I have a bolt in moser ford 9" in my TA and heres my problem: I bought the car with this rear already installed, but the work wasn't up to snuff so I am redoing the install. The conversion rear appears to have been built for drum brakes only. I have stock rear discs. When the axles are installed, approx 1/16" of the axle bearings protrude from the axle tubes. With a drum backing plate this would be the correct distace for the reatainer plates to hold the bearings in. The stock disc bracket is much thicker, so with the retainer installed, the bearings(axles) slide in and out of the housing about 1/8" .I should also note that the previous owner had to enlarge the hole in the disc brackets so that they would pass over the bearing. I have purchased a new set of disc brackets from a member here, so I can start fresh. My best idea is to machine a 1/16" round clearance relief into the new brackets and use these as my bearing retainer. Just wondered if anyone had encountered this before. Please dont laugh at my lousy picture

 

Never had that problem, I just ordered these disc brakes when I ordered my moser rear from this guy http://quickperformance.com/Brakes.htm , I see he raised his prices-used to only cost $199 then i bought my own raided brake lines....it would've been cheaper to just order the complete kit with brakes lines from this guy at one time.

Still had to grind out the caliper brackets to fit the axle tubes, very simple, just time consuming.

 

thanks for the reply. That looks like a good way to go , I have been trying to make this stock system fit the rear correctly for a while. Do you run an emergency brake? Also looking at your signature, I am putting together a car similar to yours do you have a cage?- thanks, Nat

 

No e brake, added weight and BS for something I'll never use

6 point cage with 10 point conversion before car goes back out, got the bars, just need the time.

 

Yeah I think I will go ahead and put the 10 point in so I dont have to go back in later. you car looks good in the pics .

 

Definately a wise choice, I'm always one to prech about doing it right the first time, but in this case I got ahead of myself. It kinda works for the better though since when I installed the 4th gen dash I did'nt support it enough up by the windsheild the dash pad cracked. i got a new one in the basement and was waiting for engine to blow up so i could get caught up on all the little things I've been wanting to do for the pst 2 years so I hate to regut the interior, but at least now I can fix/modify all the little things that did'nt hold up to well to weekend racing and street driving so when it comes back out it'll be....done????

 

This might help you:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...75079570ofTyeX

I used the 2nd option, and did the same thing you're planning on doing. One thing I recommend doing that I wish I did was cutting a C notch in the brake bracket to make removing it easier. Any machine shop should be able to counterbore the brake brackets real cheap and easy. Hope that helps.

 

IHI and IROCZZ3 thanks for the help. iroc, that drawing you showed me was exactly what I was looking for. I would like to go to an aftermarket brake setup but thats not in the budjet just yet. I had thought of both of those options but it sure makes it easier to see it drawn out with measurements . What gets me is I called Moser and they acted like they did'nt know what I was talking about! Oh well I have my diagram now When I recieve my new non- gouged out caliper brackets I'm off to the machine shop. Thanks again