Well I am getting constant PM's asking me how I polished my tail lights. Here are some constant questions I get:

Q: Do I have to sand all of the tail light?

A: No. Only sand the parts that have blemishes. I sanded down the DOT lettering flush to get rid of the ugly things. WET sand this using 400 grit sandpaper on a sanding block.

Q: What do I need to do this project?

A: You will need a buffing wheel (loose style), plastic polishing compound from Eastwood, and something to mount the buffing wheel on...I.E.- bench grinder or a high RPM drill (1250+).

Q: What steps do I take to do this right?

A: Take your time when buffing. Pay attention to what you are doing. Be careful for heat build-up as it can happen quickly. Apply medium pressure as hard pressure is not required...let the buffing compound do the work. Wear safety glasses and no loose clothing. Work in a well lit area so you can see what you are doing. It may require going over it several times to acheive the results that I received.

Q: Can this be done on Camaro tail lights?

A: Yes, but I haven't ever done it before so I don't know if the steps are any different.

Q: How much are supplies?

A: Supplies will run you about $20. However, if you don't have a drill or bench grinder/buffer you may have to rent/borrow/buy one.

Here are the steps that I took:

1) Remove the tail lights from the car. If you look at the lenses, you will see raised DOT numbers. These have no use except for collecting dirt and wax, so I solved that problem. Take your 400 grit sandpaper on a sanding block, apply water to the lense, and in about 20 swipes the letters are gone and flush with the surface of the lense.

2) Wash the lenses with soap and water to get rid of any dirt or plastic particles.

3) Apply the buffing compound to the buffing wheel sparingly...once the wheel has started to change to the color of the compound, you have enough. You now have 2 choices when buffing:

A) Go slow and go over the surface once
B) Go fast and go over the surface several times.

*I chose to go slow...the only disadvantage with this is heat build-up. I didn't have a problem with heat build-up, but you may want to check every so often when you are doing it to avoid it.

4) Keep a clean terry cloth nearby so you can wipe away any compound build-up or particles/strings from the buffing wheel. If you start to get a rubber type residue on the lense, this signifies that you are using too much compound, so back off with the compound.

5) You can buff for as long as you want to...it just depends on how well you want it to look. I settled for what I have and they look like glass and took me about an hour of actual buffing.

6) Keep in mind that buffing is a project that requires time. If you rush through it, you will not get brilliant results. Also keep in mind that you do not need to apply much pressure at all when buffing, let the compound do the work, not your arms.

If you have any more questions, please ask and I will add them to the list and answer your question.

-Josh

Here are my results:

 

Your taillights look awesome after the polishing...

 

hey, tail lights look awesome by the way, i was just wondering, i polished my lenses as per your instructions, they look awesome too, i was just wondering what you did about the grid part... mine have dark spots in them, looks like water or air bubbles, that are underneath the grid, is there neway to make the grid part look like the lenses? thanks, mike

 

Hello
Just a warning when using bench grinder or drill mounted wheels for buffing. Excessive buffing wheel speeds will build heat causing the plastic to melt/discolor. Ensure that you use the fluffy wheel as mentioned earlier. Also ensure the wheel is not caked with polishing compound, this will cause heat build-up. Keep the wheel moving and do not apply alot of pressure. I made these mistakes and I have one taillight that has melted. The melting occurs very fast and is irreversible. Take it slow and easy-enjoy the results.
Just another reminder

 

Many thanks for the instructions Josh! I'll think I'll do this soon.

One thing, could you possibly post 'before' pics for comparison please?

 

That looks extremely well done.

I have a question. Would it be possible to use something such as a dremel tool to buff the tail lights instead of a drill or bench grinder?

 

If you can figure out a way to mount a buffing wheel on a spinning tool, by all means go ahead. Just as I said in the first post, I can't stress enough about heat build-up. It comes very fast if you aren't careful...so BE careful.

sikwitit...I'm not exactly sure what you mean...

I only have 1 before picture...here it is along with the after picture in the next post:

 

after...

 

joshp14
I just want to let you know that my melting incident happened about a year ago and not after following your post. Just letting you know.

 

i think he's saying that the grid is separating from the lense. Mine are doing that too, i'm on my 3rd set of used taillights, and i was about to polish them when i saw them separating. I just can't figure out how to fix the grid part.

 

Ohh, mine isn't doing that so I wouldn't know how to fix it...:shrug:

 

Most likely a clear adhesive to put behind it to glue it back on. Just pull it out completely and glue the entire thing back on. Maybe something such as leaving it out all together may work. But mine are doing the same thing so I’m going to have to look at them.

 

hey kidrcth, if that works, please let me know how you did it, i took the tail lights off, and it looks like the plastic is kind of layered on top of the grid... the only way i could see to get it out would be take it out in pieces, such as redraif did i believe... but i really dont want to go rummaging for new tail lights, so if you get yours out, pm me or something, cuz that would be great, thanks, mike

 

Dude I am doing that to my 91 T/A tail lights, Luckily I have some cracked ones to practice on.

 

No actually the grid is painted on the inside of the outter piece of plastic. The same goes for the center section. I know because when i took my center section off i could see the paint peeling on the inside and i tried to repaint it. It looked brand new for 15min until the entire thing shriveled up and looked like ***. Now i have to get a new one. Moral of the story....

LOOK AT THE CAN BEFORE YOU SPRAY, PUTTING LAQUER OVER ENAMEL WILL CAUSE THE WHOLE THING TO DISSOLVE

Ive been working with this kind of stuff way to long to make a dumb mistake like that. Stupid me

Oh well, its off to Ebay i go...

Repainting it will make it look great if you use the right kind of paint

 

i always wondered if that worked well or not..
Finally did it on my 3rd brake light so far.. really came out great!



BEFORE

 

After!

 

Good work my man! It's very rewarding isn't it?

 

the tailights look awesome man i have buffer that i bought from sears to buff my car with but i dont think it has that high of rpms could you point me in the direction of a good buffer to use

 

yeah... I've been polishing wheels for a while now, but i just love the way my lights are turning out.. i'll have to post a few pics of the camaro taillights whenever i get mine done...

 

wow thoses are some nice results, I'm going to have too try this when it gets nicer out, crazy wisconsin weather....

 

awesome results, what kinda ginder did you use? i want something handheld, instead of a bench ginder. what do you recommend?

 

I'm not sure what other kind of buffers you can use. Just make sure you have a drill with high RPM's and a buffing wheel that mounts on it with the plastic polishing compound.

I used the bench grinder cuz you can take the lights off of the car and get every nick and crevice instead of just the main part of the lense.

 

got around to doing the taillights.. I really wish i did a before pic, because they came out great!

 

Hey 86IROCKET-Z,
Did you follow josh's instructions or did you do anything differently. I just bough a pair of the same camaro lights and plan on polishing them, so i was just wondering if anythign was different, thanks.

 

400 wet, 600 wet, 2000 wet..
buff it out.. do the black part to.. it really brings it out beautifully.
I used a thin rubber block.. 3M makes it.. worked really good..
The picture does it no justice at all..
:lala:

 

I tend to stay away from doing the sandpaper method as it takes more time. Let the polishing compound do the work.

Same goes for polishing aluminum, stop at 400, no need to go any farther, then go to the polishing compounds. Turns out better than the sandpaper method anyway IMO.

 

I have seen much better results by going to an even finer grit than 400. It looks great if you ask me. Done a few different sets of wheels, and you can always get rid of those annoying finer scratches on the wheel with something like 600 or 1000.. Feels like glass.. It all depends on how much time you want to spend on it.
Just my 2 cents

 

So did you do it entirely by hand? I'm a little confused on this.

 

nope, After wetsanding 2000 I got polishing compound out and I have a polisher (kinda like a mini-buffer), which I used to polish out the taillights.. I'll get a pic up of it tommorrow.

 

I did the methods stated above. I have to now look for a new left taillight assembly. I did the wet sanding (by hand) and polishing (both by hand and machine) and neither helped. In fact it looks even more cloudy and scraped up.

 

Well you must have done something wrong because If you follow the instructions above, you will have the same results. You said you polished by hand....with a polishing compound paste? What steps did you take?

 

joshp14, what about these?
i have my own methods...
what you think?



Before and a after...

 

Looks good...comparable to mine ...actually looks like you polished for a few extra minutes. What is your method....if different than mine?

 

I used Mothers Wax metal polish and Eagle one on mine....

 

Wow, those look sweet! How much for me to mail mine to you and you make 'em pretty?

No. really. I'm totally serious. I haven't the patience to do it myself. PM me if you're game!

 

joshp, is it alot better to use a bench grinder when polishing taillights? I am using a drill right now and they shine great but I think I could do better. Would it be worth it to get a bench grinder? What is the average amount of time you spend on a taillight? Thanks.

 

Well, if you think they can shine more via other methods, then by all means go right ahead. Hell you can get bench grinders for like $20 now. I haven't ever used the drill method, just heard about it. Although I like the fast, immediate results that a bench grinder gives, rather than the continuous work of using a drill (or so I've heard).

Only thing with the BG is, you are spinning about 2 times the RPM's as the drill, so the heat build-up is significant and must be observed otherwise you will have some melted tail lights. As long as you dont apply much pressure, and move the wheel at a moderate speed across the surface of the lense, you should be ok.

 

i have black outs on my firebird and somehow someone scratched the passenger side blackout would this polishing technique help get rid of my ugly scratch

 

If the blackouts are plastic, then I assume it will work. Use this polishing method for surface scratches only....it won't take out scratches that you can feel.

 

what is a good way to clean buffing wheels?

 

They actually make a buffing wheel cleaner on Eastwood. You may be able to pick one up at a local hardware store too. It looks like a brush, only with very stiff metal brissels.

 

those are some darned nice looking tail lights. when you say use a drill buffer, what do you mean? like a cordless drill then some kind of buffing pad (that goes in like a drill bit)? I would really like to get my lights to look that nice (well first I need ones that aren't cracked to hell and back). anyway thanks in advance

 

Exactly. Go to Sears and ask where the buffing wheels are. You can buy a small package for like $6 that comes with 3 buffing wheels, an arbor, and like 4 buffing compounds ( for metal polishing, not plastic). Then you will need the blue plastic polishing compound from Eastwood Co.

After you get those products, just read my directions above.

 

The grid in the taillights I worked with was acually a separate plastic piece that was adheared to the clear lense. I actually had a heck of a time getting it out. I would be careful removing it if it has not natually separated, or it might crack the clear lense.

The center sections are painted though.

 

Be careful w/ a dremel...it has a much smaller surface area and tends to heat plastic up quick. I tried this method a long time ago on my trucks tailights and melted a small area. Plus it will take longer and be harder to get an even finish.

 

hey i decided to finally take on this task, but can i ask, what is the alternative to meguiars plastic polish?

 

Just a tip for everyone I used 3M rubbing compound and it also worked wonders to remove very fine surce blemishes and made my grid taillights look like they just came from the factory. for deeper blemishes wet sand with 2000-1000 grit sand paper, then step down to mothers mag polish, then use a plastic polish like mcguires no 7 mirror glaze. the mag polish is slightly more abrasive than the mcguires and works into the lense a little deeper to remove blemishes. Keep in mind this works on taillights, plastic taillight covers, side markers, plastic fog lamp lenses, instrument cluster lenses, i even polished up the center console clock on my 83 Z! but like everyone else sates, WATCH FOR HEAT BUILD UP! good luck !

 

Do you think this procedure would work for the gauge lens? Its a lot softer plastic than tail-lights. I picked one up at the wrecker, a bit scratched up, but I didn't have one at all (as the guy swapped out the speedo and never replaced the lens)

 

yes.
I did this with my gauge lense, but i would not go with a grit any heavier than 1000.
you have to take it out and wetsand for quite a while, and then polish.
I also used windex on the lense before putting it back in, to make sure it was clear as could be.