Where is the EGR Valve located??? We're still troubleshooting

 

get a manual. If you can't pick it out from other things under the hood you have other problems...

 

It will be coming off the pasenger side exuahst manifold. it will kinda look like a UFO with a vaccum line comming off of it.

 

Not to be mean but :sillylol: Ok serously now. Go to a parts house and get a Chiltons manual, they are like 20 bucks. Even though its not the best manual it will greatly help you out on identifying parts and learning how to take them apart and do the reverse steps to install

 

I cannot see how a malfunctioning EGR system would cause a backfire.

 

Camaro Hunter D
It could not be better said.
I know of a house (Hollywood Hills, San Fernanado side, off Mullholland Drive, overlooks Universal Studios) that looks like that EGR Valve.
But that house has an elevator car to take the owners to the front door.
It has survived every earthquake!
Doubt the egr valve is causing the BF
BS yes
BF no.

 

I have been chasing a backfire for a freaking year.

We have been through everything on the car. Timing, wires, coil, cap, rotor, vacuum lines, egr, exhaust leaks, backpressure checks, injectors, idle control valve, fuel filter, and pump....etc. The computer was the last thing we changed.

Basically everything on the car that you can check/change. The dealership can't even track it down. It has no codes, but will backfire and hesitate. It happens the lighter you are on the gas.

Also noticed my 1/4 mile time was really beyond sorry. 18.9.
Ok 2.8s are slow, but dear ***. The worst thing is I have modded the car, it should run better than that. It has cold air induction, flowmaster exhaust, high flow cat, MSD coil, descreened the MAFS, and the engine was rebuilt a year and a half ago.

I think someone put it together wrong, but the dealership will not worked with me on it.

 

if your intake is really curvy put the screen BACK IN. It helps straighten out the airflow.

 

EGR it highly unlikely to cause a BF. But if he has no clue what the EGR is, but he has a turbo w/intercooler?....

UH HUH.. But thats another topic...


Back fire is mainly cause by timing. or maybe MAYBE a hung/sticking/bent valve. I have seen that... ONCE. but the car also refused to run past 2 minutes... If this thing runs but then back fires... you have a restricted exhaust(clogged cat, severly dented tubes) REALLY BAD plugs/car/rotor with so much carbon you can filter the salt out of the Atlantic Ocean.

By the way what is your timing set at. Base? advance? EST hooked up?....

 

Backfired before the screen came out.

Here's the intake:

 

Dammmmn, that's one clean engine compartment. I like the nylon hose covers for the rad and overflow tank; nice touch.

Did you rebuild the distributor?

Did you check fuel pressure?

Did you check for clogged injectors?

Did you examine the balancer ring to see if the timing mark really lines up with 0 when the #1 cylinder is at TDC?

(I assume you know that on the 2.8/3.1, #1 is the frontmost PASSENGER side cylinder, and NOT the driver's side.)

Is the fuel regulator okay?

 

Thanks for the compliments on my compartment. I have to work had to keep it up.

We have a reason to suspect a internal issues because of the mechanic who rebuilt it. We found out he was shody after the engine had to be rebuilt again.

We believe the heads might even be the wrong ones. (loss of power)

The injectors are only 2 years old, but you never know. I plan to check the fuel pressure again. The car is not behaving as if the regulator is going, but I will check it out as well.

As far as the distributer, the dealership said they believe its fine. The car seems to be firing evenly.

We did check the balancer ring to verify the timing mark and all is well.

I let you know if the fuel pressure check comes up with anything.

Thanks for the help!
Shannon

 

Hm. Who rebuilt the motor the second time?

If it's the same shop, I wonder if they ruined the cam. A lifter takes a set to a cam lobe, and if they removed all the lifters, threw them in a bag, and then put them back in the motor at random... the cam lobes could've been wiped out.

I wonder too if they didn't install the timing chain "straight up". If they didn't align the dot on the cam sprocket with the dot on the crank gear, then the valve timing is all screwed up.

I wonder if a compression test would show this?

 

That's what we were thinking. I didn't drive the car much between the rebuilds, but as for how it all went down...
Try to keep it as brief as possible.

First had the temp sensor die. Car overheated and blew a headgasket. Took it to an ex-friend Jim. He said I blew both sides and cracked both heads. Took him 9 mo. to get the car back to me. He said he got the replacement heads from a junkyard and had them machined. He also replaced my timing chain.

Well, what you want to bet he went and asked for 2.8 heads without being specific. So that means it could have come from an S10 or any number of other 2.8s. 1st suspect.

Now when I got the car back from him. After we fought over how long it took. I went to work and a few days later on the way back from work. I heard the infamous clunking. I was a mile from the dealership, so I took it there. I drove up and they ran out with hands in the air, yelling for me to shut it down. The bottom end went.

Now the verdict was... a piece of gasket clogged an oil bearing and that caused it to spin a rod. So Glenn replaced SOME of the rods and bearings and put in a new crankshaft.

A year goes by. The car seems ok, except for exhust leaks out the yang. And a few minor things that I can't think of at teh moment. Then the injectors begin to leak. Same guy, Glenn, works on it. At the same time, the transmission is having issues in OD. It goes and I get it replaced. On the way home from the transmission shop. Theres the clunking again. I go back to the dealership. They take it no questions asked. A new guy works on it and tells me the other guy was fired for all his cars coming back w/o being properly fixed.

Brent says the car spun another rod and needed another crankshaft. The dealership fixed it free of charge, but i never found out the particulars of why it happened again.

6 months ago the car had an engine fire because Glenn did not put the the proper O rings (2 smaller one instead of one in the correct size) in the fuel rail, and it finally leaked fuel. Amazingly we got to it before it did much more than melt a vacuum line or 2.

Well there's the big stuff. So yes I suspect the same happened as you suggested.

 

hey red,
dont ya think the filter is sucking hot air from the place wheere you got it at right now... tats so close to the fan...

 

Well I have ducting that routes cold air towards the filter. The lower part of the filter is actually stunk down into the ducting. You are only seeing the top 1/3 of the filter.

 

If the timing chain is installed, wrong, it will not run.
The timing chain/engine starting/running, it can only be, one way.
I got free labor on a timing chain install, by paid mechainc doing job that way-wrong!

 

HEHE I always considered timing chains to be kinda an idiot proof install. You can only put the cam gear on 1 way. Then once thats on, line up the 2 dots?... but hell not everyone can read directions I quess......