Hi to you all and at last I'm posting I've been dilligently reading posts on all tbi related issues for months now and project firebird has just got under way at last. Owned the car for a year but just started working on it, need the wheels for work.
So here's my question hope you can help, I was getting a code for my EGR and cleaned everything up as suggested here and the code has gone. I'm still getting code 43 for the knock sensor. I've replaced the sensor and I was going to clean up the ESC module with the miracle fluid WD40, but wasn't sure exactly where it was and what it looked like. The haynes manual just got me ready to get the lighter fluid and burn it as a sacrifice to the gods (would of been as much use). So where is the module? Also does anyone know how to test if the wire is grounded? May be simple but a lot of this is new to me, so basic help needed please. I've looked up as many posts as possible on this but would like a bit of guidance on this. Is there a set of diagnostic routines I can do to isolate the problem?
My y-pipe to header gasket is about to be replaced. Could the noise from this set code 43? I've read advancing timing could help, if so its idling smoothly at about 4* now, what would be a good setting to offset the knock sensor. If the problem is the wire is it possible to just dissconnect it at the ESC module and re-route a new wire directly form there to the sensor, avoiding having to trace the wire into the loom and the back of the engine where everything is lost scewdrivers and nuts. Thanks for your help

 

Welcome to the boards! Usually the only mechanical things on a car that can cause false knock are roller rockers and a gear driven timing set. I would not suspect that is your problem. The ESC module is on the firewall on the drivers side. I am looking up a way to check the ESC and will report back. I have never had to do this. It may be cheaper to replace it.

 

This may help.

 

page 2

 

thank you for the reply and the charts and diagnostic's..where did you get that information from? First chance I get I'll follow it all through and find the problem and let you know what I find. I didn't expect to get such a good response CHEERS! Thanks as well shifty.

 

The charts & info came from a GM service manual. Haynes & Chilton won't have info like that.

 

Thanks trickster for the chart. Today was the first chance I've had to mess with the wiring. I even bought a multitester, absolutley no use till I know how it works!! So I checked my wires as best as could and all seemed fine I cleaned a ground terminal on the drivers side strut. I'd hit the stage today where it was fix it, pay someonelse to or buy a knew car. I read a lot of posts on hear to do with ground terminals been corroded and causing glitchs. To frustrated to hunt down the ground so just snipped the wire and made a new ground using 16 gauge and a ring terminal to the strut. The chart you posted probably saved me a few hundred $$$ so many thanks. Do you think grounding it on the strut will be ok? If not should I just drill a hole somewhere in the firewall and attach it. Dude I'm thrilled at fixing it. Mind you in my frustration I decieded to tighten up the tbi pods/fuel regulator thing on top of the throttle body and snapped the bracket holding down the thing. My next post will read car on fire!!

 

Great info is it the same diag. for the TPI 350?ALso i just got the code last night when racing a newer camaro on the freeway it went away and hasent come back yet we ever doing 120.my car didnt seem to want to pull anymore after that i know i only have 2.77 gears but these cars are capable of maxing out the 145 speedo.Their is a very high pitched and fast paced metal rattle at high rpms would this be setting off my knock sensor and causing that code as it was only one time.Should i just bypass my knock sensor my engine is fiarly lound with the exaust and everything im thinking it would just be easyer to bypass it and never have to worry about false knock.Thanks