Well, I was planning on swapping a L98 in place of my LO3, but in the past week I've changed my mind and now I want to do a LT1 swap instead. I just got to thinking that an LT1 would be so much better and the fact that I could actually find some with low miles and in excellent condition with a relatively low price, swayed my decision. I'm still in the gray about some aspects of the swap though. My dad found a '97 LT1 that I could consider buying, but just need a few questions answered:

1. Can I use any year LT1 from an F-body car? I ask simply because the newer I could get the better it would be.

2. Correct me if I'm wrong ---> From what I've researched I know I can use my stock 700R-4, but should I use the computer from a '93 LT-1 because it uses basically the same tranny?

3. What is the easiest and best way to do the wiring? I'm guessing a Painless kit or something similar would be best, but this is strictly from what I've read so far.

4. What books do I need to make the swap simpler?

5. Is there anyway to keep VATS after doing the swap? I ask simply because the system works, or at least it has for me. If not for VATS, my car would have been stolen twice already.

Thanks for the info. I'm sure I'll run into more questions that will need answering as I do more research, but I know you guys will make this easier for me.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=84423

 

Why is everyone so quick to point to a different post??? I am also in the middle of an LT1 swap and by no means is the above post all-inclusive. The guy has legit questions and is also a junior member. Cut him a break and just answer his question!!!!!

ratedrookie: To answer your q's.......

1)Yes. Any year from 93-97...its all the same block

2) No. You have to have a 93 ecu(gm part #16159278) for your 700r4 tranny. I am not sure if this ecu came in any other models though. I got mine from a junk yard out of a 93 camaro for $25.

3) Painless. $352 from jegs (part # 764-60501)

4) I didnt use any books. When I get stuck I just come to this board and many HELPFUL people step up to the plate and help me out. Other than that I would suggest maybe a chiltons or somthing....

5) Yes. You can keep your VATS by using a VATS module from jegs (part # 764-64024)

I hope I made things easier on you.

 

1. yes, all LT1 blocks are the same, but the '95 LT1 is the best because it was the last year of OBDI, if you get a '96 or '97 its going to be OBDII, much harder to mod.

2. wouldnt know about the tranny

3. I combined the two wiring harness, took some time, but it wasnt all that hard and I came out with money to spend elsewhere.

4. any wiring diagrams you can find will help. thats about the only books you need

5. yes, you can keep VATS, just get a new module from GM and rewire the connector for that year. mine worked perfectly for a few months, but then all of a sudden it quit, I think because of a loose wire somewhere.

this swap isnt easy, but its not all that hard either. if you have some experience you could probably get it done within a week. I could only work on it at night and on the weekends, and not knowing about the VATS caused us more time and grief, so it took me about 5 weeks to do it, but we were taking our time and not in a rush. it was absolutely the best thing I could've done for my car, I completely love it. sure its been a pain in the *** sometimes and things have gone wrong, but its sure as h*ll been worth it.

 

1. correction, all LT1 blocks are basically the same, F-body blocks are 2-bolt main, Corvette blocks are 4-bolt main. if you can find one, get a Corvette LT1.

 

Hey thanks for all the info.

Rich88gta, I really appreciate you taking the time to answer the questions. I knew that someone would just point me to another thread which is why I specified that I had alread done plenty of research. You're right, the threads are not all-inclusive.

TexasLT1, you say it's possible to use a Corvette LT1. I thought the Vette LT1 was wider so it needed moving of the engine mounts to fit. Anyways, I'm not sure about this...

Also, I know they switched to ODBII in '96, but will it matter if I use a '93 computer?

Thanks for quick responses guys, I really appreciate it...

 

Wont matter in the least.

That is...it will be OBDI

 

The '93 is a bastard year, 22# injectors and plain old speed density batch-fire injection.

Get a '94-'95 and you'll get 24# injectors and sequential-fire injection, as well as the newer-design MAF/MAP combo for *very* accurate fuel delivery.

The only thing the '93 has going for it is it's PROM based instead of flash memory.

 

True but he has a 700r4 tranny. If he wants to keep this tranny he will need to get an ecu from a 93.
Though I really dont know if that ecu will support the sequential-fire-injection. It seems to me that it wont.

That is just a guess, however.

 

Some people like myself actually prefer the 93 motors. No MAF, can use stock tranny, no Throttle Body linkage roblems, have PROMS, Intake is proven to flow more air because crossover tube is in back of motor. I would go with a 93 motor again, but thats just me.

 

Well I thought that I would use a Painless wiring harness with the swap, but now it seems like I can't because I live in California and the kit designed for the '93 ECU and the 700R4/4L60 is not 50-state emissions legal (#60501). However, the kit designed for the 94-95 LT1 is, but you would have to use the 4L60E tranny.

Does anyone know of a wiring harness that IS emissions legal?

I think TPIS makes one, but it runs close to $600. I've heard some people just using the LT1 harness right off the motor. I guess it can be done but I assume that it would really complicate things even further. Now I don't mind if it is harder to do cus I really don't want to spend $600 for a wiring harness and I don't really want to swap in a 4L60E unless I get a motor with the tranny for a bargain.

Thanks for all the quick responses! I really appreciate the help so far...

 

Have your stock harness combined with the lt1 harness. There are alot of places that will do this for 250-400 dollars I had fuel injection specialties do mine for 325) Then use a reprogrammed 6 speed computer and you can use your 700r4.
I have a 94 ecm and stock harness with a 4l60e. I modded it and then had ed wright reflash the pcm and I passed the im240 roller test no problem.
Hope this helps.
Kory

 

Who told you that the wiring harness is not emmissions legal???
How could a piece of wire possibly mess with the amount of junk that comes out of your tailpipe?(As long as its the same gauge and has the same connector whats the difference from stock??)
Well I also live in california. I know for a fact that during the "under the hood" portion of the inspection the wiring is very seldomly even looked at. Unless it is sticking up and and burnt through in places. But then it becomes a safty issue.
IMO you have nothing to worry about with a 93 harness.

 

rich88gta,

Yeah, I was caught by surprise too when I found out the painless kit isn't smog legal. As for who told me, I got it off Painless' web-site. Here's the url, scroll about 3/4 of the way down and #60501 is the only one that supposedly isn't emissions legal:

http://www.painlesswiring.com/fikey.htm

It has all the provisions for egr, but not emissions. I don't know why they made it that way.

As for the under hood inspection, I don't know what to say. I know it usually gets passed up, but I'd hate to do the entire swap and have it fail emissions for some dumba** reason. Better safe than sorry...

 

I am thinking all you have to do is wire up the smog pump. I could be wrong though. It might be cheaper to just find a factory harness for it. Like at a junkyard or something......wierd

 

Ok I've been trying to figure out what the deal is with the exhaust. I've read that you can use aftermarket 3rd gen headers with LT1 such as SLP's, but what about the y-pipes??? I don't know if it causes any problems.

Also, I'm not sure about this, but don't TPI engines have just 1 O2 sensor while LT1 has 2 O2 sensors??? If so, how do you get around this potential problem when selecting headers for the LT1 swap???

Hope you guys can come through for me again...

 

Slp headers and y pipes fit. I have them on my car. You have to have an extra 02 bung welded into either the oposite header or the y pipe. Be careful of the location. don't just weld it into the same place as the drivers side header, the o2 will hit the starter when installed. I welded mine into my y pipe.
Hope this helps.
Kory

 

Check the Painless site a little closer. I believe they sell addition wiring kits for the emissions. I am not 100% sure, but I could swear that was the case. You might want to give them a shout.

Mark

 

Mark, thanks for the info, but I think I know what you're talking about. I was searching their site and came up with this link:

http://www.painlessperformance.com/fiacc.htm

Problem is they don't currently offer an emissions kit for the LT1 harness #60501. Although it does have a "NEW" stamp on it, perhaps they will make one soon? I'm not sure if you can use the emissions kits designed for TPI with LT1???

Anyways, I've sent them an e-mail and I'll fill in those that are interested on what they have to say...

 

Well, painless didn't have much to say about the LT1 harness and emissions. Here's the exact e-mail I got from them:

We do not support the smog equipment with that harness. Contact CCS @ 512-828-0227.

I guess there really isn't much more to say than that.

I also got an e-mail from Fuel Injection Specialties and they provide a full emissions harness for the '93 computer for $495 plus $150 for a no VATS eprom. Finding a '93 computer from a salvage yard won't be too hard or costly I think.

BTW, is there an advantage to simply shelling out a few extra hundred dollars and getting a LT1 w/4L60E??? I've just been thinking about it and basically there really isn't much difference in price when it comes to buying the engine alone or buying it with the tranny. Actually, most of the f-body salvage yards I've looked up sell them this way. Maybe I won't keep the 700R4 after all. I don't know, still trying to decide...

 

Might have some problems with a 4L60E and a 93 ECM.

I think in 93 they came with 4L60 trannies which is pretty close to the same as a 700R4. Not completely sure though.

 

Actually if I get a complete 94-95 LT1 w/4L60E, I plan on using the corresponding 94-95 ECU. I guess I forgot to mention that in the post

 

I have been thinking of a motor swap for my 89 RS and think the LT1 might be the way to go. Two questions to the people who have done this, 1) How much did it cost total and 2) Someone said on here about F-Body junkyards, where are these and what are there numbers? Thanks.

 

Figure on spending around 4 grand .
You may be able to do it for less but that should cover all expendatures nicely.
It is well worth all the work and money . I love mine.
Kory

 

it really just depends on what kind of deal you can get on the engine or engine/trans. I was able to get a complete '95 LT1 with all acc. and computer/harness for $1500, then figure in about another $1K for all of the other crap. with all of the stuff Ive done now, Id say its cost about $5K total, but thats alot of stuff thats been replaced/rebuilt/added....so it really just depends on what you want to do with the car.

 

That's not bad spending around $4-5K for complete LT1 engine swap with performance parts added to it.

TexasLT1, you basically already have what I plan on doing. I'm planning on adding the LT4 heads, intake, and Hot Cam. How do you like your current set-up so far? I'm guessing it halls major a**. BTW, what tranny are you using and how do you like the engine/trans combo???

I'd like to do the entire motor swap for $4000-5000, then spend about $2000-2500 on suspension mods, and finally finish it off with interior and exterior fix ups. I'm going to try to do everything with $10K. You guys think it's feesible or am I gonna have to break the bank???

 

Does anybody know where I can get a LT! for a decnt price? Seems like no one in South Carlina has one.

 

I would say that 93 would be quite easy to swap, as people know my cars runs in the high 13's with 2.73 gears which is not bad. The wiring harness that comes with the engine is very simple and easy to work with. For example if you would get the painless wiring kit well it would be the exact same thing but the wires would be labelled. Also remember that painless wiring does not have a "starter & cranking wiring" just what makes all the sensors works.

93 LT1's are just the 92-93 corvette technology added to the camaro.

Also since it it as not MAF you save some trouble and it will be easier to fabricate an air-intake setup.

Maybe it has only 22# injectors put if you're thinking about 290-350 hp, it's enough.

 

Mat89RS,

I've read all about your LT1 swap. Great job with the whole thing. But I gotta ask you, did you use the wiring harness right off the LT1 motor or did you buy a kit? From reading your swap posts I got this:

then later said:

What did you end up using and how did it work out for you?

I just got an e-mail from Centechwire.com saying that the best way to go is to buy a 94-95 LT1 w/4L60E because it's the best way to pass emissions testing. That's the third e-mail that's told me this same thing (painless, Centech, Fuel Injection Specialties). Through some research I'm quickly discovering that if you want to do a LT1 swap and need to pass emissions, it's easier to simply go with the 94-95 LT1/4L60E combo. Don't know yet, but it's starting to look like I might go this route.

Mat89RS, yeah a complete 93 would probably be the best, but it's gonna be hard finding one under 100K miles. I'm basing this on the fact that I haven't found one yet that meets this criterea yet. Now I know there probably are plenty around the country, but California law prohibits doing an engine swap with anything but an engine from a car approved for California. This being said I have found several 94-95 LT1's here which is the reason for my thinking.

Still got plenty of time to figure out what to do, but you guys have been very helpful, I really appreciate it!

 

I ended up using the stock harness and figuring out every wire in it, then I matched it up the the old TBI harness and it worked without problem and it was easy to do .

As for the California inspections, I don't know if they do a visual or just a sniff test, if it's a sniff test you could always lower the fuel pressure and have it to run in a lean mode ...

 

Mat89rs,

Did you use any books to help you figure out the wiring or did you get all the info you needed from here? Reading your posts it seems like the fellow thirdgener's really helped you out, but if you used any literature, were they helpful and if so which ones do you recommend?

 

I can definately recommend the hot cam ported heads and headers route. I havent had my car to the track yet, so I don't have a definate et. It should be somewhere in the 12s with traction. Right now it will break the tires loose at a 40 mph roll.
Kory

 

Hopefully you guys can clear this up for me. Is a LT1 off a Vette make for a better fit in our 3rd gens??? I read that the motor mounts off a Vette are better when swapping a LT1 into a 3rd gen becuase you don't have to cut and weld the mount as shown on www.hpsalvage.com. Can you use Vette mounts with a F-body LT1??? Or do you have to use the complete Vette LT1 w/Vette motor mounts??? I guess you wouldn't have to notch the crossmember either if you use a Vette LT1 since the a/c compressor isn't located in the same spot.

I really appreciate all the info you guys have sent my way so far and I hope it's helped others out as well, keep it comin'.

 

I notched the frame and used the stock 3rd gen mounts.
I was going to go with corvette accessories but they were way expensive.
Notching the frame or deleating the a/c is much more cost effective.
The corvette uses a differant compressor if I remember right it was over 500 dollars alone. it also uses differant brackets and a differant harmonic balancer. Unless you buy a vette engine with accessories from the start this in not cost efective.
I Marked the crossmember with chalk. I then heated it with a torch until it was red hot. I beat the dent into it with a big hammer. No welding to the crossmember required. the dent wasn't really that large about the size of half of a softball.
Hope this helps.
Kory

 

I used help from people here, haynes and Chilton . that's it.

 

Figure i'll chip into this one.

We just installed a 1995 Lt1/4L60E into my friend's '89 IROC. We are using DFI for the engine management, and the TCI transmission control unit (TCU) for the tranny (basically, a DFI for the 4L60E). For the radiator, we got a 1995 Z radiator core, but used the stock IROC mounts, brackets, etc.
To get it to sit right (using a fbody block anyway), you have to remove the AC. To make the belt still work, you can buy a $150+ idler pulley kit, or do what we did - we took the AC compressor apart, took out all the fun stuff, and put it back together, leaving basically the shell with the pulley on it, thus making it an idler pulley. Works perfect
We had absolutely no problem with the throttle cable.
A custom air induction was needed, but that's nothing major. We used the stock LT1 elbow, and put a cone filter on it.
4L60E went in with very little problem. Stock crossmember and all. I think we had to modify a cable mount or something - not positive on that.
Stock LT1 manifolds fit great, and we were even able to use the stock Lt1 exhaust, muffler, and tips. We got a 3" y-pipe made (no clearance problem). It sounds very nice.
We have had problems getting it to shift right with the TCU, until we realized it didn't have a vehicle speed sensor hooked up to it. We got that in today (used one off the 700R4, just spliced into TCU wiring harness), and car shifts beautifully.

That's all I can think of. Email me at wolf6t9@swbell.net if you have any questions

 

True Power I used to be stationed in Ft. Riley about 9 months ago. I would like to do this swap but would like to know about what it is going to cost? I mean around about figure.

 

I am using the A/C Delete Pulley from GM, it's only about $45.00.
Bolts to where the A/C compressor was,

 

Ok for those of you that decide to delete the a/c, I got a simple question for you, why? I'm guessing it's for one of three possible reasons: you live somewhere that requires minimal to zero use of an a/c, it's easier to delete the a/c than getting it to fit, or maybe just because it's more cost effective. Living in CA, I don't think I can drive around without an a/c. I'm not in anyway being critical here, but just curious... As for those of you that have kept your a/c and have it working, how well does it work compared to the stock one?

Coop89rs,

I forgot to answer your question about f-body salvage yards, sorry about that, but you just have to search your area. I could tell you to try the phone books, but searching online is much better. Also, if you know anyone that works in a body shop, he/she might have some info for you as well. If you happen to find one close to you, consider yourself lucky. The best one I've been to is about 6-7 hrs drive away from where I live, but I just might buy the LT1 from there. You could also try this web-site:

http://camarosalvage.com

They can find pretty much any part you want, but I don't know about their response time. If you're willing to pay for shipping, there are several places across the country, just do a search in google for camaro salvage or GM salvage or something similar. Hope that helps...

 

i got rid of my a/c because it was heavy and parasitic. In illinois it gets in the high 90's in the summer and fall, and the humidity is usually above 70% all summer long. Even with the weather, i don't see much use for it, even if your car is cold, it feels warm here because of the humidity, you can't get away from it, might as well set cruise at 90 and roll down the windows, feels about the same.

 

I never used my a/c in that car, or rarely in my 94 that had it, usually just windows down stereo up, adds a LOT of room when it comes time to work on the thing, and cleans out some hoses etc

 

What kind of headers are you using?

 

I have SLP part 30005c 1 3/4" single cat non air coated.

 

Rated...I used my original mounts from the 305 carbed motor I pulled out. They fit perfectly. Also, I didn't notch or pound anything out of the way. I just placed the motor in last night to get a test fit and everything clears just fine. This is true for my '94 Vette Lt1 anyway. The only thing I didn't like is that the brake lines off of the combination valve are a little close to the Hooker Headers but thats an easy fix...I'm just going to bend them out of the way a little and cove the parts near the header with that reflective tape. Hope this helps a little.

 

Trans Am #5,

What transmission are you using?

 

I have a T56 6 speed from a 1993 Z28 that I had gone over since I bought it from a junk yard.

I also have a SPOHN offset crossmember for it.

I would have them both in by now but I've been searching for a flywheel for it with no luck yet.

 

Funny thing is about the Vette Lt1 was that I was calling around junk yards looking for an F-body Lt1 complete with out ever even asking about a Vette Lt1 until one of the places told me he had two complete Vette Lt1's. I jumped on it and the guy started explaing to me that these usually sit as not too many people ask about those and automatically ask for the F-body version. Also, I found a lot of Imapala Lt1's. Good luck with your swap.

 

Trans Am #5,

The combo you have would be near perfect, Vette LT1 w/T-56 from F-body. That's what I would like to get my hands on, but it's not gonna be too easy. Do you mind me asking how much you paid for the LT1 and the T-56? At a salvage yard here in Southern California one guy wanted $1800 for the Vette motor, and $2200 for the T-56, ridiculous if you ask me. I think it's much cheaper just getting a complete F-body motor and trans, this is probably the route I will take when the time comes. I don't want to spend over $3K for the whole thing.

 

The motor complete with all accessories was $1000 with approx. 70,000miles on it. The T56 was $650. That had about 100,000 miles on it but I sent it in and got it redone for about $400. Keep checking Ebay although price gouging goes on there quite a bit. Also, the 'For Sale' section over at www.camaroz28.com has had some decent buys lately. It also wouldn't hurt to find a Corvette specific board that also has a for sale section. Good luck.

 

Well, the motor/trans are in and I started the wiring. The motor part was very easy as this was part of the Painless kit. Now comes the matching up of the starter, alternator, a/c and gauge sensors...hopefully I'll be able to fire it up withing a week.