A friend yesteday gave me some LCA traction bars for my car .I know they prabably help traction , but what else do these do ? It says on the box "helps wheelhop" ...what the hell is that ? lol Im really ignorant when it comes to suspension .

 

wheel hop is when the differential twists against the springs from the torque of turning the wheels... when it reaches a certain point the torque of the suspension pushes harder than the torque of the tires and the differential snaps back to its normal spot, then it repeats... you can feel it really bad with rear leaf springs, its like driving down a washboard dirt road, but you're on smooth pavement spining the tires... I've never felt wheelhop in a thirdgen, but S10's do it really violently.

 

Wayne.
Bounce a basketball.
Imagine that to yor rear tire, under hard acceleration.
Wheel hop.
PS you hear it too, besides reading the left over tire marks on the asphalt.
The chase scene in "Bullit" displays LOTS OF WHEEL HOP
:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: THE MAN, STEVE MCQUEEN! Miss him alot.

 

Heh , Yeah , I've felt wheelhop a few times .Out of all the burnouts I've done, some of some we're real sick ! heh ..It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened ! I thought I was breaking something ! .Then I forgot about it and burned out again later on (no wheelhop that time) I burned out a few more times later on then stopped cus I was scared I was breaking something !

Karl , I have one of the dicast models of the cars he drove !

 

"Gave you"? Wow. The bars for our cars (coil springs) are about $300... unless he gave you the wrong ones, meant for a leaf-spring car.

A boxed rear control arm can also help control wheel hop. You can get an aftermarket set by Lakewood ( mrgasket.com ) from Summit for $80 or you can bring yours to a local welder to have them boxed. Stock design is an open "U" channel, instead of a closed "D" design. The "U" design flexes, the closed design doesn't.

The weld shop would change your

U

into

_
U

The open part of the "U" faces downward, by the way.

 

Hehe, wayne has dynomax muff.

 

I saw a an insert you can buy to for like $20 that you give to the welder to put on. It would reduce the cost of having them welded. Sence you are providing him with a pice of metal that is all ready cut. Most of the cost of having them boxed is the fact that he has to fab the piece.

 

Ok ,I really am ignorant when it does come to suspension guys heh , I don't know if "LCA " brand and Lakewood brand are the same thing , well these are "Lakewood" I matched the part number today in the Summit catalogue .They are the $37.95 ones .I dont know why he didnt want them ?lol .He put them in my trunk when I was at his house .He called me later and told me he put them in there , I was like what ? lol .

 

I do have that spelled wrong huh ? ..I never noticed that lol .

Now Billy , sence you were so nice to point that out to me .Would you please tell me how to change that ? I can't figure it out lol .

 

Ok. LCA Means Lower Control Arm. Lakewook is just another manufacturer of many that make them. Ours are real easy to make, nothing fancy to do.

As was said before aftermarket LCA's are more stable and prevent the axle from jumping around and twisting and having your rear wheels doing the funky chicken. You can also get LCA relocation brackets that LOWER the FRAME mounting point and can even help reduce the "rear end" Drop under hard acceleration. They are however mainly for lowered cars to get the geometry back to where it needs to be for proper alignment.

 

Ok ,I really am ignorant when it does come to suspension guys heh , I don't know if "LCA " brand and Lakewood brand are the same thing , well these are "Lakewood" I matched the part number today in the Summit catalogue .They are the $37.95 ones .I dont know why he didnt want them ?lol .He put them in my trunk when I was at his house .He called me later and told me he put them in there , I was like what ? lol .

 

I told ya i was ignorant about suspension , heh , I dont even know the manufactorers . :silly lol:

 

Thats what everyones here for, to teach everyone else.

 

 

 

hey hunter, i feel kinda stupid since i bought them headers

cuz if your gonna be making a turbo kit.........they'll need to go.............oh well................i prolly keep it N/A and hopefully get the mini-ram

but i learned a cool trick in school today!!!!!!!

you can adjust your own fuel injectors for poundage!!!!!!!

theres a little screw on the top..............you need to break the weld on it..........then you turn that to adjust the poundage.........................prolly be kinda hard to do..........but thats what i learned

 

Well I bought a set of 19 Lbers for 50 bucks. And I am getting ready to send them off to be cleaned/blueprinted.

 

Adjusting this 60* V-6 pressure regulator is not accomplished way. The V-6 design is non-adjustable. It's a spring under the cap & a rubber diaphram.
Honest, it's WAY better to buy a set of LCAs like Wayne got.
By the time you weld the factory arms, the next weakest link are the end caps. Very little metal there for the "high abuse", even if you place a cover cap on the end. And if you remove these suspension pieces, you want to do it only once.
Kinda like a gas tank fuel pump mission.

 

hehe karl, i think you misunderstood............

the way fuel injectors are designed........they are all basically the same.....................the internals are no different from a 15lb to a 24lb.................the way they calibrate them is a little screw on the very top of each injector............after they tune it to a certain poundage.......they weld the screw so you'll have to buy new injectors.............this is what a GM professor told me

 

All right, I'll bite.
Ask him what applications.
I swapped my 1985 Bosch injectors for the 1995 (?) Bosch injectors.
I did not notice any screws.
Ask him to educate me.
To me, the internals make the deal.
Spring pressure.
I've also dealt with 1975 Bosch injector units on my 1975 Opel Sport Wagon.
A Great car.
The car design saved my life
I took this car, three laps at Pocono International Racetrack 95MPH
Drove the wheels off it.

 

Yep, sorry to say, it sounds like he gave you ones for the leaf spring cars, which won't work on our cars. No way there are lift bars (name for coil spring traction bars) for our cars for $38! Too bad...

Do the bars look rectangular, with two U-bolts on 'em, and a rubber snubber at one end? The two u-bolts go onto the leaf springs. (We've got coils...)

[edit] Now, as opposed to Lakewood LCA (lower control arms), THOSE we could use, and they're $89 or so. Aw hell, I'll look it all up...

The traction bars that won't fit our cars at all are #20470 or #20475 or similar.

The "lift bars" (by Lakewood) for our cars is part #21700 (summit LAK-21700), and cost $190. I'll have to look in my at-home catalog for the ones I saw, I think they're made by Chassis Engineering, and they're about $300.

The Lakewood lower control arms meant for our cars is part #20140, for $84. (Summit part # is LAK-20140). That'd be the cheapest & best route, especially since the the lift bars reduce axle clearance for street use- and many of the v8'ers don't even run 'em.

You could also get the Lakewood panhard rod; this is the bar that goes from the upper passenger side of the body to the lower drivers side of the axle. The part # for our cars is #20440 (LAK-20440), and runs $90.

You could have a weld shop box your panhard rod, too. It's the same u-channel design. Oh, and I wouldn't (personally) pay $20 for a set of inserts. You could buy a strip of 1/8" 3" flat stock steel from Home Depot for $7, and cut them yourself.

 

When I ran 15" wheels I made a set of regular leaf spring traction bars work on my Camaro.
What I did was mig weld one of the U bolts that come with the traction bar to the rear shock mount plate and then just put the other one over the lower control arm. Grant it that this put the rubber snubber tight against the control arm but you could definetly feel the car "squat" when I was messing around with it. I took them off b/c I want back to "14 wheels and then they hit the ground.

 

Really? That's cool! Which shock plate are you talking about? Do you mean the lower shock mount on the axle? I guess this put the traction bar sideways?

 

Tom,
I will dig out the digital camera and take a picture of the plate I am talking about tomorrow.

 

My cousin-in-law is real good with welding , hmm maybe I can print off the picture and show it to him and he can help me huh ? ...I got a new color printer and it prints off unbelivable color pictures ! They almost look like regular pics !

 

GOOD GOSH TOM ! Your almost on your 6000 post !!! heh ! ..Tell him what's he's won Johny !
A lifetime membership to www.thirdgen.org !

 

hes' won a NEW KEYBOARD

(ooh..., awe....,background applause)

 

Haha, yeah, right? The old keyboard is probably worn out to hell. (I just got a new system- and a day later, promptly knocked my coffee over onto it... figures!)

I would love to see that pic!

 

Sorry I ran out of time yesterday to take the picture. I miss typed when I put that I welded to the shock mount plate, I really welded it to the rear of the LCA mounting bracket. (I feel like such a Wayne ) Anyway the picture is attatched if you look closely you can still see some of the weld where I had the U bolt mounted. I haven't had time to smooth it out yet.

 

CC, thats way cool , Thanx alot for taking that pic and posting it .Thats what I think Im ganna do with my trac-bars .Get my cousin in law to weld though .