How-To do your own hood scoop.
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Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 649
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From: logan co. wv
Car: 86 camaro
Engine: 2.8 multiport cross fire injection
Transmission: 5 speed
How-To do your own hood scoop.
Hey guys after doing my own hood scoop I thought I's post up a How-To so you guys would know how to do this if you wanted to. Mine was a ram-air hood scoop but this would go for any fiberglass and maybe abs plastic scoop or metal scoop of your chioce. Please excuse all typos I done this fast and my pc won't spell check for me find any typos let me know I'll try fix em and alot of abreviation like won't doesn't they ain't abreviated they are just isnt doesnt aint wont that kinda thing so try lok over my typing guys maybe someone could copy it and spell check it for me then fix it. email it back to me or soemthing.
Tools and materials:
A hood of course.
Scoop of your choice.
Fiberglass (bondo-glass) is what I used it's not got long strands but works great you could use other brands or long strand ones maybe as well.
Bondo (featherrite, light weight body filer whichever you preffer to call it.)
Spreaders.
Pop rivet gun and pop rivets. (mine were the very long shank aluminium ones from lowes.)
Drill cordless or corded and an 1/8 drill bit.
Grinder.
Sand paper 36 or 40 , 120, 150, 180,(not nessecary tho.) and 220 for a d/a and wet. and 400 wet paper. You can substitute an air file of board w/ paper on it anything you choose and will make it easier to sand and to sand flat.
I recomend an air compressor and a dual action sander (d/a as it wil be called throughout my post.)
Air comnpressor for the air tools.
I reccomend air gun for spraying primer and paints as well but you can use aresol just a gun gives you a better job.
Primer
Paint
Spot filler or glazing putty (Iused kind in the toothpaste tube w/o hardner but I recomend some w/ hardner from an auto body shop like icing or thin ice or polyester glazing putty.)
OK 1st off get out your scoop and test fit it to your hood. Mine had to be trimmed because the front edge slooped down too much. Once trimmed to a good fit you can make sure and postion it were it needs to be . I set mine back as far as it would go but had to get more creative on the back due to it being a lil more raiuded then my hood. I'll attach a link to my site w/ pics of it to show what i mean later. I'd say measure from the end or tip on side of scoop on driver's side to the end of hood on drivers side to get a measurement and then do same on passenger side to get an equal number on both sides. Also measure fomr one side of hood to the other and get a middle measurement and mark it on the hood for refference later. Do the same on the hood scoop and lay it on the hood and line the marks up. That should make it an even number on noth sides from the end of the scoop(side) to the end(side) of the hood. If not then try and tweak it a lil and step back to see how it looks and if you are happy time to move on. It's very hard to get theese centered. Imade a mark on top of scoop and bottom of scoop and top and botom on hood as well. To get the bottom center mark measure the hood scoop to see how long it is, then go to the hood the center mark u made measure down how long yor scoop is say its 55 inches go down 55 inches and mark the hood. Once done set your tape were the mark for length of scoop is (55) and measyre fomr side to side of the hood, get your middle point and mark it, that should leave you w/ a plus sign shaped mark one for distance side to side and one for length fomr top middle of hood down to the end of scoop's length. That's the best way I know to get one as close to centered as possible, going off the fenders doesn't work.
2nd. Once centered hold the scoop in place have someon hold it whil eu dril or tape it down in place. DO NOT LET IT MOVE!!!!!! that wil throw your measurements and alignment off and waste your time marking and measuring. Drill about 6 or 8 holes through the hood and scoop don't go to close to the edge of your scoop you shoudl have around an inch or so flat spot on it go in abotu a half inch or center (middle) part between the scoop goin up and edge or end of the lip. Get some self starter screws(black drywall ones work great about 1-1/4 inch or so wil do fine.) and screw your scoop to the hood. This will hold it in place while you drill the rest. I put a screw in each corner then a couple in the middles of the scoop sides and bottom i had no flat top to screw down. OK now you can go about an inch or 2 apart all the way across and down the scoop drilling 1/8 inch holes for rivets. When your done driling holes get your rivets and rivet gun and rivet the scoop down. When you've got thoose all done back you rscrews out and place a rivet in there holes. Then visually inspect to see if any edges of the scoop are raised higher then were the rivets are like a 1/4 inch or more gap between the scoop and hood if so drill hole and put a rivet in to cure that problem.
Now comes the fun part!!!!
3.GRind down the heads of the rivets a lil to try and make them flush w/ the fiberglass of the scoop. This does'nt need to be done you'll just have to cover them and build up your fillers over the heads. so the choice is yuors to grind the heads a lil or not. Grind the hood area around the scoop, we used a d/a for working the bondo down and it's got a 6 inch pad so we ground around the scoop out away fomr it around 6 or so inches so the bondo would stick and you could blend the scoops into the hood to make it appear to be factory. I had to fil the indents in my hood since the scoop covered them in the back but you might not have to or want to if you do grind them inside of em a lil and about 2 or 3 inches on both sides of the indents to feather edge the bondo in and make it blend well to the hood. Once done grinded get out your fiberglass and mix it up as the can says and apply way it says to, apply it over the heads of rivets and were the scoop meets the hood. You do not have to do the ful 6 inch away span you are only wanting the stronger then bondo fiberglass to help mold and hold your scoop to your hood and reducing the risk of cracking. So about an inch or 2 out fomr the scoop and a lil on top would be fine. Let dry then check for high spots i used a grinder to knock them off and make bondoing easier but do not go to far so that you take all the glass off the scoop because as I said you want it to hold and glue the scoop to the hood. Then mix your bondo or body filler and apply it thins coats here people. Let dry and sand down we used 80 grit on a d/a you could use an air file w/ some 40 to make it faster but you'd have to grind out abotu 12 inches or more around the scoop since the air file has a 12 inch surface for paper. NOTE: hand sanding sucks and would take forever but coudl be done just use somethign solid and flat to hold your paper to avoid lumps and waves, so air files,d/a's electric sanders woudl greatly help this go faster. Remember whatever the length of the pad like d/a is 6 inches and air files 12 inches you need to grind that far out away from your scoop to blend it w/ the tool of choice. OK more then likely you''l have alot of low spots, keep putting on coat after coat of bondo and sanding in between so put a coat on, ;let dry, sand down, find low spots (you'l know you'l se them or feel them or your sander will kick around on high spots and all so you'll know) but if you are attemping this you need prior bondo body work experience anyways. so you'll know how to tell low spots. ONce you got all low spots out and sanded down level primer the hole surface you done work on all ypur sanded spots and bondo. Let dry then apply a coat of glazing putty over the entire arear. Let dry then wet sand off w/ 220 on a paint stick or block or something solid and long enough to span your worked on bonoed area. Meaning 12 inch span use 12 inch board or stick. Once thats sanded off re primer. Let your primer dry and wet sand it off w/ some 400 grit paper. Then paint to the color of your choice!!!!!
I reccomend a compressor and paint gun along w/ paint gun primer,thinner and paint.
Here's the link to my webpage that has pic of the install. Sorry for not having any during the bondo process. I would have posted pics inside this thread well how to but I didn't know how to do it. So here it is:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/509905/5
and any queations you might have you can pm me about I'l respond within a day or so because i frequent theese boards and my email.
Tools and materials:
A hood of course.
Scoop of your choice.
Fiberglass (bondo-glass) is what I used it's not got long strands but works great you could use other brands or long strand ones maybe as well.
Bondo (featherrite, light weight body filer whichever you preffer to call it.)
Spreaders.
Pop rivet gun and pop rivets. (mine were the very long shank aluminium ones from lowes.)
Drill cordless or corded and an 1/8 drill bit.
Grinder.
Sand paper 36 or 40 , 120, 150, 180,(not nessecary tho.) and 220 for a d/a and wet. and 400 wet paper. You can substitute an air file of board w/ paper on it anything you choose and will make it easier to sand and to sand flat.
I recomend an air compressor and a dual action sander (d/a as it wil be called throughout my post.)
Air comnpressor for the air tools.
I reccomend air gun for spraying primer and paints as well but you can use aresol just a gun gives you a better job.
Primer
Paint
Spot filler or glazing putty (Iused kind in the toothpaste tube w/o hardner but I recomend some w/ hardner from an auto body shop like icing or thin ice or polyester glazing putty.)
OK 1st off get out your scoop and test fit it to your hood. Mine had to be trimmed because the front edge slooped down too much. Once trimmed to a good fit you can make sure and postion it were it needs to be . I set mine back as far as it would go but had to get more creative on the back due to it being a lil more raiuded then my hood. I'll attach a link to my site w/ pics of it to show what i mean later. I'd say measure from the end or tip on side of scoop on driver's side to the end of hood on drivers side to get a measurement and then do same on passenger side to get an equal number on both sides. Also measure fomr one side of hood to the other and get a middle measurement and mark it on the hood for refference later. Do the same on the hood scoop and lay it on the hood and line the marks up. That should make it an even number on noth sides from the end of the scoop(side) to the end(side) of the hood. If not then try and tweak it a lil and step back to see how it looks and if you are happy time to move on. It's very hard to get theese centered. Imade a mark on top of scoop and bottom of scoop and top and botom on hood as well. To get the bottom center mark measure the hood scoop to see how long it is, then go to the hood the center mark u made measure down how long yor scoop is say its 55 inches go down 55 inches and mark the hood. Once done set your tape were the mark for length of scoop is (55) and measyre fomr side to side of the hood, get your middle point and mark it, that should leave you w/ a plus sign shaped mark one for distance side to side and one for length fomr top middle of hood down to the end of scoop's length. That's the best way I know to get one as close to centered as possible, going off the fenders doesn't work.
2nd. Once centered hold the scoop in place have someon hold it whil eu dril or tape it down in place. DO NOT LET IT MOVE!!!!!! that wil throw your measurements and alignment off and waste your time marking and measuring. Drill about 6 or 8 holes through the hood and scoop don't go to close to the edge of your scoop you shoudl have around an inch or so flat spot on it go in abotu a half inch or center (middle) part between the scoop goin up and edge or end of the lip. Get some self starter screws(black drywall ones work great about 1-1/4 inch or so wil do fine.) and screw your scoop to the hood. This will hold it in place while you drill the rest. I put a screw in each corner then a couple in the middles of the scoop sides and bottom i had no flat top to screw down. OK now you can go about an inch or 2 apart all the way across and down the scoop drilling 1/8 inch holes for rivets. When your done driling holes get your rivets and rivet gun and rivet the scoop down. When you've got thoose all done back you rscrews out and place a rivet in there holes. Then visually inspect to see if any edges of the scoop are raised higher then were the rivets are like a 1/4 inch or more gap between the scoop and hood if so drill hole and put a rivet in to cure that problem.
Now comes the fun part!!!!
3.GRind down the heads of the rivets a lil to try and make them flush w/ the fiberglass of the scoop. This does'nt need to be done you'll just have to cover them and build up your fillers over the heads. so the choice is yuors to grind the heads a lil or not. Grind the hood area around the scoop, we used a d/a for working the bondo down and it's got a 6 inch pad so we ground around the scoop out away fomr it around 6 or so inches so the bondo would stick and you could blend the scoops into the hood to make it appear to be factory. I had to fil the indents in my hood since the scoop covered them in the back but you might not have to or want to if you do grind them inside of em a lil and about 2 or 3 inches on both sides of the indents to feather edge the bondo in and make it blend well to the hood. Once done grinded get out your fiberglass and mix it up as the can says and apply way it says to, apply it over the heads of rivets and were the scoop meets the hood. You do not have to do the ful 6 inch away span you are only wanting the stronger then bondo fiberglass to help mold and hold your scoop to your hood and reducing the risk of cracking. So about an inch or 2 out fomr the scoop and a lil on top would be fine. Let dry then check for high spots i used a grinder to knock them off and make bondoing easier but do not go to far so that you take all the glass off the scoop because as I said you want it to hold and glue the scoop to the hood. Then mix your bondo or body filler and apply it thins coats here people. Let dry and sand down we used 80 grit on a d/a you could use an air file w/ some 40 to make it faster but you'd have to grind out abotu 12 inches or more around the scoop since the air file has a 12 inch surface for paper. NOTE: hand sanding sucks and would take forever but coudl be done just use somethign solid and flat to hold your paper to avoid lumps and waves, so air files,d/a's electric sanders woudl greatly help this go faster. Remember whatever the length of the pad like d/a is 6 inches and air files 12 inches you need to grind that far out away from your scoop to blend it w/ the tool of choice. OK more then likely you''l have alot of low spots, keep putting on coat after coat of bondo and sanding in between so put a coat on, ;let dry, sand down, find low spots (you'l know you'l se them or feel them or your sander will kick around on high spots and all so you'll know) but if you are attemping this you need prior bondo body work experience anyways. so you'll know how to tell low spots. ONce you got all low spots out and sanded down level primer the hole surface you done work on all ypur sanded spots and bondo. Let dry then apply a coat of glazing putty over the entire arear. Let dry then wet sand off w/ 220 on a paint stick or block or something solid and long enough to span your worked on bonoed area. Meaning 12 inch span use 12 inch board or stick. Once thats sanded off re primer. Let your primer dry and wet sand it off w/ some 400 grit paper. Then paint to the color of your choice!!!!!
I reccomend a compressor and paint gun along w/ paint gun primer,thinner and paint.
Here's the link to my webpage that has pic of the install. Sorry for not having any during the bondo process. I would have posted pics inside this thread well how to but I didn't know how to do it. So here it is:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/509905/5
and any queations you might have you can pm me about I'l respond within a day or so because i frequent theese boards and my email.
Last edited by benoit454; Mar 24, 2004 at 09:28 AM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,383
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From: surrey b.c. canada
Car: 89 Iroc
Engine: lb9
Transmission: wc t-5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.08 posi
great read man, gotta love it when someone puts the effort into writing one of these up, kudos
all its missing is pics however
all its missing is pics however
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 649
Likes: 0
From: logan co. wv
Car: 86 camaro
Engine: 2.8 multiport cross fire injection
Transmission: 5 speed
thanks guys yea i forgot the link lol. i was'nt sure how to post up pics of the progess in the text itself or i would have.
anyways for everyone reading
HERE IS THE LINK TO PICS OF IT IN PROGRESS
This can be added in as well and I will since i need add another thing to it.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/509905/5
anyways for everyone reading
HERE IS THE LINK TO PICS OF IT IN PROGRESS
This can be added in as well and I will since i need add another thing to it.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/509905/5
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 649
Likes: 0
From: logan co. wv
Car: 86 camaro
Engine: 2.8 multiport cross fire injection
Transmission: 5 speed
to all and any mods.
yea you guys can feel free to cut just the article about how to do it out and past it as a sticky or tech article if you like because thats the reason i posted it so other ppl would know how to.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 649
Likes: 0
From: logan co. wv
Car: 86 camaro
Engine: 2.8 multiport cross fire injection
Transmission: 5 speed
i also forgot i have some pics of it painted now up on page seven of my cardoamin page and will have more very soon.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/509905/7
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/509905/7
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,265
Likes: 2
From: Hill AFB, Utah
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA Notchback
Engine: 305ci, 5.0L, TPI, HO
Transmission: Borg Warner T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt Positraction Rear w/3.45 Grs
I'll sticky it, for now. Try to stay on the topic. Thanks.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 649
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From: logan co. wv
Car: 86 camaro
Engine: 2.8 multiport cross fire injection
Transmission: 5 speed
I hate to reveal secrets but i'm here to help so u can find them on ebay search for ram air hood scoop i can get the guys email and ebay user name prolly.
on ebay they go for 95 plus 35 i think shipping and insured.
i got mine by dealing direct w/ him for 120 shipped insured and everything.
guys in rhode island at place called atlantic coast cutoms.
i cant seem to find the exact one on ebay since its ben liek 3 months sicne i got mine but there are other universal ram air hood scoops on ebay.
the guys email i got mine from is
JApar86513@aol.com <JApar86513@aol.com>
im pretty sure ebay id is sc604 but not positive.
hope this helps.
on ebay they go for 95 plus 35 i think shipping and insured.
i got mine by dealing direct w/ him for 120 shipped insured and everything.
guys in rhode island at place called atlantic coast cutoms.
i cant seem to find the exact one on ebay since its ben liek 3 months sicne i got mine but there are other universal ram air hood scoops on ebay.
the guys email i got mine from is
JApar86513@aol.com <JApar86513@aol.com>
im pretty sure ebay id is sc604 but not positive.
hope this helps.
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,965
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From: Philly
Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
nice job. I was thinking, it wouldnt be too hard to make your own scoop also. I might try it this summer on a old hood and see how it turns out. That way your not limited to scoops aval or to a price range.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 649
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From: logan co. wv
Car: 86 camaro
Engine: 2.8 multiport cross fire injection
Transmission: 5 speed
Hey robert you mean like start from scratch and like build a mold or something for it?
I don't see why not it would work very easily I think because people who make hods make there molds and all you could just build one out of metal and fiberglass it or something.
I don't see why not it would work very easily I think because people who make hods make there molds and all you could just build one out of metal and fiberglass it or something.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,965
Likes: 0
From: Philly
Car: 85 firebird
Engine: Pos 2.8 pulled and replaced with a 350 tpi motor converted to carb.
Transmission: 700r4, vette servo,shift kit, hayden 15"x8" trans cooler.
Yup, completely your own. Make the scoop ad all. After i looked at some of the prices of the hoods im gonna try it this summer.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 649
Likes: 0
From: logan co. wv
Car: 86 camaro
Engine: 2.8 multiport cross fire injection
Transmission: 5 speed
That's a really good idea man. Keep me updated on the progress on that.
I'd do my own from scratch if I had alot of things, time, tools, and a good large area to work in.
I'd do my own from scratch if I had alot of things, time, tools, and a good large area to work in.
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