750 holley DP - suddenly running way rich
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From: Robbinsville NJ
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
750 holley DP - suddenly running way rich
This morning, when i went to start my car, it would not stay running unless i keep my foot on it at high rpms. I shut the car off, looked under the hood, and fuel was still dripping from the boosters (where the choke tower is) and there was large amounts of gas on the throttle plates (in front of carb where the choke tower is). Will a rebuilt kit help this problem? I want to get a Holley Trick Kit. I have never rebuilt a carb before and this is going to be my first time. I'm having trouble identifing the model of my carb. On the choke tower is says 4779-6 and 1524 below it. On the main body casting is says 6R (3752) B. I'll order the trick kit from summit or jegs asap, unless i can find one locally. What part # trick kit should i get? While doing the rebuilt, i'm also going to mill off the choke tower and radius in the entries, and add a 1" phenolic spacer (i think i'll go with a 4 hole spacer to boost the signal in my carb which will probably be lower after i mill off the choke tower). Does my carb have power valve blow out protection? If not, what else will i need to get to put that on? What else do you guys think i should get to upgrade my carb? Thanks for any help.
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,112
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From: Orange County,NY
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt
I would start by fixing what is wrong and maybe it doesn't need a rebuild..start out cheap before you throw money at it.Check for a blown power valve or stuck/bad needle and seat.There could be some crap in the bowls that got mixed up into the needle and seat and hung it open..leaving you with fuel all over.How old is the carb?
Sounds like your needle and seat went on whichever side was dripping fuel from the boosters. You can change it out with the carb intact and on the motor...no disassembly requiered. You can go ahead and get a new trick kit...just use the one new N/S and keep the rest around for spare parts, or buy a N/S seperatly.
Other possible causes of the same symptom are fuel pressure spiking and forcing the N/S off, or a float going bad.
Other possible causes of the same symptom are fuel pressure spiking and forcing the N/S off, or a float going bad.
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 466
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From: Robbinsville NJ
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
This is the rebuilt kit that i found at a local chevy shop. Its not a Holley, but the guy that was there said there is no difference - he's been rebuilding carbs for 25 years. What do you guys think of this kit? The guy also told me that milling off the choke tower wouldn't make a difference unless i was turning like 7,000 rpm. I'm gonna do it anyways though, its gotta be worth an extra 30cfm or so.
experience::: rebuilt holly carb. took car for a hard accelerating ride ran great. turned into my neighborhood and it went to crap.
running rich 2 weeks later finally found the problem. power valve gasket was just a little off center letting gas through also gasket had split in half(thikness). had someone here with much experience and still took that long. keep looking like bad power valve. n/s, float leaves.
running rich 2 weeks later finally found the problem. power valve gasket was just a little off center letting gas through also gasket had split in half(thikness). had someone here with much experience and still took that long. keep looking like bad power valve. n/s, float leaves.
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