I have an '85 camaro, with a transplanted L98 form an '85 corvette under the hood (wiring harness/ecm from the donor vette also)..Everything has been runnign PERFECTLY..

I got a dry Nitrous kit, which was to be mounted 6" in front of the MAF blowing towards it (As the instructions say).. First run, It blew the hotwire inside the stock MAF away and the MAF is now dead..

I got a new one from Advance AutoParts store here, which is a Micro-tech brand direct replacement for an '85 vette, since it is the better/newer design which is like the Wells 145 I guess..

I haven't tried the Nitrous yet, as I noticed my sometimes hunts between 900-450rpms now?? It has never done this with the old MAF, and doesn't do it when the MAF is disconnected (Although the Check Engine light comes on)..

So my 2 questions are :
Anyone else running a dry NOS directly in front of the MAF,

Anyone else having problems with a newer design MAF on their '85 L98 engine?

 

if it isnt a bosch then it sux, simple as that, I think that well and some of these other places should be arrested for attampting to sell something as shoddy as replacement MAFs that not only don't work but cant work. I would suggest finding a good used bosch one from a seller in good standing on Ebay. also get that nozzle behind the MAF not infront of it to keep that from happening again. Also get your money back on that imposter.

 

I was thinking of that, but then the MAF won't be able to tell the computer to add more fuel as the NOS hits.. I don't want to blow the engine..

 

if you are running a kit that runs a pressure line to the fuel pressure regulator then you are set, if you are not running a line to the fuel presure regulator to bump up fuel pressure I must then say MAF's will soon be the least of your problems

 

Can't run a kit like that as I have a remote Fuel Pressure Gage in the car..

Besides it is only a 75HP shot.

Anyone else?

 

I guess you dont know what I am talking about if you thik this has anything to do with a fuel pressure gauge. what brand and part # are you running?

 

Ohh eay sorry I was thinking about the wrong thing.. Geting tired here (12am).

The kit is a CompuCar 'Nitrous-in-a-bag' stealth kit. Pretty nifty to tell the truth.. I didn't want to hook up a full NOS system as I'd only use it at the occaisonal track run and didn't want to make it known..

The way the kit is supposed to work is by letting the MAF tell the computer to increase fuel pressure instead of using a seperate vacuum source to pull the FPR..

 

nitrous in a bag works on fords and some imports with a Vane, mica, or mylar style MAF element or those with stronger small wire MAFs. trying to use it on your car will result in what you got, a damaged MAF. I have installed the 05115 NOS kit on many cars, it is easy to hide and works well up to 75 shot somethimes larger shots if you have bigger injectors. put the nozzle between the MAF and the TB. fuel is added like with a blower kit's FMU. the two selenoids are used in conjuction with a hobbs switch to open the second selenoid when it is energised and the hgobbs has sensed the pressure rise in the fuel. this is for safety and works awsome. a rich condition can occur and jetting up the nitrous jet can increase power and lean it back down to a normal A/F nitrous ratio for more powah!

 

Ahhh I see ..

SO essentially I'd need a Pressure Reducer FMU and Tee that to the AFPR. I already have 24lbs injectors so they will supply enought fuel..

Now the FMU is pushing lower pressure NOS intot he AFPR to increase Fuel pressure, but at the same time it is pushing NOS into the vacuum system too... Isn't that ... kind of bad??

 

no it isnt bad because there is only a tiny bit getting there that way and it goes right into the plenum anyhow. If you look, you see there is a jet there in the "tee". That helps decide how much of the nitrous meant for the FP regulator goes into the engine bypassing through the jet, this is the only time where a bigger jet will deliver less fuel. Either way the vacuum line is not the primary method of N2O injection, the nozzle is. They both put it into the plenum so nothing is lost.

 

Ohh ok...

Do you knwo anyone selling that piece by any chance?

 

I think it may be available in the NOS catalog separately. Someone once told me that all they are is a regulator for a CO2 air shifter actuator to keep the ram from exploding when actuated.

 

I just searched through their website..

Anyoen have a part# or something for this piece? :hail:

 

Though B4C covered just about everything, this topic has been thoroughly discussed in the past. I believe I posted a link 2 years ago that went into to pretty good detail. Check it out.Dry system for F-bodys

Hope this helps! Next time do a search, its amazing how much stuff is out there! Later!

 

Thanks for the link, I thought I read through that one, but I guess I wasn't too detailed in doing so.

This is the part that is really useful to me though :

"The pressure diverter valve is number 11 in the drawing, the pressure tee part number 18 houses the variable pill jet, and the two lines coming off the tee connect to the fuel pressure regulator and intake manifold. The tee allows, with a given jet, for only a limited amount of pressure to be directed into the regulator and the rest is vented into the intake."

I need these pieces. Where can I get them? ANyone have a link, a phone # or a part#?

 

Sorry but NOS (HOLLEY) takes forever to do orders for individual pieces like what you are needing. You might like not like this but I would suggest going out and buying a dry Mustang kit from your local hotrod shop: retails for $400-$500 with the bottle. You might want the extra bottle or you could sell it to reduce the price for the kit. Either way you'll get a matched system which will reduce your chances of mismatching parts. By the way, I know for a fact that when I tried ordering the parts individually that HOLLEY said they were back ordered and delivery would take over six weeks. Good luck!!!

 

If this helps the part NOS part numbers are:

1.) Vacuum hose tee-----------------------------17538
2.) Nitrous solenoid tee--------------------------17242
3.) Nitrous regulator------------------------------15850
4.) 1/8 in. NPT X 1/8 in. NPT Nipple------------17500
5.) 1/8 in. NPT X 3/16 in. hose barb fitting---16244-A-S
6.) Solenoid mounting bracket------------------16509
7.) Vacuum hose-----------------------------------15005

That should just about cover it!

I have included a parts list and assembly drawing to help you see what parts I'm referring to.

 

And the drawing:

 

HOLLEY Tech line--------------------------270-781-9741
NOS Tech line------------------------------714-546-0592
Nearest refill station call-----------------1-800-99refill
Website-------------------------------------www.holley.com
or----------------------------------------www.nosnitrous.com
Distributor----------------------------------Depends upon location
For nearest distributor or dealer-------1-800-holley-1
Jegs------------------------------------------1-800-345-4545

 

Wow thank you for all the info and work... Do I get to give you a hug? Heheh Just kidding (Acting all manly)..

Thanks once again..

Now back to the wierd idle problem with the MAF anyone ever notice anyting like that?

 

Your welcome, but the new topic needs a new thread. Hope the above helps you out. If you do decide to use this info, make sure you test the fuel pressure while under load. You can easily check the fuel pressure increase at idle--but make sure to disconnect the nitrous line. If you have an AFPR you may have to reverse the connections shown and use a really large pill to obtain small pressure gradients--i.e. anything less than 20 psi. For 80 hp you want 20-25 psi and for 125 hp you need 40-45 psi above base line pressure with hose off regulator. Have fun and don't run lean. Later!