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Taking out engine WITH tranny attached

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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 10:05 AM
  #1  
Dante93GTZ's Avatar
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From: East Tennessee
Car: 1992 Z28 Heritage Edition
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
Taking out engine WITH tranny attached

I am taking out my 305 TPI to get it (and the engine bay) cleaned up a bit. I have oil and tranny fluid leaking all over and thought taking it all out at once would be the best way to gain easy access to all gaskets.

I started the project late yesterday and will finish it hopefully tonight. If I am covering everything...

Drain coolant, oil, PS fluid, and tranny fluid.
Disconnect hoses and electrical and fuel lines.
Already taken out the driveshaft.

My car has headers and I just disconnected them to get them out of the way.

Aside from the three mounts (2 motor, one trans), are there any other connections to worry about?

I have never taken an auto tranny out so I have some concern.

Speedometer, Shift linkage, fill dipstick, cooler lines, and electrical connections still are a mystery to me.

I've tried doing searches but came up mainly empty.

Can anyone shed some light on some of the tranny connections there?
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 11:31 AM
  #2  
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From: North Central Indiana
Car: 86 IROC
Engine: 383
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44 IRS
the speedometer cable will unscrew from the tail shaft of the tranny

there is a 4prong connector above the tranny pan on the drivers side to unplug

remove the shift linkage that is also on the drivers side.

since you are pulling the motor and tranny as one unit(which is what did and i think it is teh best way to go) you can just unhook the tranny cooler lines at the radiator on the passenger side and they will come out with the tranny. there is a clip on the oil pan that holds them in place. you may need to bend the cooler lines a bit to clear the radiator support as the engine is lifted out but it is no big deal.

also be safe and pull the distributor for extra clearance at the firewall.

i dont think i took my crank pulley off when i pulled my motor so i am pretty sure it will clear the radiator support.

thats all i can think of off the top of my head, good luck
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 08:28 PM
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Two words:

"Tilt sling".
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 06:58 PM
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From: Bakersfield
Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
If you can put a plug in the end of the transmission you won't even need to drain the fluid. I use a yoke off of an old driveshaft.

I would disconnect the trans cooler lines at the transmission and the oil pan (funny, mine wasn't attached to the pan in any way, but then again it was on its third motor by the time I got it). That way you don't take any chances on damaging the lines. I have new lines because of that very thing (Sometimes your buddy doesn't watch things as well as you would).

The balancer/brackets cleared on my car and I left the distributor in. I just took the cap off. I will also repeat what was in the post just above (with emphasis) TILT SLING!!!!!!!!

Be very, very safe and pull the radiator. Trust me, you don't want to buy a new one!!!!!

You will also need to disconnect the throttle cable and remove it from the bracket mounted on the side of the plenum. You can use a pair of pliers to squeeze the wings on the cable where it mounts to the bracket and it will pop right out of the bracket.

You will need to disconnect the heater hose connection from the throttle body (if not included under disconnect hoses) and also the oil cooler lines from above the oil filter if so equipped.

If you have A/C, disconnect the compressor from the brackets and tie it to the firewall somewhere. Once the engine and trans are out you can sit a lawn chain in the engine bay and lay it on that while you clean the compartment. Saves having to pull a vacuum and recharge the system.

You will need to disconnect the positive and negative battery cables, and remove the wiring harness for the injectors / alternator / AC unit from the engine. Mine are run under the plenum which necessitates removing the plenum. If yours are still outside the plenum, you'll save yourself some work that way (although it looks cooler if all those wires are hidden.... IMHO of course)

You will need to disconnect the vacuum lines from the throttle body that go to the charcoal cannister as well. Also disconnect the IAC valve and the TPS switch. Disconnect the vaccum lines from the brake booster and the vent dashpots (the one next to the fuel pressure vacuum line) and the MAP sensor.

The connectors to the distributor will also have to be disconnected.

I know I have probably missed a few things but I'm tired and I need to get home from work!!!! I have church tonight!!!!!!!

Last edited by Captain C; Jun 10, 2004 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2004 | 12:14 AM
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From: Langley, BC, Canada
I did this about 3 weeks ago, jack the rear of the car up as high as you can and you dont need a tilt sling, just slowly lift the engine and have a friend lower the jack supporting the tranny(after youve removed the cross member). the engine with tilt on its own as you lift it out just keep lifting and pulling it foward and it clears everything no problem.

Probably took 5 minutes to get out, if that, and i did it by myself.

Its going back in a couple weeks.
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 02:39 AM
  #6  
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lol ....the car didnt level out after you removed the 1100 lbs of weight from the bay?

that still sounds like something id do.....sling? hell nah...jack stands!
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 03:09 AM
  #7  
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From: Langley, BC, Canada
actually the front end didnt raise very much at all, the car looks more or less normal with no engine. Though i did this on a 2nd gen a few years ago and it looked like it had a straight axle in the front afterwards.
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 01:23 PM
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lol....when i pulled the engine out of my parts car 86, the front raised like 3 damn inches....and the back springs and shock are way past gone so it sagged as it was....now it looks like its haulin ***...cept...not moving at all
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 06:45 PM
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From: East Tennessee
Car: 1992 Z28 Heritage Edition
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
Thanks for the info guys, one last thing.

I've got everything disconnected, but the engine is hooking on something. The way I had to route my lift chains, I believe the pass motor mount (attached to the engine) is hitting the mount on the crossmember.

I can't figure it out. The whole engine is in the \ position in the bay but it won't move forward or backwards, just up/down.

Anything I could've missed. I'm getting frustrated.
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 06:55 PM
  #10  
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From: Suffolk VA, Cleveland NY
Car: 84 Berlinetta
Engine: junk 350
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: Moser 4.56
I just pulled mine tonight, so I can relate. Mine ended up being a pack of ground wires on the back of the passenger head. (the engine, not the person passenger) After that, I found the pack on the driver head, and it came out. Don't forget the steel line going to the cat..
Good luck!
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 06:58 PM
  #11  
Dante93GTZ's Avatar
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From: East Tennessee
Car: 1992 Z28 Heritage Edition
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
Originally posted by Eats5.0's
I just pulled mine tonight, so I can relate. Mine ended up being a pack of ground wires on the back of the passenger head. (the engine, not the person passenger) After that, I found the pack on the driver head, and it came out. Don't forget the steel line going to the cat..
Good luck!
When the wires were attached, did the engine move forward at all? Mine seriously WILL NOT budge forward yet. As for the cat, don't have one - One of the other things I'm looking forward to doing is finally removing the A.I.R. lines from behind the engine.
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 07:15 PM
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did you take the driveshaft out of the rear of the tranny?
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 07:16 PM
  #13  
scottland's Avatar
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350HO
Transmission: M4
you need to jack the engine UP a bit before you can pull it forward. the motor mount brackets have to be clear of the motor mounts for it go anywhere.
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 07:28 PM
  #14  
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From: Suffolk VA, Cleveland NY
Car: 84 Berlinetta
Engine: junk 350
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: Moser 4.56
The engine moved forward about two inches, which gave me enough room to get to that 14mm nut. I had to adjust the tilter to get the passenger side to clear the motor mount. It wasnt' the easiest thing to do. I think that's the hardest part, getting the motor over the mount so it'll move.
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Old Jun 13, 2004 | 11:37 PM
  #15  
Dante93GTZ's Avatar
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From: East Tennessee
Car: 1992 Z28 Heritage Edition
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
Originally posted by ljnowell
did you take the driveshaft out of the rear of the tranny?
Yup, that and the torque arm.
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Old Jun 14, 2004 | 12:00 AM
  #16  
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did you drop the trans crossmember or just undo the mount? You really need to take the crossmember completely out to get the thing out of there. Course, I am just throwing darts in the dark here, you probably already did this.
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Old Jun 14, 2004 | 12:34 PM
  #17  
Dante93GTZ's Avatar
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From: East Tennessee
Car: 1992 Z28 Heritage Edition
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
Originally posted by ljnowell
did you drop the trans crossmember or just undo the mount? You really need to take the crossmember completely out to get the thing out of there. Course, I am just throwing darts in the dark here, you probably already did this.
Yup, its already out. Its really wierd because it is so stuck, it wont budge. and the motor mounts and trans mounts are already out.
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