I was doing an oil change today and I was going to put my new rapidfires in as well. I decided to start changing the plugs when i pulled number six to find it covered in oil. The strange thing is that it is only covered on the outhside of the threads. There was no oil where the plug would be in the chamber. The electroded are also turning white.

HELP??? I left my stock plugs in until I consulted you guys

 

Leaking valve covers?...

 

Yup, sounds like valve cover gaskets leaking.

 

Yeah I was gonna say valve covers. It's been happening to me. i just haven't gotten around to fixing sence it's such a small leak.

And the white electrodes are a sign that you are running to lean. If it's just a lite coating it's no big deal. If it is a heavy build you need to adjust your timing NOW, or you will go through plugs about every 1 - 2 months.

 

Same thing with my car # 6 plug has oil on it. Just leaky covers.

 

Actually white to slight grey is good. Means the combustion is burning up everything.

I have white/ pretty clean electrodes on mine when I change them out and I know I am not running lean cause I have an A/F ratio guage.

 

so, i just have to replace the gaskets?

 

Yup. Have fun too, have to yank the upper, and intermediate intakes to do it.

 

CHD,

I didn't explain what I ment well enough. I was refering to having white ash caked all over the plug.

Your are correct though. A light white hazing is a good clean burn.

 

so in others words...i should take it to a shop cuaseim only a beginer

also, is haveing to take about 9 attempts to start the car and having a smell of gas at start up a sign of having a lean mixture?

 

NO buy a chiltons, break out the tools and LEARN.

The smell of gas and refusal to start is RICH condition. Your not getting any spark. Usually you only want to try to crank 2-3 times before letting it sit a little. This helps the gas evaporate a little. Pull the plugs, there gonna need a cleanin. Trust me. Also buy a spark plug gapper. .99 cents usually. gap your plugs to .050. It helps alot.

 

The removal of the upper and intermediate intakes is a breeze(I think it is anyway) take off the throttle body, the EGR tube, the vacuum hoses on the back, the A?C bracket that connects to the top manifold. 8 10MM bolts on the top. The A/C bracket has 2 13MM bolts under the 10MM. off comes the top. Intermediate is a little trickier. I THINK you can leave the injectors in. NOT POSITIVE. I forget I did mine a long time ago... But if you have to pull them 2 13-14MM bolts hold the fuel rail down. wedge the injectors out of the lower intake. should be 6? 10MM bolts holding the intermediate on. after that you have 6 10MM bolts PER VAVLE COVER. reinstall with new gaskets and your done. Should take about 1-2 hours taking your time. I replaced my injectors in about 40 minutes, after I got the "new" ones...

 

just bought rapidfires which is why i noticed the oil...I have a gapper and was going to gap it at .035, so I should gap it at .050? I tought the maximum was .045, which is what the haynes also shows?

 

You should stick at 0.045" if you have the factory coil. If you have an aftermarket coil, you could use a larger gap. But, I thought RapidFires were pre-gapped?

I saw something at Pep Boys a long time (a few years?) ago; it was in the gasket section. It was a spray that would supposedly stop a valve cover gasket leak. Make sure the leak isn't coming from your distributor seal...

 

Rapid Fires along with just about all plugs are pregapped... just double check them to make sure they didn't get damaged in shipping.

Don't take your car to a shop to have a gasket replaced. Removing the intake on a 2.8/3.1 is even easier than CHD says above... the only bad part is dealing with the gas when you disconnect the fuel lines fromt he fuel rail. I'd also suggest you get a 16mm flare nut wrench from Sears, if not dealing witht he fuel fittings can be a PITA. I had such great luck a previous owner already mangled the fuel fittings on my car before I got it. Also don't bother removing the throttle body from the plenum. Its an unnecessary step, the TB isn't going to go anywhere if you leave it attached to the plenum.

 

Why disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail? Just unbolt the rail, unbolt the clips holding the metal fuel lines to the car (don't lose those f'ing screws), unscrew the line for the cold-start-injector ('85-'89 only), pry the rail out of the intake manifold, and swing the rail to the side. There's enough rubber hose to get the rail out of your way. Just remember; gas will come out of the opened port for the cold-start-injector. And, make sure you don't cross-thread the cold-start-injector tube when you put it back on the rail.

Don't lose the Geez clips that hold the throttle linkage to the TB. (When they fly across the garage- oh, Geez!)

 

On the 3.1 you'd have to remove at least the a/c compressor to leave the fuel rail attached... In the pic note that the fuel lines snake behind the a/c compressor down to the front of the engine above the water pump, then back to the fuel block on the fuel rail.

 

I put the rapidfires in, still rich, they were pre-gapped at .045, but I gapped them at .050.

I bought, today:

Accel Direct Fit GM Coil
Borg Warner Cap & Rotor
Bosch O2 Sensor
Purolator PCV Valve
Timing Light
K&N Recharger kit (I pulled my K&Ns from bone yard, no telling when last cleaning was)
(And some Sand Paper...For a firebird radio pod swap, i am working on)

After I finish installing all that, Ill replace the gaskets, finish my exhuast, get car running right again, then back to work on cosmetics

My car is still hard to start, but after installing the coil, i hope that will fix it...

btw - where did the intake setup come from?

 

I have factory coil and .050 gap runs just fine ...

 

my car runs fine with .050, just starting thats the problem. THere is just too much gas in there, after i get it started it revs up to 1700 rpm just to burn off what is in the cylender's. A lot of that is though it takes a lot of cranks to get it started, but i usually wait after a couple. After i put the rapidfires in, it only takes about four cranks, getting closer....

 

if i can do it, anybody can

 

Purolator PCV Valve


Not a good idea... I have it on good authority that when replacing a PCV valve you should get a delco pcv valve from the dealer. The reason is that the car is designed for the PCV valve to open/close at a specific pressure, aftermarket pcv valves are relatively generic and may not function correctly which could cause a problem. Its minor enough that theres no reason to risk it.

 

what does a pcv valve from the dealer cost? It would have to be worth it cuase the nearest dealer that sells parts is a 45 minute drive, i dont feel like driving that far for a two dollare peice, that just doesn't make sense...

 

Yep, same on my car. I'd rather move the a/c compressor than crack a fuel line open.

And as for the Purolator PCV valve (PV892, right?), I've run 'em since '94, a new one every YEAR, and they've never caused problems.

 

Just passing on info that has been mentioned on at least one car show, in two magazines, and from a mechanic I know. It might be wrong, but for something that costs virtually nothing, I don't see any reason to not get it from the dealership.

If you live hell and gone from a dealer, wait till you're in the area and drop in and pick one up.

 

the thing is, that I have already bught the puralator, and i really appreciate your input drew, ill try the dealership next year, and since i allready own one, ill use my puralator now, hey if TomP sys its OK, Its ok...

 

"Oil deposits: oily coating caused by poor oil control. oil is leaking past worn valve guides, or piston rings into the combustion chamber.
it will cause: hard starting, missfiring, and hesitation.
repair and install new plugs"

 

read closly...NOT in combustion chamber...