can't get my trunk open!
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 396
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From: kentucky
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: manual/t56
can't get my trunk open!
Hey guys,
I did a search but I couldn't find a clear answer. I have a 90 gta that I can't open the trunk on. I replaced the hatch motor when the original went bad but now it's stuck in the down position. The key nor the remote switch will release it. I've already mosty destroyed the back panel to get to the stupid thing but I still can't figure out how to get it to let go. I really need some help on this.
I did a search but I couldn't find a clear answer. I have a 90 gta that I can't open the trunk on. I replaced the hatch motor when the original went bad but now it's stuck in the down position. The key nor the remote switch will release it. I've already mosty destroyed the back panel to get to the stupid thing but I still can't figure out how to get it to let go. I really need some help on this.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,760
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From: Cove, Arkansas
Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
Try removing the 3 bolts that hold the pulldown unit onto the body of the car. That way you can have better acces to the unit to see if anything is broken or stuck. Are there any broken cut ground or power wires? ITs possible that the key lock wire to unit thing could be out of its spot on the pull down unit, does the key lock cylinder turn really easy or is there some resistance when turning?
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
It seems strange that both methods would simultaneously become unusable to open the hatch. Has one been non-functional for a while now, and the other method suddenly failed? Is the solenoid clicking at all when you press the switch? The 20 amp fuse for it is located in the #11 slot (third column from the left, third row down). The manual release is a plastic connector attached to the back of the key cylinder. The opposite end of the cable attaches to the same lever that the solenoid actuates. The solenoid release will have to be removed (held on with a single 10mm bolt). Then you'll be able to pop the lever to release the hatch with a large screwdriver. The bad news is I know of no way of getting to the hatch pull-down unit and that solenoid release without destroying the rear plastic hatch piece. You can crawl back into the hatch area and try removing the 4 large plastic screws holding on that panel, then pulling up on it to release the two plastic tabs at the bottom from slots on the body. But the panel will still be held in place by 4 screws at the top as well as the hatch hook. You may be able to bend it up enough to access the solenoid release. Otherwise you'll have to get out a Dremel and cut a hole to expose the hatch pull-down unit. You mentioned that you repaired the motor previously. Did you make sure to attach the plastic connector at the end of the manual release cable to the back of the key lock cylinder?
Rarely I'll forget to attach the solenoid to a hatch pull-down unit I'm testing on my parts car and have to crawl into the hatch to pop it manually. Actually, now that I think about it IF that 10 mm bolt came lose you'll the hatch release solenoid will come free of the hatch pull-down unit. It will cause both the solenoid release and the manual key release to fail at the same time, just as you describe. Now you're kicking yourself for failing to tighten just that one silly bolt enough when you repaired the motor.
Lon
Rarely I'll forget to attach the solenoid to a hatch pull-down unit I'm testing on my parts car and have to crawl into the hatch to pop it manually. Actually, now that I think about it IF that 10 mm bolt came lose you'll the hatch release solenoid will come free of the hatch pull-down unit. It will cause both the solenoid release and the manual key release to fail at the same time, just as you describe. Now you're kicking yourself for failing to tighten just that one silly bolt enough when you repaired the motor.
Lon
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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 396
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From: kentucky
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: manual/t56
All the wiring is fine( connected and undamged) The key has very little to no resistence. The solenoid clicks when the dash switch is pushed but doesn't do anything. I've already destroyed my plastic but I couldn't get it all out of the way. If I can unbolt the bolts that hold the whole unit in place will the hatch come up then? If so then I'll try that tomorrow(I've got 2 of them out and the hatch rattles a bit now) Now that you mention it lon I can't remember if I tighted that stupid bolt or not. Probably not since that describes exactly whats happening. I ended up piecing together two units to get one good one so I could have screwed up there too. I appreciate the info, I'll let you guys know what happens tomorrow.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
It is easier to unbolt the single 10mm bolt and remove the silver colored solenoid. Once you have it set aside you'll see a square shaped hole (see picture attached). Inside that hole is a lever that you need to torate counter-clockwise. That will release the latch. If you decide to remove the 3 bolts holding the hatch pull-down unit mark the location of it in relation to the body using a permanent marker. It will make re-installing it easier later.
Lon Salgren
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Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 396
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From: kentucky
Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: manual/t56
Well I got it! I guess I didn't have that solenoid seated correctly. I got it back together and its working great now. I did notice that the guides were in poor shape so I guess monday I'll giving you a call Lon. Also I might get a reinforced motor housing from you too. The only downside is now i've got to get a new rear panel.
. Anyway I want to thank both of you guys for your help.
. Anyway I want to thank both of you guys for your help. Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Order it today or you'll wait a week. I start vacation Monday. I'll return Saturday. All orders taken online will be processed and shipped when I return.
Lon
Gone fishin'
Lon
Gone fishin'
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Your order info was incomplete. I already e-mailed you the problems with the info you sent me.
Thanks,
Lon Salgren
Thanks,
Lon Salgren
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