First off, i have a 87 TPI 305 w/ automatic.

i want nitrous.

what should i buy and how hard is it to install. my local shop wants $300 to install . is it that hard?

what is the deal with the rpm activator switch?

anyone wonna help a fellow 3rd gen out and sell me a nice kit used?

i have cash.

guys im a complete nitrous newbie so any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED.

ty!

 

Nitrous kits are not hard at all to install. They will take you a while, but their is really nothing to it. The install instructions will show you pretty much every step. Save your money and do it yourself.

An rpm switch will allow you to activate the nitrous at a desired rpm. It’s kind of a safety precaution.

Check the classified ads on this board and ebay. Sometimes their are new kits for sale on ebay that are much cheaper than what you could get from a speed shop.

Their are tons of posts regarding nitrous, just run a search and you will be able to find out just about anything.

 

here are some before and afters on a honda, the top pictures are work that was performed by a person following the instructions, the bottom was the work I did to fix it. It would have cost $300 (including free before and after dyno runs) to have me do it from the outset but it cost him about $400 for me to fix, repair and clean the teflon paste out of the lines, fittings, and selenoids. there was even paste on the flared fittings.

 

he couldnt even closethe hood in the top pictures because the nozzle stuck straight up. dont get carried away with the paste and dont over tighten.

 

wow i dunno what happened but the computer froze as i was postin and did a quadurpal post sorry, if any mods can delete my 4 posts here thanx

 

delete this , sorry

 

delete this

 

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and this proves why all people shouldn't touch things under their hood. but if u are really nervous about it and dont think you will do it right, it's probably better to take it somewhere. it will cost more but then if it's wrong u have somebody to blame and it just works out better. from what i have seen, read and heard about it's not TO difficult but it's like anything else some people should do things and some people shouldn't.

 

Do it yourself. That way if anything goes wrong you'll know how to fix it. Instead of paying someone AGAIN. Trust me, the more work you do yourself (after you do your homework) the better off you'll be. Just take you time and look at more pics of setups on this site.

 

The work was performed by a shop in Greely, Colorado called "Fat & Low". They charged him a few hundred. Care as to any guesses to what kind of shop it is?

 

a domestic shop right... lol jk. yeah... you gotta be weary of were you take things... when anything is done on my car, it goes to one of two places anything else i do. there are people that just dont need to work on cars. but good luck with your NOS and keep us informed.

 

Does this paste harden? When I was asking about teflon tape I was told not to use it with fuel lines as it would dissolve. I was told to screw the fittings dry or with a very small amount of oil.



Sorry to go a little off topic.

 

if you put your fittings in dry they will leak 95% of the time.

Other than the anodized aluminum fittings, the "silver" fittings are usually brass fittings that have been nickel plated so as to make them more pleasant looking. Brass fittings are usually cut with a self sealing "angle" to the NPT side of the threads so that they "self seal". Unfortunately, despite the best intentions of the brass fitting manufacturer, they still leak when installed dry. Add to that the nickel coating is generally uneven around the thread area and you have a good place for a leak. I like the teflon paste and used it to install many nitrous kits at our shop. just remember as I said before that te sealandt only goes on the NPT threaded side of the of a fitting and not the "-AN" threaded side. I like to place just a tiny bit of the liquid PTFE a few threads from the opening on the fitting to avoid contamination.

Do not over tighten, I spent almost as much time fixing broken off, stripped, damaged, and leaking fittings that someone thought they needed to really be wrenched on. These are only brass or aluminum and will break like they are made of plastic if you tweak too hard on them. If you installthem firm and then they leak you can tighten til the leak goes away just a bit sometimes. If you crank them in and they leak all that is left is some damage inducing torque to try to stop the leak.