Just wanted to clarify some parts on my non cc qjet as I rebuild it here, i've rebuilt a few before, but none with any success, so:

What are those little metal rods pressed into the air valve, going straight down? What do they do?

When I remove the air valve, in 2 crevices in the float bowl there are 2 1.5" long or so (brass?) tubes. They are just sitting there, not sure if they fell off something or not, should I be connecting them to something?

Can anyone tell me how I would be able to identify my primary metering rods? They are too thin to have any markings that I can find. Do I just go by the # on the jets, and say the rods are matching?

I'm sure i'll have more questions as I go to put this together again, so i'll probably be posting again here, thanks a bunch
-J

 

I tapped the pin that holds the throttle pump lever inwards, and now it is stuck in between part of the carb and its original place. How do I tap the pin back outwards to hold the lever in, it appears to be stuck.
I'm on the verge of just using a dremel to cut it out, and then using a cotter pin...

 

By "air valve", do you mean "air horn"? That's the top assembly of the carb. The "air valves" are the flaps over the secondaries in the air horn.

There should be 4 tubes pressed into the underside of the air horn. The two sitting in the main body wells fell out and need to be pressed back into the air horn. They mix air into the fuel as it is pulled into the air stream to help it mix better as it goes into the engine through the intake tract.

Don't dremel the accelerator pump pin. I use either a small screwdriver behind the pin to pry it back in place, or if that fails, a small pair of wire cutters to grip and pry it back enough to get a screwdriver behind it. Note for future reference: Only drive the pin back far enough to release the pump arm.

 

err yea, I meant air horn. Just to clarify though, looking from the bottom of the carb up, the 4 circles are the butterflys? but looking from the top, the 4 rectangular flaps, those would be air valves?
yea, I figured for some reason I might be able to get the roll pin all the way out, then push it back in from the outside again... not happening... I've been trying with needle nose pliers, i'll try with wire cutters, but i'm not having much luck... in case I did have to cut it then tap the rest of it out, could I buy a generic roll pin at a hardware store? or is this a carburetor specific piece? I know I can buy a kit from edelbrock with 5 of them, and a few other gizmos I don't need (#1984 or so...).... any other suggestions? a nail maybe?
just out of curiosity, when I have the carb off the car, assembled and in my hands, if I rotate the throttle lever (the part that the throttle cable is clipped onto), the primaries open (the butterflies, from the underside..), but the secondaries don't, even when I make sure the lockout pin isn't engaged, is this normal? I figured maybe vacuum would be needed to open them? Or am I needing to severly bend a tab?

Thanks -J

 

k, so I can't edit my post, computer just times out... anyway:

(*EDIT*)
A new roll pin came with my carb rebuild kit, so if I can't get the old one back in, i'll just cut it off and tap in the new one...
Also, I know this kit is fairly generic, but I have a few parts i'm not sure about: There is a green and a black seal, the green one is slightly smaller, and one is meant to go on the accelerator pump, which one? The green one makes a good seal, but I figured it may interefere with the pumps ability to spring back up...?
Also, the fuel filter I bought has a black seal mated to one side (that's the fuel line side right?) do I still need to use another gasket in there too? say a whitish/clear one?



Thank you very much -J

 

The bottom plate contains the thottle butterfly plates. The air horn contains the secondary air valves and the primary choke butterfly.

Memory is fading, but I don't recall any seal on the accelerator pump. The seals you are talking about sound like choke housing seals for hot air type chokes (which electric choke carbs don't use). This isn't your model (the non-CC diagram didn't show it) http://www.carburetion.com/Quads/E4MC.htm , but it shows #'s 67 & 68 - if you have #67, then you use #68.

The fuel filter seal end goes towards the inlet nut. There should be a white gasket to go on the inlet nut itself ( http://www.carburetion.com/diags/4mv.jpg , #59)

 

aces! yea, seems every diagram of a q-jet is different, mine is a combination of those two.. Ok I put the clear seal on the fuel filter, that's fine. but as for the accelerator pump, the 67-68, were a metal ring, and then a seal. I have the metal ring and 2 seals, the green and black.. I went with the green, it hugged the shaft better, and I assume the black was for hot air choke....

Is the piece of plastic (nylon?) on the power piston replaceable?

I got everything back together, and will be tuning it when it warms up, I don't really want to be standing in front of the car turning screws while it's -20, in the garage it's a tad warmer....

Of the 4 tubes that hung down from the air valve, the two that well off were larger, and I tapped them back in, no problem, but the two that stayed there, seem to be completely plugged up. I assume they need to be open right? I had the air horn soaking in solvent for at least 16 hours total, is there another way to get those little tubes cleaned out? A stronger cleaner?

oh and one last thing, is there supposed to be a number stamped on the primary rods? I can't find a thing to identify them...

Thanks for all your help so far -J

 

Okay, exactly how old are you?

There are two numbers and a letter stamped on each one. Get a magnifying glass, they're small.

 

What kind of cleaner were you using? That should have been long enough with your typical carb cleaner and blow gun.

Your typical engine cleaning solvent isn't strong enough.

 

hmm, ok, I think they're still loaded with crud and it's covering the #'s... I was going to hit them with a wire wheel....
Yea, i'm using some cheapo "solvent" from princess auto, $20/20L... I figured it'd be good enough, since carb cleaner is around $20/4L... Well looks like now is a good time to get some, i'll soak the air horn (hope it submerges in 4L...) and the primary metering rods... yea, I don't have a compressor, so a blow gun is out...

 

You've got to have some means of blowing out the passages after soaking. Get some canned air or something. Or a cheap pancake air compressor.

Something.

 

I usually buy carb cleaner in the 4L can for soaking, and use an aerosol can to blow out the passages after.

 

yea, I was going to hold off on an air compressor until I could afford one large enough to do everything I need, such as a die grinder for head porting (boy do those ever suck up air... 18CFM continuous??)
but I do have a can of compressed air right in front of me for my computer, so that should work...
Apeiron you're in Salmon arm now eh? I'm from the okanagan, how you liking the weather there compared to Edmonton? hehe, it's been -20ish here for a while, and I know it was warmer in Vernon...
I guess i'll drop by Canadian tire and pick up some 'Dunk' today...

 

An aerosol can of carb cleaner with the little nozzle tube used after soaking in the "real" stuff would do the job, I'd think. But, I've never tried it.

 

It works for me, at least. Would be nice to have compressed air to blow the last of the solvent out though, I suppose.

 

In case some one browses this thread in the future and is having a problem with the roll pin setup:

Hardware stores don't usually have a roll pin in that size (3/32" I think..) at least not when I looked, there is one in the rebuild kit, but only one... and mine was about 1/16" longer than the original, so when I went to tap it inwards to take off the accelerator pump lever, it would bottom out against the air horn wall before even letting the arm go! (use wire cutters here, they seem to be the only thing that'll grip it well enough..) Then a flat blade to pry it back to it's original position... ok, but what I did was:

Grab a little finishing nail, 3/32" by about 1" if you have one laying around, like I did, throw it in the vice with about 1/4 of the pointy end in the vice, hammer it sideways. You end up with a little L shaped "tool". Put that on the air horn side of the roll pin, you should just have enough room on the air horn side to slide in your flate blade screwdriver, pry that outwards until the roll pin is almost completely out. Then once you have enough sticking out to grab, use your wire cutters/needle nose pliers to grab it and pull it out.

That was probably the most difficult part of a q-jet rebuild (along with trying to get the primary metering rods in the jets, and getting the choke rod in right..), and the least well documented solution.
-J

 

sorry, i'm kinda beating this to death.

but as I tried to put this back on (after soaking the carb, blowing out those 4 little tubes on the bottom of the air horn), I started the car, it barely caught after cranking for a while, started up, went to 2000RPM, (fast idle now I guess), then after about 1 second, went down to 1000RPM then died... I couldn't get it to crank over again and start. (keep in mind it's roughly -20C now)

I checked under the hood, I had put the air cleaner on, I was going to leave it on until it got up to temp, then set the mixture, idle etc... I took the air cleaner off, and there was gas all over the top of it...? mostly towards the front side. there was also gas below the fuel inlet on the intake.

I had tightened the fuel filter nut on well enough, as well as the line...

any idea's as to why this might have happened? over tightening the line? fuel filter in backwards? ( I have the black grommet side out), I've never used that white gasket on the filter nut in my previous attemps, maybe skip that??
Thanks -J

 

The filter nut needs a gasket. Some go on the end beyond the threads, some go on the shoulder up by the flats.

The filter gasket only seals the filter to the nut. The nut still needs to be sealed to the body.

 

Well just for future info, what happened was when I was rebuilding it, I mixed up the float with one I had laying around... turns out it was from a CC-Qjet... so the plastic cover for it held it down, wouldn't let it "float", and overflowed, leaking all over the place... Plus the primary metering rods seized... ?

Well I swapped to the right float, now, finally the car started..... however still spewing fuel from the fuel inlet... ???

I think i'll remove the fuel filter and see if it may fix it, try and narrow down the problem....
Also, when the car ran here, for the 30 seconds or so I let it run before noticing the fuel leak, it ran really rough, shaking the car left and right like it had the lumpiest cam in the world...?

Another update: Turns out the original white gasket was still on the fuel inlet, so when I added one, it caused a leak. Remember kids: Always remove the old gasket when putting in a new one, avoid leaks!