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Hurst, B&M, or PRO 5.0 shifter

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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 01:15 PM
  #1  
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From: Weslaco, Texas
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9 305
Transmission: T5
Hurst, B&M, or PRO 5.0 shifter

I sometimes miss my 2nd to 3rd gear shift while in heavy acceleration. I was thinking of getting and aftermarket shifter and would like to see what you all have tried and feel good about recommending, Hurst, B&M, or Pro 5.0, for a T5 tranny.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 01:36 PM
  #2  
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From: I said that when I was sober...ish
Car: 1985 Mustang GT
Engine: hamsters
Transmission: a hamster wheel
I really like the Hurst that I have but most people will recommend the Pro 5.0. Id say go with the 5.0.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 03:39 PM
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
The Pro 5.0 is the manliest shifter out there. No other one compairs. I have driven cars with other aftermarket shifters and they don't even come close. It is thicker, stronger, louder and you can remove the shaft to shorten it or re-thread it or whatever you want. You won't be dissapointed.
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Old Sep 30, 2004 | 11:01 PM
  #4  
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Car: 91 Z28 & 21 Hellcat Challenger
Engine: L98, Hemi 6.2
Pro 5.0. Dont Go with B&M...
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Old Oct 3, 2004 | 10:32 PM
  #5  
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From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
I love my hurst, the only thing i did to it was take an inch off the stock shift stick. I throw that thing around like a nut and its never missed a shift on me and never given me problems. Ive never shifted a Pro 5.0 though.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 08:43 AM
  #6  
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: Firebird
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4, lots of Mods
Hello all,
Will the Pro 5.0 work with a 700R4?
Brad
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 09:14 AM
  #7  
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by bluegoose
Hello all,
Will the Pro 5.0 work with a 700R4?
Brad
um, no.



lol.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 09:43 PM
  #8  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Here is a pic of the stock shifter next to my Pro 5.0. This shifter is unreal.
Attached Thumbnails Hurst, B&M, or PRO 5.0 shifter-mvc-036f.jpg  
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 10:11 PM
  #9  
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well that's kinda cool. I am actually planning to do a tranny rebuild this winter and at some point was going to start looking at shifters.

Would this one be considered short throw? I know some people talk about those. I know what they are, but never actually experienced one. This one looks to be maybe only slightly smaller than stock
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 12:20 AM
  #10  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by VILeninDM


Would this one be considered short throw? I know some people talk about those. I know what they are, but never actually experienced one. This one looks to be maybe only slightly smaller than stock
It may only be slightly smaller in overall height but the throws are amazing shorter. i think they claim 25% shorter. The distance from 1rst to second is literally like 3 to 4 inches in shifter travel now. From neutral to first is like 2 inches. It is kinda wierd at first to drive if you have been driving deep slotted manual gear boxes for any length of time.
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 01:06 AM
  #11  
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well now that I got to talking (asking) about this stuff, might as well learn something.

Besides the picture, how is this unit different from stock or hurst (which I think is only slightly better than stock). Apparently these things are rather pricey. Even on e-bay I think I've seen them usually for around $150 (don't remember if there were actual sellers for that price).

Are they really this good? I bought an entire tranny for 4 times this amount, and without knowing much about these things, it looks like a rod (with a **** of some sort) and a mount that bolts up to the top of the tranny. I know I am missing about $130 bucks worth of information. can you fill me in?
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 07:07 AM
  #12  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by VILeninDM
well now that I got to talking (asking) about this stuff, might as well learn something.

Besides the picture, how is this unit different from stock or hurst (which I think is only slightly better than stock). Apparently these things are rather pricey. Even on e-bay I think I've seen them usually for around $150 (don't remember if there were actual sellers for that price).

Are they really this good? I bought an entire tranny for 4 times this amount, and without knowing much about these things, it looks like a rod (with a **** of some sort) and a mount that bolts up to the top of the tranny. I know I am missing about $130 bucks worth of information. can you fill me in?
I cannot speak for some other shifters but usually the Pro 5.0 and husrt are in a league all of their own. With these shifters not only are your shifts shorter but they are more precises. By that I mean the shifter will hit your next gear everytime. They are spring loaded to help the 2 to 3 shift and the 4 to 5 shift. The stock shifters are sloppy and you can push on it and "hunt and peck" for a gear. No matter how hard you push on the Pro 5.0 it has a precise movement with zero slop. It is basically for all out racing where the chance of a missed or slow shift cannot happen. They also have adjustable stops so that once the car is in gear you cannot push the shifter to far and damage shift forks like you can with the stock shifter. Have you ever powershifted and thought that the shifter was going to rip out of your hand or that prayed you didn't miss the 2 to 3? You won't worry anymore with one of these.
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 06:42 PM
  #13  
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Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone
Here is a pic of the stock shifter next to my Pro 5.0. This shifter is unreal.
Hey Shifty, on the the Pro 5.0 for the T5, is the surface between the stick and the shifter smooth?

If so, I recommend getting the Hurst. I had a Comp Plus and it was sweet.
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 06:52 PM
  #14  
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Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by VILeninDM
Besides the picture, how is this unit different from stock or hurst (which I think is only slightly better than stock).
The design of the aftermarket shifters is going to make the shifts quicker by making the distance between the shifter pivot and the ball to offset rail block (in the trans.) longer. It doesn't take a huge increase in that distance to make a difference.


Apparently these things are rather pricey.
No, they're really not. Keep in mind a few things: If you had to make one and even if you had access to a mill, lathe, and whatever else it took you to make it, you'd end up having to put a hell of a lot of effort into it. Way more hours than what you'd need to work at your real-life job to afford the shifter in the first place.

Also, a shifter with a solid set of shift stops (the ones on the Hurst and 5.0 are adjustable) can help save your synchros from overtravel, which saves the life of the synchro keys, wire springs and other parts. Long-term, they might save you a rebuild, which means the shifter pays for itself.

They're not pricey at all, you just need to understand the economy of the situation.


Are they really this good? I bought an entire tranny for 4 times this amount, and without knowing much about these things, it looks like a rod (with a **** of some sort) and a mount that bolts up to the top of the tranny.

I know I am missing about $130 bucks worth of information. can you fill me in?
Apparently you get better prices on steel, plating processes etc. than we do at my work.

It's not just a stick. It's the whole shifter assy., as seen in Shiftys picture. If you can make that in under 20 hours and then convince me you make 1$ / hour at your job in real-life, then you're the man. Otherwise, your estimate on the "worth" of a good aftermarket shifter for your T5 / T56 ain't even in the ballpark.

Oh, FWIW, I've driven the following: stock f-body T5, stock s-10 T5 (with severely shortened stick,) Hurst Comp-Plus (T5,) Pro 5.0 (T56,) B&M (T5,) and stock T56 off the top of my head.

-Matthew
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 12:41 AM
  #15  
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Hey jmd, you just tought me $130 bucks worth of information. Like I said, I don't mind paying for good stuff and I definitely will pay for performance.

As I said, I knew nothing about this stuff and in the process of ripping apart my post, you gave me a pretty good picture of what I am paying for.

I've been driving regular stick since I was 16, almost never speed shift because I know that's not good for the tranny (in stock form). I can definitely appreciate shorter throws, spring loaded shifts and adjustable stops for those power shifts.

As I've said before on numerous occasions, you guys rock :hail:
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Old Oct 10, 2004 | 08:30 PM
  #16  
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From: IL
Car: 91RS, 91RS
Engine: 305TBI, 3.1MP
Transmission: WCT5, TH700
Go with the 5.0, Hands Down
You just bang, bang, bang, bang, bang
It's unreal how smooth and precise it is, two buddies of mine have them, I've watched them beat the hell out of those shifters, and they never missed a shift.


~Max
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 02:21 PM
  #17  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by jmd
Hey Shifty, on the the Pro 5.0 for the T5, is the surface between the stick and the shifter smooth?

I am not sure what you mean by this. It is pretty smooth but nothing smoother than a clean milled surface. It is not mirror smooth but it does not have any cut marks from dull tooling.
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Old Oct 12, 2004 | 12:48 PM
  #18  
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From: Gig Harbor,WA, USA
Car: 1983 "SS" Camaro, 2000 Mustang GT
Engine: .30 350
Transmission: T-5
i think what he means are there any serrations or grooves on both the shifter lever and the assembly thats mouted to the base plate. On the hurst where the two sectons meet they are grooved so they fit together better and then they have the two bolts that hold them together.

Jered
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 06:08 PM
  #19  
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From: Lawrence, KS
Car: Met. Silver 85 IROC/Sold
Engine: 350 HO Deluxe (350ci/330hp)
Transmission: T-5 (Non-WC)
Axle/Gears: Limited Slip 3.23's
Good grief, says Charlie Brown. Most people recommend what they have, though they've seldom tried other products. Ok, so I'm going with B&M.

JamesC
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Old Oct 13, 2004 | 10:59 PM
  #20  
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Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by 1983SS
i think what he means are there any serrations or grooves on both the shifter lever and the assembly thats mouted to the base plate. On the hurst where the two sectons meet they are grooved so they fit together better and then they have the two bolts that hold them together.

Jered
eggzactly.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 07:45 AM
  #21  
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
I just got the Hurst Billet Plus, but when it arrived from Jegs the mounting surface was damaged (their QC sucks). I could have ground it out, but I hate doing that to a new part. Otherwise the shifter looked like a quality piece. I will let you know my opinion when my new, new one arrives.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 08:26 AM
  #22  
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Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: Juiced 5.0 TBI - 300rwhp
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Eaton Posi, 10 Bolt
JamesC

I have driven 3rdgen F-cars with all three. I have raced in an IROC with a Hurst, and my car with the pro5.0, I made sure to at least use all 3 before i bought them. Trust me, the pro5.0 is hands down the best. You will not get any better than rundown than that. The Hurst is smooth, and is a very nice peice, it is a close second. But the 2-3 shift on the pro5 puts it over the top. Also, the B&M I used was the older style, when it still had the stops, since then the quality and features have gone to ****. The B&M is a very distance third, IMHO.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 08:40 AM
  #23  
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Originally posted by Dewey316
Also, the B&M I used was the older style, when it still had the stops, since then the quality and features have gone to ****. The B&M is a very distance third, IMHO.
You can still get the B&M with the stops, I was surpised when I saw it in Jegs, it notes that only the GM model has the stops. I still wouldn't buy it though.
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 01:15 PM
  #24  
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Put the Hurst Billet Plus in yesterday and it is awesome. I can't comment on the Pro 5.0 because I have never driven one. But commpared to the stocker, which I have regretable been using for the past 6 years, the Hurst is very impressive. Money well spent IMHO.
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 02:19 PM
  #25  
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From: Muskego, WI
Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70
I've had the B&M since 96 and never had any problems. But I've heard the new ones are not as good. That's pretty much what you can say about everything.
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 03:07 PM
  #26  
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
The only thing I don't like about the Hurst is I think it's just a little too tall. IMO anyways. I know I can buy a shorter stick, but I was thinking I might just drill a new hole. Has anyone done this?
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Old Oct 25, 2004 | 06:35 PM
  #27  
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From: Aridzona
Car: `86 SS / `87 SS
Engine: L69 w/ TPI on top / 305 4bbl
Transmission: `95 T56 \ `88 200-4R
Originally posted by 91formulaSS
The only thing I don't like about the Hurst is I think it's just a little too tall. IMO anyways. I know I can buy a shorter stick, but I was thinking I might just drill a new hole. Has anyone done this?
Hurst makes several styles of sticks but I did not feel the need to do that when I had my Comp Plus Hurst. I don't know if rethreading the **** threads further down and chopping some off the top is doable; again never tried.
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 07:57 AM
  #28  
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Originally posted by jmd
I don't know if rethreading the **** threads further down and chopping some off the top is doable; again never tried.
I thought I saw someone on here that cut the bottom hole off, at the botom of the stick and drilled a new top hole, thus shortening the stick about 1". I don't think cutting the top would work because the stick is only round for about the first inch then it tapers out and is more flat. i.e. can't be threaded. Anyways the shifter are incredible and I would recommend the Hurst to anyone.
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 10:45 AM
  #29  
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From: Prince George, BC, Canada
Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 5.7L Supercharged
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 3.70
When I was running a t-5 in the car I bought a B&M for it, wow was I impressed, never missed a power shift once!! Now I have a t-56 so I figure I try out a Pro 5.0 believing in all the hype, don't get me wrong it's a good shifter but I was missing to many shifts with it so I bought a used B&M off a guy. Installed it, and found it to shift better for me so I left it in the car. But one thing I really really hated about the pro 5.0 was the stick is so ugly and it was meant to be covered up, that and on the instructions it was thanking me for buying the pro 5.0 for my mustang The t-5 B&M has a nice aluminum stick that is meant to be shown just like the stock shifter, I thought it looked good in the car!
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 10:20 PM
  #30  
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I have had Pro 5.0 (2 different cars, one a T56 the other a T5), Hurst (T5 and T56), and Kirban (T56), and driven a couple cars with the B&M (though not recently). Hands down ,the Pro 5.0 is the best (I have no idea how a Pro 5.0 could cause missed shifts, unless the stops were adjusted incorrectly), followed by the Kirban. It feels as solid as a pro 5.0, but a little less notchy. I wouldn't use any of the regular hurst shifters on a 5 or 6 speed. B&M is ok, but a distant 3rd to me.
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Old Nov 7, 2004 | 10:41 PM
  #31  
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i use a hurst, i had one on my t5 and now on my tko. the reason i bought the second hurst over the 5.0 is that the hurst has adjustable spring tension to center the stick. with both springs in it is a great drag race shifter but downshifting is difficult ans so is the 4-5. Removing one spring results in good dragracing performance and great downshifting. The pro 5.0 doesn't have that adjustment and since it seems biased towards DR i chose the hurst because i knew i would be able to downshift quickerand more reliably.
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Old Nov 16, 2004 | 02:59 PM
  #32  
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
I have used Hurst and B and M. The Hurst wins though. I like how the nuetral position of the Hurst is 2-3 instead of 1-2 like on the stock shifter. It makes shifting from 2-3 a breeze, simply push up and it springs to it's nuetral position and up to 3'rd.

Hurst's length is maybe a centimeter or two higher than the stock shifter, but the throw is much shorter. Wheras the Pro 5.0 is a shorter length than stock. If that matters to you. One more thing, I love t-grips!
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Old Nov 16, 2004 | 09:53 PM
  #33  
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Well, after listening to some guys here and reading other posts, I went with Pro5.0. Picked it up on ebay from a guy selling off inventory after going out of business.

Tibo, Pro5.0 has the same spring mechanism you are talking about when going from 2-3.
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 01:26 AM
  #34  
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
pro 5.0 is the only way to go
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 02:01 AM
  #35  
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From: Oregon, Roseburg area
Car: 88 camaro
Engine: carby 350
Transmission: t-5 from v6 car
When I had my stocker, I would sometimes pull on the stick 1-2 and the stick would "pop out of the socket". There I would be, in neutral, with the stick laying on the console. I bought the B&M and have been happy. I have never used any others, but the B&M works great. It is nicely sprung to the center (2-3) slot. It does have non adjustable overtravel stops. I think it is awesome when somebody gets into my car, and shifts from 1st to 2nd. I have been called everything from cheater to *******. They are just jealous.

Why does everybody seem to rip on the B&M???
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Old Nov 18, 2004 | 03:31 PM
  #36  
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
well as far as quality goes b&m makes a decent product, but its not as high quality as hurst or pro 5.0 not saying they make a bad shifter, just that there are better ones out there
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Old Dec 22, 2004 | 12:51 AM
  #37  
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From: cali
Car: 84z, 65 elcamino
Engine: l69 and a hyped up sbc in the camino
Transmission: t5 m21
Axle/Gears: 373s 411s
ok where can i get the pro 5.0 shifter. i dont wanna spend more than 150
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Old Dec 22, 2004 | 06:27 PM
  #38  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by jocww
ok where can i get the pro 5.0 shifter. i dont wanna spend more than 150
Jegs, summit, and thunder racing sell them. You will not get a new one for 150 unless thunder racing has another great sale like they did 3 years ago.
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Old Dec 22, 2004 | 07:35 PM
  #39  
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Car: 1986 Camaro SC (Supercool)
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yea I was gonna go with hurst before I came here (knew the name) I ended up with the pro 5.0, and Ive never looked back
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Old Dec 24, 2004 | 04:40 PM
  #40  
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Does anyone have any feedback on if its worth it to go to Pro 5.0 from the stock shifter that is shipped with the Tremec TKO 5-speed transmissions? I imagine the TKO shifter is already a little more bulked up, just curious if anyone has done the switch.
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Old Dec 24, 2004 | 10:13 PM
  #41  
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I went from stock TKO to Hurst, definately worth it. The Stock TKO is better than a stock T5 but not nearly as good asthe Hurst
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Old Dec 25, 2004 | 05:17 PM
  #42  
Skatepunk60's Avatar
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From: Smithfield RI
Car: Hardtop 84' z/95' Cheyenne
Engine: 305 H.O./4.3L
Transmission: 5-speed manual/Auto
Originally posted by 91formulaSS
I thought I saw someone on here that cut the bottom hole off, at the botom of the stick and drilled a new top hole, thus shortening the stick about 1". I don't think cutting the top would work because the stick is only round for about the first inch then it tapers out and is more flat. i.e. can't be threaded. Anyways the shifter are incredible and I would recommend the Hurst to anyone.
I did that to my hurst. I carefully measured the distance btw the holes drilled a new one cut the bottom off and cut the lines into the side. I used some loctite on the bolts and have beat the hell out of it with no fail. Works 10x better i love it.
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Old Dec 31, 2004 | 05:42 AM
  #43  
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From: Silverhill,Al
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
I just put in a Pro 5.0 last week, bought it at ThunderRacing for $179, now it's on sale for $161 , anyway it was a pain to put in as I has to raise up the console to get to the shifter cover screws, but it's a great shifter, has a solid feel to it but it takes a little getting used to, and I don't think the shifter throw is much shorter than stock, at least is really doesn't feel much shorter to me. The instructions are not that great and like someone else said they thanked me for purchasing their Mustang shifter, you would think they could afford to print a seperate instruction sheet for each model shifter they make!!!

Last edited by DartByU; Dec 31, 2004 at 05:47 AM.
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 04:29 PM
  #44  
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From: cali
Car: 84z, 65 elcamino
Engine: l69 and a hyped up sbc in the camino
Transmission: t5 m21
Axle/Gears: 373s 411s
is pro 5.0 better than the long shifter
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 05:02 PM
  #45  
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From: Derbyshire, United Kingdom
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Can someone measure how far the PRO 5 **** travels when shifting from 1st to 2nd?
I just want to find out how "short" the throw is compared to the stock one.

Thanks for any reply.
Andy.
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Old Jan 1, 2005 | 06:32 PM
  #46  
DartByU's Avatar
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From: Silverhill,Al
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
I just went and measured mine (Pro 5.0), measuring with a tape measure from a fixed point I get 4 1/8" of total travel with both 1-2 and 3-4 shift. More than I thought it was, I wish I had measured the stock one but like I said before it doesn't "feel" much different.
Makes me want to go build one at work (I'm a machinist) that has about 2" total travel.
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Old Jan 2, 2005 | 01:08 PM
  #47  
Andy Fanshawe's Avatar
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From: Derbyshire, United Kingdom
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
I have just measured the stock shifter distance to go from 1st to 2nd. It is 5.3" This is measured in a straight line, even though it moves in an arc.
That's a 22% reduction in distance if I use DartByU's measurement of the pro5.
Hmmm! Shall I go for 1 or not? I would also like it a bit shorter.

Thanks for the measurement DartByU.

Andy.
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Old Jan 2, 2005 | 05:43 PM
  #48  
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Car: '90 RS
Engine: 377 LSX
Transmission: Magnum T56
Originally posted by Andy Fanshawe
I would also like it a bit shorter.

You can buy what is called "Lou's short Stick" for the Pro 5.0. It makes the throws even shorter and is $40. An hour on a lathe will occomplish the same thing if you have access to one.
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Old Jan 3, 2005 | 07:20 AM
  #49  
Andy Fanshawe's Avatar
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From: Derbyshire, United Kingdom
Car: 91 camaro rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: T5
Originally posted by ShiftyCapone
You can buy what is called "Lou's short Stick" for the Pro 5.0. It makes the throws even shorter and is $40. An hour on a lathe will occomplish the same thing if you have access to one.
Thanks ShiftyCapone. A nice link. Has anybody got one of these installed on their PRO5?

Andy.
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Old Jan 3, 2005 | 05:23 PM
  #50  
DartByU's Avatar
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From: Silverhill,Al
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-5
If you want the stick a little shorter it looks like the stock stick could be sawed off at least 1" shorter and still have plenty of thread left, I screwed my stock shifter ball back on mine and there is about 1" of thread still showing under it. But I like the height it's at now and don't think I would like it any shorter.
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