V6 Discussion and questions about the base carbureted or MPFI V6's and the rare SFI Turbo V6.

Testing OEM replacement coil

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Old Feb 13, 2003 | 10:03 PM
  #1  
Dale's Avatar
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Testing OEM replacement coil

Ok, since car was running like crap, and after replaing ICM and coil, it runs great. So, I am trying to find out which part is bad for warranty reasons.

ICM checked out ok several times on that machine at parts stores, but be all know they can lie.

So, testing coil...
Haynes ( I know they blow, but only book I have that shows how to test) page 5-6.

Test 1, put dvm on 2k, throw on proper terminals, reads like im touching to prongs together.

Test 2, put dvm on 20m, throw on proper terminals, reads like im touching to prongs together.

Test 3, leave dvm on same setting, 20m, throw on proper terminals, reads zilch, nodda. Doesn't move.

So am I correct that test 3, I should get same reading as all others? So this coil is bad right?
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Old Feb 14, 2003 | 09:36 AM
  #2  
RBob's Avatar
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From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Re: Testing OEM replacement coil

Originally posted by Dale
Ok, since car was running like crap, and after replaing ICM and coil, it runs great. So, I am trying to find out which part is bad for warranty reasons.

ICM checked out ok several times on that machine at parts stores, but be all know they can lie.

So, testing coil...
Haynes ( I know they blow, but only book I have that shows how to test) page 5-6.

Test 1, put dvm on 2k, throw on proper terminals, reads like im touching to prongs together.

Test 2, put dvm on 20m, throw on proper terminals, reads like im touching to prongs together.

Test 3, leave dvm on same setting, 20m, throw on proper terminals, reads zilch, nodda. Doesn't move.

So am I correct that test 3, I should get same reading as all others? So this coil is bad right?
Even if a coil checks good on the bench doesn't always mean it'll run an engine. I have a BlasterII coil right now that is that way. Surprised the heck outa' me!

Anyway, from memory, (this is the E-coil for the '90-'92): on the coil there are two connectors each having two terminals. The terminals across from each other (opposite conn's) are tied together. Between those you should get 0 ohms.

Between the two terminals within the same connector you should get about 1 ohm (maybe as low as 0.7 ohm?).

Use the lowest scale for these tests. Also check the resistance of the meter leads by holding them together and getting that reading. Probably be about 0.2 ohms. So take that into account when making the above checks.

Now switch the meter to a higher range that can measure to 20K ohms.

Measure between any terminal and the spark tower (goes to distributor center lead). Should read between 10K and 15K ohms.

Measure between any terminal and coil frame. Should be open (same as having meter leads open).

RBob.
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Old Feb 15, 2003 | 05:44 AM
  #3  
KED85's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: ****SoCal, USA****
Spinning wheels.

Get store manager
ARGUE VERY LOUDLY
Take in-store credit for another part.

Why would this store argue so much over a $30 part when ya have given them so business?
JUST ARGUE LOUD ESPECIALLY WITH CUSOMTERS IN STORE!
Works great.

What's better,
Add a crying screaming 2-5 year old kid, knocking over parts off of shelves. Or when he's about to "need a smelly diaper change!"
They'll get ya outta the store real quick!!
I do so love taking my 2 year old Son with me when I have a "problem"!
He'll be "with me" when I start returning the ICM's that have failed.
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Old Feb 15, 2003 | 09:27 AM
  #4  
Dale's Avatar
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From: AR
Car: 1991 Camaro RS Vert
Engine: 350 S-TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: GU5/G80/J65
Didn't buy either part in store. both parts were mail order.

Done the kid trick before

Will be pulling that trick on insurance company monday who still owes us another month.
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