OK, what's the secret to removing the headlight switch? What all do I have to take apart, and get the **** off? Thanks.

 

If you take the cluster out, you'll notice an opening in the plastic recess right next to the light switch. on top of the switch is a small button. This has to be presseed while pulling the **** out.
The other option is to have freakishly small hands and reach up under the dash and press the button. It's also been suggested that there is acces to this button by taking the dash pad off. Weather that's true or not, I don't know, I've never taken mine off to check.

 

I just replaced my girlfriend's headlight switch (89 IROC Camaro).

Before servicing you should disconnect your negative battery cable to prevent accidental shorts.

I followed the Haynes manual/Chilton Manual advice and removed the dash mat (4 screws on top 7 on bottom) and the left speaker (2 screws on top 2 on bottom). I don't think I needed to do this to get to the switch. You may but it's easy.

It, as was suggested, is much easier to get to and replace if you remove the instument cluster.

To remove the cluster: remove the instrument panel bezel (8 screws with a star head) The book says that you should remove the steering wheel and forward part of the steering column to get better access. I left mine on and just maneuvered things around it. Next the book says that there are two mounting screws on top and two mounting Nuts on the bottom holding the cluster on. Mine just had the two nuts on the bottom. You can now pull the cluster straight out about an inch. You need to diconnect the peedometer cable. You need to remove the under dash cover, if there is one, to see the speedometer cable going into the back of the instrument cluster. You need to reach under the dash behind the cluster to push down the retaining clip to release the speedometer cable. Then, the cable will slide right out. Then the cluster can be taken out which exposes a hole on the right side of the headlight switch.

To remove the headlight switch: First you have to pull off the switch **** and shaft. As was suggestted there is a spring loaded button on one side of the headlight switch. His was on the top but it's usually on the bottom. Press the button in (kinda hard) and gently pull out the **** and shaft. Since your battery is disconnected your headlights shouldn't come on. Then remove the little panel in front of the headlight switch (4 screws but on my car it was just the upper left and lower right screws. Let panel hang by the cable its connected to. The only thing holding the headlight switch in place is the plastic piece that the **** shaft goes through. You might be able to hand unscrew it or use a large flat blade screwdriver. After this is unscrewed the switch will be free to be pushed through the hole exposed when the instrument panel was removed. There is a giant connector on the switch which can be easily pried off.

Installation is the reverse of removal.

Color codes (I think)
Red: should be 12V always (when battery is connected).

Yellow: When Headlight switch is pulled all the way out 12V will go from here to the headlight dimmer switch in the steering column and then to the headlights.

Black: Ground always

Other wires are for the parking lights, dome light, etc.

Hope this helps.

 

I've had the dash pad off, and there is a solid bulkhead below the left speaker. No access to the cluster, no way.

To remove my inst cluster it was necessary to drop the steering column, but that was easy, 2 bolts under the dash. As far as removing the speedo cable, IMPOSSIBLE to reach from either the top OR from the bottom, too much crap, wires, brackets, etc in the way. IMPOSSIBLE. Thank *** there was enough slack to pull the cluster out a few inches then get my hand back behind there to release the retaining clip.

Thanks for the info on getting the switch out, the dash light dimmer is getting kind of ragged.

Thanks!!

 

My problem is similar. I have a '91 Z28 and my light switch actually popped inside the dash when I went to turn my lights off so there was nothing holding the switch when I pushed the **** in...so the lights stayed on. This happened last night and I didn't feel like messing with it in the dark so I just disconnected the battery. But, anyway today using both my Haynes & Chilton books plus you guys all that I managed to do was Mickey Mouse the damn thing by wedging some hard foam between the switch and part of the dashboard so I could at least get the lights turned off. And...it's not like I can't get the dash apart. A few years ago I replaced the heater core on this car. That was a two-day job and ever since then I just don't like screwing around with the dashboard. But...all of the above info was very helpful. The car is black and in my household we call it the coffin because as long as I can keep the thing running I will be buried in it.

 

Forgot to mention that on my '91 Z28 the headlight switch **** has to be disconnected from the switch in order to remove the black bezel from the instrument panel cluster. And, because it came loose from the dashboard, it is just floating around inside the dashboard. This is like a "Catch 22" situation. The instrument panel cluster isn't coming off until the bezel is removed first and that ain't coming off until the light switch **** is removed. Like I mentioned in the last post I did a "Mickey Mouse" solution by wedging a piece of hardened sponge material between the switch and a metal bulkhead that seems to be part of the firewall.

 

Gets guy just bought a 89 trans am gta and noticed that orange wire and black wires to the headlight switch are melted does anyone no what the problem could be????????