im doing an oil change in a week or two.I use valvoline maxlife 10w30.what advantages will i see by switching to synthetic

 

Basics?

Lasts longer before breaking down.. in fact, contamination is the problem, not breakdown.

Takes better to pressures and shear than mineral oil.

This means you will see less wear, and trust me it does work. Personally I have a hard time suggesting it on a car, because I have seen quite a few regular oil change cars go 250,000+ miles on mineral oil, which is usually about the breaking point for any gasoline vehicle engine. I would consider it more of a security blanket for being stupid

 

Call me stupid, but I enjoy the fact that my engines will be a lot closer to original specs due to less wear and heat damage all the way to 250,000 miles.

Manmade synthetics reduce wear by providing a better lubricant film in the load zone or nonconforming surface of bearings, gears, pistons, rotary shaft seals, vacuum and diaphragm pumps, valves, and hydraulic systems. Reduced maintenance, parts replacement, and energy costs often result. Synthetic lubricants also provide long life because of their enhanced thermal and oxidative stability, which reduce the formation of sludge, corrosion, and deposits.

The major drawback to synthetic lubricants is initial cost, which is typically about three times higher than mineral-based products. However, the initial price premium is usually recovered over the effective life and protection of the product, which is about three times better/longer than conventional lubricants. Because of the initial expense, using synthetics in systems experiencing leakage or contamination is not a practical choice.

It is most important to select the correct synthetic gear, bearing, hydraulic, and crankcase oils; and the high/extreme pressure greases. There are several important variables that should be considered when selecting and applying synthetic lubricants. These factors include pour and flash points, demulsibility, lubricity, rust and corrosion protection, thermal and oxidation stability, antiwear properties, compatibility with seals and paints, and compliance with testing and standard requirements.

Products in each category are not necessarily interchangeable or compatible. These two features depend on a variety of interrelated factors, and each application requires an individual analysis.

A properly selected synthetic product provides the same basic lubrication functions as mineral oils. However, synthetic lubricants can be formulated with a combination of features to satisfy specific application requirements that petroleum products cannot usually match. Performance characteristics of synthetic lubricants derive from the physical and chemical properties of the base fluid and effects of additives introduced into the final product. Physical and chemical qualities include viscosity-temperature behavior, low-temperature fluidity, volatility, compatibility with paints and elastomers (seals), ability to dissolve chemical additives, compatibility with petroleum, and hydrolytic stability. Additives are introduced to influence, to a greater or lesser degree, oxidation stability, load-bearing ability, and corrosion protection. The list below shows the relative performance characteristics of several types of synthetic lubricants.

Types
There are several major classes of synthetic lubricants:

Synthesized hydrocarbons, such as polyalphaolefins and dialkylated benzenes, are the most common type. These products provide performance characteristics closest to mineral oils, and are compatible with them. They serve as engine and turbine oils, hydraulic fluids, gear and bearing circulating oils, and compressor lubricants.

Organic esters, such as dibasic acid and polyol esters, easily accept additives, which enhance their applicability for finished product formulations, such as crankcase oils and compressor lubricants.

Phosphate esters are well suited for fire resistance applications.

Polyglycols are applied for lubricating gears and bearings, and compressors handling hydrocarbon gases or refrigerants.

Silicones are chemically inert, nontoxic, fire resistant, and water repellent. They have low pour points and volatility, good low-temperature fluidity, and good oxidation and thermal stability at very high temperatures. These are excellent for underbody, body, and bushing lubrication.

It is important to remember that synthetics are as different from each other, as they are from petroleum lubricants. Their performance and applicability to any individual situation depend on the quality of the synthetic base stock and additive package. They are not necessarily interchangable and should not be mixed with other synthetic of other base classifications. If you run low on synthetic oil and no oil of the exact type is available, it is advisable to refill with mineral oil instead of a different type of synthetic. Reactions between the various types of chemical families can result in the destruction of both oils, complete loss of lubrication, and a failed engine.

That's why I use only one type of synthetic, rather than buy whatever is on sale and risk mixing base types. Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec are not to be mixed. PAO (polyalphaolefin) oils and Diesters just don't mix, and will cause a disaster in the crankcase.

Just thought you might be interested.

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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited April 15, 2001).]

 

Yikes! Its a tech article in disguise as a mildly-mannered post.

 

After reading this topic and another one about oil I'm def switching to synthetic. Thanks for the great advice.

 

THANKS for the great article.Whta type of oil do you suggest i use

 

One clarification then.

I am currently NOT using a synthetic oil on my IROC. However, I would really like to switch. The above states that it would be OK assuming that there are no leaks or "contamination". My IROC does not leak any oil. However, I assume that "contamination" is referring to coolant contamination in the crankcase. How could I tell...

Also, since I autocross this IROC, I pretty much visit all points on the tach... I would be more comfortable with the synthetic if I can safely use it...

 

WOW hard to improve on the posts above
But when i started using synthetic oil I noticed a dramatic increse in oil life I went almost 5 months without changing the oil and it still looked in great condition when I changed it. "Not suggesting anyone go 5 months without an oil change" And I swear that i am getting alot better fuel economy.And thats with the cheap autozone exxon sure flow synthetic.

 

How about any thoughts on synthetic oil causing oil leaks on an engine with "high" mileage? Is that a fact or fiction?

 

My car has 151,000 miles on it and I just put in Mobil1 10-30 synthetic oil. It's been 2 weeks so far and no bad signs. Yet it's still way to early to tell anything I have noticed my car starts much smoother and quicker. Although it might just be my imagination. Also check out the oil filter link I found on a post awhile back. Just food for thought.
http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html

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'87 Trans Am:
(Engine)
305 TPI
180 Degree Thermostat
JET Fan Switch
TB Bypass
Accel 300+ 8.8 Racing Wires
Accel Super Coil
Bosch Platinium Plugs
Custom Ram Air with K&N
Removed Emissions Equipment & Cat.
(Stereo)
Full Kenwood Excelon System

 

vader why in the hell would any one want an engine to last to 250,000 miles. i use the cheap stuff k mart or wal mart sells

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

[This message has been edited by ede (edited April 16, 2001).]

 

All i know is im definately switching to synthetic.

Check out My Trans Am:
http://hometown.aol.com/italianknight178/index.html

 

Synthetic is goood. (Except for breaking an engine in with)

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Central Indiana Camaro Club member since Oct. 2000
1991 Z28 - 51,000 miles.
All power options leather. 350 TPI:
K&N; Airfoil; Custom 'Ram-Air'; SLP Headers; Slp Runners;Poweraid TB spacer;
Fastchip;
Borla Catback 50% open; Dual factory Cats;
March underdrive pulleys;
Accel Extreme 9000 wires, Accel coil; Hypertech rotor & cap; NGK platinum plugs;
manual fan switch;
TB coolant bypass; smog pump delete
Pirelli P7000 Z245/50/R16 all season tires;
Energy suspention motor mounts
S Cobra Radar Detector; Z28 SS Floormats;
Technalon IV car cover (now on my dad'a 2000 Berger SS).

 

Synthetic causes leaks - yes and no.

I switched mine to synthetic with 123k on the clock. I had never driven the car before (the engine came out of a totalled wreck), and cleaned everything off before installing it. For the 1st year, I had a "weep" from the front of the oil pan, enough that I kept a piece of cardboard under the car in the garage.

For the past 4 months, after an oil change, there has not been a drip on the cardboard (currently 140k miles). The last time I had the car up in the air, the pan was collecting dust, but was no longer wet. At least the synthetic I use has the tendency to swell seals, so at first, yes, it leaked - now, it doesn't.

The number 1 complaint I've heard about Mobil 1 over the years is leaks. The #2 complaint is consumption. So, blanket statements like "synthetics cause..." are unjustified, because formulations vary, like Vader said.

By the way, Vader, good synopsis. Except, my brand just happens to be a blend of polyalphaolefin and diester bases (exact formulation is a trade secret).

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere w/open diff & slipping tranny. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

 

My GTA is rapidly approaching the 200,000 Mile mark and I still don't burn a drop. Leak? Yes. But that is the damn intake manifold, which has been a problem since day one when I bought the car new. I am just going to fix it with money (Miniram here I come). Not that the I expect less leaking problems with the MR, but at least it won't be such a pain to R&R.

As for older motors, I just recently got an "oldie but goodie" (over 20 years old and unknown mileage due to the speedo only registering to 99,999.9) for the wife and switched to Mobil One on it also; no leaks/oil still looks great.

Ede, I don't mind rebuilding an engine at 250,000 because I WANT TO, not because I HAVE TO.

 

Ed,

I got it, even if no one else did.

I try to use the cheap Wal Mart stuff too. Unfortunately, they've been out of the "cheap stuff" lately, so I have to source it somewhere else. I know you must have about a small tanker's worth in your garage, since I know how you like the "cheap" oil also. You just seem to use more of the green "cheap stuff" than I do, or at least hold on to a lot more of it. Next time I see it at Wally World, I'm getting a skid load. It might be Exxon oil by then.

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Later,
Vader
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"What a Day..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Synthetic oil doesnt break down as quickly but it all depends on the brand. Mobil 1 full synthetic is the best oil you can buy.

 

full synthetic oil will only cause leaks if you use the synthetic and then switch back to regular oil. It softens the seals and the regular oil is to heavy. your car will leak like crazy.