here it is now keep in mind this is a bolt on only LO3 inside of the motor is bone stock so far

R/T-.417 (RED)
60'-1.998
330-5.991
1/8-9.327
MPH-73.81
1000-12.236
1/4-14.708
MPH-91.32

Not too bad huh??

 

wtf thats amazing.

 

wtf.. i got major mods and have yet to reach that time...:lala:

 

mod list?

 

heres the mods guys

Weld Wheels
275/50/15 BFG Drag Radials,Stock 215/65/15 on front
Removed All Emissions Junk
Removed both front and rear sway bars
3.42 open rear from a 1985 2.8 Camaro
B&M Shift Kit
B&M 3500 Stall Converter (non lockup)
B&M MegaShifter
Edlebrock Open Element with K&N Filter
Holley 670 Throttle Body
Accel Ignition Coil
Accel Cap and Rotor Button
MSD 6A spark box
MSD 9 mm wires
March two piece underdrive pulleys
Hypertech Thermomaster Chip
160 Thermostat
TBI Throttle Body Spacer from Turbo City
Holley Flowtech headers and Ypipe
No Converter just straight pipe
Dynomax Catback with super turbo muffler
Aluminum Drive Shaft from 2000 Trans Am
Aluminum Brake Drums from 87 IROC

i still have yet to change the distributer and intake manifold

 

soon as i figure out this pc camera ill take a picture of the slip for ya guys

 

DA-YUM!!!!

Viva TBI!!!

 

pretty close to my times, CONGRATS!!!. I cant wait to get to the track on the 24th to test the new 2400 stall converter, probuilt street/strip tranny and edelbrock performer tbi if i get it in by then.

 

Are you running the stock intake with that 670TBI? If so your times should improve because both that spacer and the stock intake have the smaller bores and will cause the air to become turbulent before it enters into the engine. I can't believe that you don't have drivablty problems with that TBI unit and a basically stock tune. What inejctors are you using? Isn't a 3500 stall a bit steep for the stock cam? Well I am impressed none the less.

 

Pretty good times. Be prepared for another one soon Bolt on L03s can be 14 second cars pretty easily if you know what you are doing. BTW, where were you shifting at? Oh, and what's wrong with the stock distributor?

 

That sounds about right, have you done any prom tuning yet? I bet with tuning you could shave off another 2 tenths or so. Definately nice times though! That's a really nice 60'!

Tony

 

The 60' was listed as a 1.998, that's pretty good, I suppose those drag radials help you launch a little better

 

how are you launching?, from idle and mashing it at the light, are you going from a certain RPM since you have such a high stall?

 

those are some great times for your mods. my stock LO3 ran at 90.2mph, but only a 15.5 ET and of course my great 2.25 60' i never got a chance to run it with the headers, but i would guess if i could get a good launch, it would have been a 14sec car with headers.

 

I'm only dreaming about 14's right now. I ran a 17.6 @ 83.0

Working on the chip to tie all the mods together. I would love to run a 14.7


Bill

 

275/50/15 BFG Drag Radials

those help alot? i was thinking about a pair.

I'm also interested in how you lauch, particularly where in RPM band.

-chuck

 

im waiting to see my times this summer i have gears on the way and headers already in since i ran a 16.00 but my 60' was horrible

 

With that big of a stall and DR's I'm guessing he's launching close to the 3500 rpm it's rated at. Good job though, my Holley goes in this weekend.

 

And with an open ended rear too! Wonder what difference posi would make?

Bruce (90RS305)

 

Not bad at all, there is actually a lot of potential in the L03 for those with 14's in mind

My 305 with only bolt ons ran a best of 91.44mph, though unfortuantly, I wasn't very good at launching it (street tires were bald as well-not to mention they were only 215's) So needless to say, the time was only a 15.7 (60' of 2.4).

Mods if I remember correctly were:

Holley 670/ 57pph
MSD 6A and coil
crank underdrive pulley
Accel 8.8 wires
zexel torsen slip off posi 3.73
t-56 and aluminum driveshaft
hedman TES headers/y-pipe, and 2.5" pipe thru flowmaster
tbichips.com custom chip
Rear seat, spare tire and jack removed.

Never touched anything under the valve covers. My next mods were the Holley pro-jection intake and 1.6 roller tip rockers, which improved performance a ton, it actually felt better than the gear change.

 

im happy with the performance im getting out of my LO3. I hope to get into the 14.6s possibly even the 14.5s if im lucky with the new tranny, 2400 stall and performer tbi intake. Less than 2 more weeks, i cant wait.

 

the 60' times is very impressive, and the MPH is interestingly low, so it isn't making big power. but obviously you got the suspension working great to pull off that number. just further proof that there is more to low et's than horsepower.

anyway, i am impressed. nice job.

 

yeah guys the car is a beast out the whole but shes done at the 1/8 mile

im lauching at 1800rpm

its suppost to be a 3500 stall but it only goes to 3000

but its got the stage 2 hypertech in it and no prom tuning has been done. I dont have anyway of doing that no how. i did manage a few 1.89 60 foots too but it only ran 14.76.But like i said come the 1/8 mile its dead to the world.im turning the same mph as a 15 sec honda but i got the 60 foot of a low 13 second car the next thing im doin is the intake manifold and some posi traction out back because it looks stupid to have a car run this good and only spining the right rear tire

oh btw by this summer im gonna start on the inside of this little beast how do i obtain the equipment need to tune the prom for a cam and some heads???

 

what are you shifting at?

 

The sticky at the top will tell you and link you to everything you need to know.

 

im shifting at 5000 using the B&M shifter

 

Weak-*** stock engine has a little less output than the makers of that TC intended, when they rated it.

 

Nice. All I am looking for in my car is low 15's or high 14's. If I can get there I would be happy.

 

well seeing at this yr will be my first attempt at the track .. idbe happy with high 14's low 15s with waht i have considering its my first time

 

Why did you get rid of your front and rear sway bars?

 

the front sway bar helps with power distribution when launching, but i heard that the rear sway bar actually helps with launching because it keeps the car straight????

 

Hey dennis how many miles are on your motor?

And do you think your times would be faster if you had a manual tranny?

 

the motor only has 18,000 on it the old motor blew up and i didnt have the heart to put in a 350

i honestly dont think it would go faster with a stick with the shift kit and 3500 stall it launches hard and shifts very qwik even though id love to have me a 5 speed that way i can snag some gears

 

Damn, I wish I only had 18K on my motor.

Can someone please explain to me what all this "3500 stall" stuff means?

 

Im pretty sure this is how it works.

The stall speed is the speed at which the engine must be spinning at to roast the back tires. If you notice on your car (if it still has the stock torque converter) when you push on the brake and gradually push on the gas it will get up to about 1300 before the back tires (tire for us peg-leggers) start to spin. This means you can launch at 1300 rpms, instead of the 600 you're at at an idle. With a 3500 rpm TC he should be able to launch at 3500. This allows the car to start up higher in the power curve, making more power faster, and getting a quicker 1/4 mile time.

hope that helps, im sure there is more to it someone else chime in and get what i missed.

-chuck

 

sure thing

3500 stall is this

a stock LO3 will usually powerbrake up to 1200rpm before the right rear tire starts to spin

with a stall converter you can take the car up higher before the tires break loose therefore giving you a much much harder launch

 

I don't have to worry about this stuff with my manual T-5 right?

 

Nope, you don't have a torque converter with a manual tranny. Sticks are usually harder to launch but you can launch it wherever you want in the RPM band it just takes some getting used to where the best launching RPM is.

 

Nice times. That's up there with myself and a few others that have hit 14s with bolt-ons to the engine. I think I ran 14.7 @ 93 mph with bolt-ons and gears, car only made 178 rwhp at the time.

 

i wish mine was in the 15's i went to the track the other day and ran a 16.6@87mph (best run) 17.3@79 (worst) after the 16.6 it never hit it again it just kept getting slower and slower. and after the 1/8 i could feel it start to slow down does anyone know y it would do that?

 

Spark knock will make a car die after the 1/8 mile.

Picked up .3 sec and 3 or 4 mph by simply reducing base timing in my TPI one hot night when I could just feel the car not making power after the first 1/8 mile or less.

 

Yeah, the hotter the engine gets the less power it makes. The difference can be dramatic. A nice cool motor just feels like its pulling, while a hot motor just feels sluggish.

It sucks because the fan doesn't come on until it hits 220 degrees, which is way too high.

I got a jet fan switch so I can turn the fan off and on whenever I want, along with a Be Cool radiator and an Edlebrock aluminum water pump.

The car feels way better now. Way more fun to drive, it accelerates better, and I can feel it pull.

All that being said you don't really need a new radiator or water pump, but I would definatley get the jet fan swich its' like $40, and will make a big difference.

 

actualy the combo you want is, hot motor, cold air

my motor, with coolent temps aound 190, has intake air temps in the 85*-90* range.

 

Are those good air temps?

And how do you know that?

Dual snorkel or open element?

 

I put in a 350 motor in my 89 firebird and kept the 305 sensors TBI etc. and my car ran a 15.0 in the 1/4 mile with a second and a half delay off the light of course i had a couple of mods like edelbrock heads, intake, water pump. the car definitely ran better when cold and got slower throughout the day.

 

yes they are pretty good for the engine temp.

i run my laptop with the scan tool at the track, so i can see what is going on.

open element, but i have a few sneaky ways of getting cold air to the intake.

 

Please enlighten us of these "sneaky ways."

 

it all has to do with directing cold air toward the element. there are many places you can get cold air from, just direct it at the intake. we also have a handy almost funtional cowl from the factory, you just have to utilise it.

 

Details please:hail:

 

i get pretty cold intake air temps from my hood i have the RAM 2 style hood with no air box so the air just kind of flows right toward my air cleaner. and i also have to agree my car got slower times when my block temp got warmer