mine is stuck on, its stuck in the pulling down gear and it wont shut off, i had to unplug it and im not sure whats wrong, thanks for any help

 

If you search the tech board, you'll find out what's wrong; basically, you need to get a new pull down unit.

 

Aw hell, okay, the hatch pull down motor suffers from two bad designs. Sounds like yours died from the "first" problem.

1. The metal gear of the motor drives a plastic gear. Over time, the metal gear will strip the plastic gear, and then the motor spins and spins and spins itself into oblivion.

2. The plastic casing of the hatch pull-down unit will crack in half. This causes the whole piece to mis-align, and the motor spins itself into oblivion.

You can replace it with another 86-up hatch pull-down motor, or, you can replace it with an 82-85 "manual" hatch latch. Both will work. If you're replacing your pulldown with a junkyard pulldown (GM is $300), scribe lines around the pull-down unit, so you make a mark in the body somehow. This will help you align the junkyard pull-down unit the first time. If you don't align it properly, three things can happen:

1. You could get it perfect (unlikely).
2. You could put it in too high, causing a leak when it rains
3. You could put it in too low, overstressing the unit, and cause it to break again.

 

Check out Topdownsolutions@yahoo.com, they have a number of parts for the pulldown assembly. If it is the plastic gear nut, they have it.............

 

wow i just put in a new pull down unit for my 91
after playing with it for some time i sort of got it working

only when it's olny half way downthe "NEW" motor sounds like it's about to die???

and when i use the key to open it up the lock releases B4 the lift is even up?????

how was it supposed to work in the first place?????

 

Nextgen resource sells the entire motor new for $90. That's were I got mine.

JD

 

Wow, $90's a good deal!

The lock should release before the pull-down motor is all the way up. The motor needs to raise all the way so the hatch can engage it when you close the window.

But if it sounds like it's about to die, you might have it adjusted "too low" on the mounting bolts.

 

Nevermind the fact they have a VERY BAD rep on this board... Go check out the vendor review board...

 

you can get the whole pulldown assembly from gmpartsdirect.com
for about $50 bucks you just need the part#(16608837)for my 89 formula

same unit the dealers sell for 300/400 bucks check em out!!

the only problem with the site is that you need the part numbers to find what you are looking for.i just call the local dealer for price and PN then go to this site and have never been disappointed.

 

yup that must be it, TomP hit it dead square, thats exzacley what its doin, thanks alot for all the help fellas i really appreciate it!!

 

$46.85 sweet.

I screwed mine up one night I got frozen out of my car. Broke the passanger door handel and the hatch motor.

The hatch motor has 4 bolts sO i moved it down so it was only bolted on with two but it was down far enough that it works like a manual lock.

 

I didn't know about NextGen bad rep, sorry. Those guys are x-pensive as h*ll, but I got my part quick and didn't know of any other alternative. What's the gripe with them anyway? I just think that having as many options for parts sourcing is a good idea, "knowledge is power, baby!" Wow, I just had an appifany, that would be a great slogan for this board. Thoughts?

JD

 

[ CEDOE]



anyone know the part number for the tank fuel pump n filter at gmpartsdirect

 

there have been alot of people here that have spent alot of money on parts to either never get them... of have them arrived broken... go to the Vendor boards and look at the threads there. Theres plenty of people here that have gotten ripped...

 

call the dealer...

 

I don't know the order #'s, but the part #s are

Pump = EP240
Strainer = TS4

I'll see if I can hold a flashlight up to my microfiche set at home and get the order #s for you. I should really bring those to a library and print them all out!

 

[Tom P ]

hey thanks

that info would help.

 

I feel like I should be wearing some kind of chemical suit to wade thru all the misinformation in this thread...

First, WTH is Nextgen Resource? Last I checked there was Thirdgen Resource and Next Generation (ie Year One). Since Year One charges more then the dealerships for the same parts I'm going to assume you're talking about Thirdgen Resource. Thirdgen Resource sells primarily used parts unless specified otherwise. As for their problems.... I think some buyers were being extremely picky and I think the guys were going thru some growing pains...

Second... From everything I've heard the 82-85 manual latch, 86-91.5, and 91.5-92 pulldowns don't share the same mounts and can't be interchanged.

Also, each of the above designs uses specific parts on the decklid. If you were to switch from one to the other you'd probably want to get the decklid off the donor car also.

And... both pulldown designs release the hatch first then they run up, when using the key. However, the 91.5-92 design when activated by the hatch release, runs up, then releases. With strong hatch supports the hatch will actually open all the way on its own.

Anyway... lonsal sells all the typical parts that break or wear for the hatch pulldowns. There are literally hundreds of threads relating to the hatch pulldowns, so I'm done. If you can't find information on how to fix your problem you're a) not looking in the right place or b) you arent looking hard enough.

 

Ok, to clear up any confusion I may hav caused on my part, I was refering to NextGen (Year One) as a parts source. And thank you for clearing up all the misinformation Drew. I may have misinderstood your post intentions, but that sounded a little crass to me.

JD

 

I always come off that way... Don't sweat it, I just don't sugarcoat my posts... I didn't mean to sound like you or anyone else in this thread is an idiot. I just wanted to point out that small mistakes can lead a conversation in a completely different direction from where it should be. When I see misinformation I correct it... Don't take it personally.

Ok, I'm pretty sure that covers my ***.

 

Right on Drew, I apprecieate someone like you and your candor. I'm not too big of a man to admit when i'm wrong or ignorant on a subject, and it's a good thing when knowledge is shared. I'm just kind of jaded, historically speaking, of other posts i've seen where certian people go back and forth, "you're wrong...no, you're wrong, blah ,blah, blah". As a veteran poster, i'm sure you know how it goes. Just keep in mind how sometime words may be misinterpreted.

Lates,
JD

 

Oh, one more thing, why the hell would GM make a part like this out of plastic? Oh, that's right...RETAIL I once herd that if one was to purchase every single part required to assembe a vehicle through a dealer, it would cost in excess of $250,000! don't know the validity of that statement (get off me, Drew ) but it sounded just insane enough to be true.


Keep the rubber side down,
JD

 

Well, here's a half-argument for ya! (I didn't know that they changed the pull downs in 91.5 - 92!) The 82-85 manual latch should bolt up. My parts car was an '84, and I had that thing stripped just for shts and giggles, looked like it would bolt up. And my girlfriend's old '87 Camaro had a manual latch put in when the pulldown motor broke. (I wasn't around back then to get a pulldown out of a junkyard for her, haha!) I should have her get that hatch open so I can take a look, but it's her dad's now, and I don't know if he'd be thrilled if I started pulling panels out!

The shop that did it kind of messed up, though. They gave her a third key! They didn't swap over the key locks. So one key is for the doors, one for ignition, and one beat-up key for the hatch.