V6 module listed, don't worry. I forget the Accel module number; maybe someone remembers? (Or do a search on this V6 forum for it.)
2. New pick-up coil. There's nothing that can be performance about this piece; it senses magnetic pulses, so it's only $12. (edit: Your old one is probably dirty brown in color, and looks like it's falling apart. It's the circular piece with a two wire connector that plugs into the spark module.)
3. Clean up the air gap. Remove the rotor. You'll see six "fingers" spinning around a fixed reluctor. The reluctor has 6 magnets on it. When the fingers line up with the reluctor, a magnetic pulse is "felt" by the pick up coil. Over years, the fingers spread away from the reluctor. By bending them slightly so they're all even with the reluctor, there will be a stronger magnetic pulse to the pick-up coil, which translates to more accurate timing. Use a feeler gauge meant for valve adjusting ($5 at any auto parts store) to set all the gaps evenly. Before you align the gaps, spin the distributor gear. It'll probably spin easily. Align the gaps. Now spin the gear- you'll actually feel the pulses as you turn the gear. (edit: The fingers can be rusty. You might want to use a fine grit sandpaper on the rust at the points where the fingers come near the reluctor magnets... but otherwise, rust won't affect the operation of the distributor.)
4. Replace the o-ring seal with a new one to stop (or prevent) an oil leak. It's a standard "one inch inside diameter" O-ring; any real parts store will have them. In some national parts store chains, look in their metal "hardware drawers", you might find bags of o-rings for cheap.
5. AC/Delco or Accel or etc cap & rotor set.
1. Holley ignition module, part # 891-103. http://www.holley.com (look under Annihilator ignition accessories). Or, you could get a stock module- but they're both $60. Get the holley one from summitracing.com . Accel also makes one. The same spark module part # for a V8 remote-coil HEI F-body is used for our V6 cars... so if you don't see a V6 module listed, don't worry. I forget the Accel module number; maybe someone remembers? (Or do a search on this V6 forum for it.)
2. New pick-up coil. There's nothing that can be performance about this piece; it senses magnetic pulses, so it's only $12. (edit: Your old one is probably dirty brown in color, and looks like it's falling apart. It's the circular piece with a two wire connector that plugs into the spark module.)
3. Clean up the air gap. Remove the rotor. You'll see six "fingers" spinning around a fixed reluctor. The reluctor has 6 magnets on it. When the fingers line up with the reluctor, a magnetic pulse is "felt" by the pick up coil. Over years, the fingers spread away from the reluctor. By bending them slightly so they're all even with the reluctor, there will be a stronger magnetic pulse to the pick-up coil, which translates to more accurate timing. Use a feeler gauge meant for valve adjusting ($5 at any auto parts store) to set all the gaps evenly. Before you align the gaps, spin the distributor gear. It'll probably spin easily. Align the gaps. Now spin the gear- you'll actually feel the pulses as you turn the gear. (edit: The fingers can be rusty. You might want to use a fine grit sandpaper on the rust at the points where the fingers come near the reluctor magnets... but otherwise, rust won't affect the operation of the distributor.)
4. Replace the o-ring seal with a new one to stop (or prevent) an oil leak. It's a standard "one inch inside diameter" O-ring; any real parts store will have them. In some national parts store chains, look in their metal "hardware drawers", you might find bags of o-rings for cheap.
5. AC/Delco or Accel or etc cap & rotor set.
Last edited by TomP; Jan 15, 2002 at 09:32 AM.
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