Can I gut my stock Prop. valve for the front and rear brakes and basically just use it as a junction box. This way it would send full line pressure to front and rear brakes, then I would use the Wilwood Prop. Valve to adjust the rears.

I did a search and only found people that took the piston and spring out for the rear brakes and not the fronts. There is a piston and spring in the Prop. valve for the front brakes, Right???

This way I wouldn't to cut and flare so many lines. This would basically elimintae the T-fitting in the tech article.

 

Here's the advice I got on the subject.

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=213653

I'm not looking forward to converting the flares either. I did a bunch of flaring work when I put a line lock on my '79 T/A, so I've done it before. It will be a lot less fun flaring lines while they are in the car. The factory lines are made of a harder steel, too.

I'm looking for ISO/double flare converter couplings so I don't have to reflare the lines. I just started looking; if I find some I'll post where I found them.

 

Ya, I read that thread earlier, but thanks for the help. I still want to keep the stock Prop. Valve due to the brake pressure sensor. So basically what I want to know is should I gut the stock Prop. Valve for the front brakes or just leave it stock?

thanks again

 

Anybody see any problems w/ this setup? Or have any suggestions?

 

I would stongly suggest that you do NOT gut the stock Proportioning valve. The front and rear circuits have to be kept separate. If you gut the inside of the prop valve, the front and rear master cylinders can now pump fluid back and forth between them. Trust me...you do NOT want this.

I have seen an attempt to do this before on a Datsun 510. Basic fluid circuitry is the same. What happenned was that every time the brake pedal was pushed, fluid was pumped from the front Master cylinder reservoir into the Rear reservoir. As the Datsun used two separate reservoirs, this soon resulted in the front reservoir being drained and the rear reservoir overflowing. Plus it made for a horrible, long soft pedal.

You also cannot use the Stock proportioning valve with an adjustable rear plumbed in as an extra. This will also result in a long, soggy pedal.

Spend a few more minutes doing the job properly. The results are worth it.

Forget about the stock pressure sensor ( Actually it's a hydraulic shuttle valve ). If that switch is ever triggered, you ain't gonna need no stinkin' light to tell you somethings gone wrong. Light won't come on till pedal is pushed......at the same time your foot goes to the floor

 

So you're telling me that with the wire unhooked I won't get any light on? If this is the case, then I will do away w/ the stock Prop. Valve altogether. I was just worried about having a warning light on at all times.

thanks

 

Yep..wire disconnected...light is off.