Bad Valve gaskets???
#1
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Bad Valve gaskets???
86 TA V8 5.0L 4barrel carburator
2 questions
1. I have some white smoke comming from under the engine, I asked around and somebody told me it was a bad valve gasket.. Is that what it is... or do i give pathetic information out...
2. would this cause the service engine light to come on????
2 questions
1. I have some white smoke comming from under the engine, I asked around and somebody told me it was a bad valve gasket.. Is that what it is... or do i give pathetic information out...
2. would this cause the service engine light to come on????
#2
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Car: 2002 Harley Nightrain
Engine: twin cam 88ci
Transmission: manual
Valves dont have gaskets, but they do have seals. I doubt thats your problem, white smoke means it's water.
#3
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well dang.... i will never ask that moron for help again... i am not any better so i should shut up and ask the forum my questions...
Would low AT fluid cause the light to come on
Would low AT fluid cause the light to come on
#4
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the "valve gasket" that some one told you about may be the valve cover gasket, a leak may let oil drip onto the exaust manifold and get a little some, not a lot though, unless it is a bad leak, this will not make the check engine light come on, 2nd ? low trans fluid wont make the check engine light come on either......hope this helps.
P.S. how many miles on your car?
P.S. how many miles on your car?
#5
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Car: 1987 Monte Carlo SS
Engine: L98
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 7.625 10 bolt/3.73s
Low ATF will not trigger a SES light. What do you mean by 'smoke from under the engine'? Was this person you were talking to speaking about the valve cover gaskets or the valve stem seals? A leaking valve cover gasket that is dripping onto you exhaust will create smoke from the engine compartment and valve stem seals will smoke out of your tailpipes. Neither of those seals will trigger a SES light either.
EDIT: Looks like wyldbillracer types faster than me.
EDIT: Looks like wyldbillracer types faster than me.
#7
JSU,
The ECM is detecting something that it doesn't like or understand from one of the engine sensors. Scan the ECM for error codes. Make a note of the codes, then decode them for hints as to what problems the ECM is detecting. It's fairly easy if you follow these steps:
First, you'll need a few common office supplies. A note pad or card, writing instrument, and a paper clip (or other type of wire used for shorting two contacts). Form your jumper wire or paper clip into a "U" shape. Grab your pen and pad, and your keys.
With the engine and ignition turned off, locate the ALDL connector under the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel in the driver's foot well area. There should be a small rectangular cover over the access hole in the lower dash trim.
Insert a tool as described above (paper clip) into the 'A' and 'B' terminals on the ALDL connector:
WITHOUT STARTING the engine, turn the ignition to the "RUN" position. Watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - it will begin to flash. This is also commonly called the "Service Engine Soon" or "SES" lamp. The first code will flash three times, and will usually be a code '12'. This is encoded by one flash of the lamp, a brief pause, then two successive flashes of the lamp. Each code will repeat three times, so you should see a "Code 12" flash three times. Any other error codes will follow in numerical order, and each code should flash three times. After all codes have been displayed three times, the "Code 12" will again flash three times, then all other codes will follow as described earlier. This cycle will continue until the jumper is removed or the ignition is turned off.
After you have made a note of all error codes, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper immediately. If you forget to remove the jumper and attempt to start the engine with it in place, you could damage the ECM. For this reason you should remove it immediately.
Once you have a note of all error codes, check this file for the decoding:
GM Error Codes.pdf.
(You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view/print the file.)
The ECM is detecting something that it doesn't like or understand from one of the engine sensors. Scan the ECM for error codes. Make a note of the codes, then decode them for hints as to what problems the ECM is detecting. It's fairly easy if you follow these steps:
First, you'll need a few common office supplies. A note pad or card, writing instrument, and a paper clip (or other type of wire used for shorting two contacts). Form your jumper wire or paper clip into a "U" shape. Grab your pen and pad, and your keys.
With the engine and ignition turned off, locate the ALDL connector under the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel in the driver's foot well area. There should be a small rectangular cover over the access hole in the lower dash trim.
Insert a tool as described above (paper clip) into the 'A' and 'B' terminals on the ALDL connector:
WITHOUT STARTING the engine, turn the ignition to the "RUN" position. Watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - it will begin to flash. This is also commonly called the "Service Engine Soon" or "SES" lamp. The first code will flash three times, and will usually be a code '12'. This is encoded by one flash of the lamp, a brief pause, then two successive flashes of the lamp. Each code will repeat three times, so you should see a "Code 12" flash three times. Any other error codes will follow in numerical order, and each code should flash three times. After all codes have been displayed three times, the "Code 12" will again flash three times, then all other codes will follow as described earlier. This cycle will continue until the jumper is removed or the ignition is turned off.
After you have made a note of all error codes, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper immediately. If you forget to remove the jumper and attempt to start the engine with it in place, you could damage the ECM. For this reason you should remove it immediately.
Once you have a note of all error codes, check this file for the decoding:
GM Error Codes.pdf.
(You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view/print the file.)
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#10
JSU,
Look closely at teh ALDL connector to make sure the connection sockets are still there.
Also, when you get in the car, watch the SES lamp before you tun on the ignition. Turn on the ignition (with no jumper in the ALDL) and see if the light flashes once very fast.
Look closely at teh ALDL connector to make sure the connection sockets are still there.
Also, when you get in the car, watch the SES lamp before you tun on the ignition. Turn on the ignition (with no jumper in the ALDL) and see if the light flashes once very fast.
#11
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the connecters are the little bronze thingys right??? if not what are they...
I dont recall seeing the SES light come on and flash.... what happens if it dosent
I dont recall seeing the SES light come on and flash.... what happens if it dosent
#12
Yes, the contacts are bronze. Make sure the jumper contacts both the 'A' and 'B' connectors, then turn on the ignition without starting the engine.
With no jumper in place, when you first turn on the ignition, the SES light should light briefly, turn off briefly, then light and remain on until the engine is started or the ignition is turned off. This is an indication that the ECM has run and passed some basic self-tests.
With no jumper in place, when you first turn on the ignition, the SES light should light briefly, turn off briefly, then light and remain on until the engine is started or the ignition is turned off. This is an indication that the ECM has run and passed some basic self-tests.
#15
If the MIL lamp doesn't flash once during the power-up cycle, the ECM is indicating that it did not run or pass the self diagnostic. This can be due to several things.
From my understanding, the diagnostic sequence is as follows:
ECM P.O.S.T. Routine
* RAM Error Detection and Corrective Action
* NV-RAM Diagnostic Checksum
* High Voltage Disable of ECM Outputs
* All A/D inputs read
* All discrete inputs read
* All pulse accumulator/pulse period/pulse integrator inputs read
* PWM outputs energized individually
* Discrete outputs energized individually each 100 msec
* Check engine light turned off
* EST mode disabled
* Synchronous fuel delivery disabled
* All discrete outputs de-energized
* All PWM outputs de-energized (0% duty cycle)
* Asynchronous fuel output fixed at 3 msec every 6.25 msec
* Checksum of nonvolatile RAM calculated
* One second ECM turn off delay
* IAC outputs on, but not changing state
* EPROM Checksum
* Check engine light turned on
From this sequence, it is apparent that one of the I/O devices is out of expected range (possibly a shorted output device). If the MIL never flashes OFF briefly, the I/O portion of the test hasn't been completed. I suppose it's also possible that the NV-RAM checksum is faulty, or input voltage is out of range, but I would suspect you would never get the MIL lamp on in the first place if that were the case.
I would suggest disconnecting the battery, recharge the battery fully, then reconnect it. Any AC voltage applied to the system from a charger/start booster can scramble the RAM or write erroneous data, so charging the battery while disconnected is a good idea in your case. Before starting the car with the recharged battery, run the test again.
Waiting...
From my understanding, the diagnostic sequence is as follows:
ECM P.O.S.T. Routine
* RAM Error Detection and Corrective Action
* NV-RAM Diagnostic Checksum
* High Voltage Disable of ECM Outputs
* All A/D inputs read
* All discrete inputs read
* All pulse accumulator/pulse period/pulse integrator inputs read
* PWM outputs energized individually
* Discrete outputs energized individually each 100 msec
* Check engine light turned off
* EST mode disabled
* Synchronous fuel delivery disabled
* All discrete outputs de-energized
* All PWM outputs de-energized (0% duty cycle)
* Asynchronous fuel output fixed at 3 msec every 6.25 msec
* Checksum of nonvolatile RAM calculated
* One second ECM turn off delay
* IAC outputs on, but not changing state
* EPROM Checksum
* Check engine light turned on
From this sequence, it is apparent that one of the I/O devices is out of expected range (possibly a shorted output device). If the MIL never flashes OFF briefly, the I/O portion of the test hasn't been completed. I suppose it's also possible that the NV-RAM checksum is faulty, or input voltage is out of range, but I would suspect you would never get the MIL lamp on in the first place if that were the case.
I would suggest disconnecting the battery, recharge the battery fully, then reconnect it. Any AC voltage applied to the system from a charger/start booster can scramble the RAM or write erroneous data, so charging the battery while disconnected is a good idea in your case. Before starting the car with the recharged battery, run the test again.
Waiting...
#16
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its a brand new battery... i guess i could unhook the battery and try it again.... the car requires 525 Cold crank amps... I have a battery with i think 630... might that be a problem????
#17
Please check this summarized thread for information and replies: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=150440
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