I just put a brand new engine in and it looks like there is coolant in the oil. Also the magnet on the drain plug had some metal filing on it. This is only after about 10 miles on the engine, what you think?

 

MILKSHAKE!! Where's my straw?

Man I feel for you. Time to pull her apart again.

 

MMMMMMMMMM, Brain Stew!

 

Any idea's? Think the engine is shot? It still runs fine but I got to fix the problem. My old engine had this problem so I replaced it because I though the block was cracked.

The only thing carried over form the old engine is the stock TPI intake which was pitted around the coolant ports, I filled it with JB weld but it looks like it's time to buy a new intake.

Any idea on the thin metal shavings / metal dust on the magnet on the drain plug?

 

opps double post

 

Umm, pics would help. If the coolant was in there for any length of time while running the bearings are probably shot. You won't know for sure until you open it up. You may want to pressure test the cooling system and do a compression and a leakdown test to help determine where the coolant is leaking from.

 

It looks like it has more metal than coolant in it.

 

Probably due to the flash. All the damn particles from his bearings most likely reflected the flash well.

 

My oil looked like that for 300~ miles after the rebuild. I beleive it had coolant in it, too. turned out the intake was leaking water down to lifter valley. Didnt hurt the bearings though, water usually sinks to the bottom below where the pickup gets its oil so i think that saved it.

 

not to give you false hope, but my oil looked similar to that after about 250 miles... definately check for coolant leaks, but alot of that could be the assembly lube and small metal flakes left in the valley from machining. assembly lube has carbon dust in it which resembles metal shavings. still looks like there is water, but alot of the shimmer is the lube. good luck

 

Guys, this is after only 10 miles. That oil should be a shimmering a little but still be a lot clearer than that. 10 miles. If it were me I'd at the least do the tests. I have been known to be paranoid about these things though.

 

I agree with the smoking skull from the Hot Place. Do a compression and leakdown test on all 8. That will give you an idea of whats going on. And i agree, after 10 miles, the oil shouldn't be like that.

How did the engine run and what was the oil PSI at?

 

My brothers 99 GMC Jimmy 4.3 had oil that looked just like that. There were like 9 quarts of coolant+oil in it , and after running it for 15 minutes after an oil change, it was right back where it was

The intake manifold gaskets were leaking in the front. The truck has about 80,000 miles on it.

I was worried about the bearings too. I changed the gaskets and it's been running great ever since.

 

compression check first, then do a leak down test on any low cylinders, if all are uniform do a coolant pressure test. finally pull the intake and look for obvious signs of leakage. if none are apparent, make steel block off plates for the coolant passages and again pressure check the system to rule out a blown head gasket. these are all cheap methods do find out what's going on with your motor. hope this helps.

 

The TPI manifolds are know to leak over #1 & #8 and let coolant down into the lifter valley.

 

Is there anyway to do a cooling pressure test without taking it to a shop? Is the tool expensive?

How will a compression or leakdown test tell me how there is coolant and metal filings in my oil?

I pulled my manifold today, couldn't tell if it was leaking or not but it is pitted around the coolant ports and has seen better days. I ordered a new Accel TPI baseplate.

The engine ran fine, 60 PSI when cold, 30 when warm. I just decided to change the oil after 10 miles to check for any problems, good thing I did too!

 

Those pits are where the leakage occurs. When mine started to leak there I filled the pits with JB Weld, 15 years ago, still holding strong.

Most auto parts stores should sell a coolant pressure tester kit, there is one that goes to the MityVac pump.

 

I "rented" a tool to check the coolant system at my local autozone...for free! All you do is pay with a credit card, and they refund your money when you return the tool....I think carquest does the same thing.....Before you buy the tool (kind of expensive)...check in your area for a parts store that "loans" tools.

I bought an 87 IROC with antifreeze in the water.....compression check was fine, but failed coolant pressure check, spark plugs looked normal(sooty, with tan electrodes)......since it passed the compression check and the plugs had not been "steam cleaned", I just replaced the intake manifold gaskets, and everything appears to be fine....runs like a champ. I will see how long my luck holds out before something bad happens.

Good luck to you.

 

UMMMMM, antifreeze is supposed to be in the water, isnt it? at least that is where I always put mine LOL

I believe I finally got my oil problems fixed, will find out more so the next oil change, but by looking at the dipstick things are looking good.

Now if I can figure out where to get gas down here, and I am not talking about the price at the pump either. Texaco/Shell plus whoever they supply admitted to having bad gas here, and dont know how much is still at the stations, and a lot of ppl I know are having problems with their vehicles. It was something to do with too much sulphur in the gas.

 

Did the same thing, guess it didn't fix it, hope the new intake takes care of it.

 

Flamingo, I think it is the other way around, that water is supposed to be in the antifreeze, actually (j/k). Good catch, there. I meant to say "antifreeze in the oil".

 

Gotta get those pits CLEAN, I used a wire brush and brake cleaner then put on the JB.

If you don't mind me asking....where did you get the Accel base and how much was it?

 

From http://www.cruzinperformance.com/ for $389 plus shipping, good stuff.

 

Looks like we are going through the same problem. Hope yours is just the intake. I pressure checked mine any only lost 5 psi over night. I beleive it is from a small radatior leak (hopefully just loose clamp). But the pressure would have dropped a lot faster if it is internall (someone told me.)

I am going to try some stop leak. My engine builder seems to think it is minor since it has never really ran and only been fired up three times. There is a good chance that their is a poor seal around the head bolts.

If you are interested I'll reply with my progress as well. Good luck.