I've heard many different things about AC.Does it actully rob power when NOT engaged? How much does the compressor weigh compared to an AC Delete Pulley.Is the Delete Pulley even necassary if I can route a shorter belt ignoring the AC

Thanks

 

it douz not rob power when not engaged.
the compresor is about 7-10 lbs
yes you can run a new belt, a lot of guys do this. do a search this was posted a few days ago. The eazyest way is to switch the tencher to a rib one(you can get it at auto zone for like $20). this is for 88-92 setups

 

I beg to differ but let me have my say...
ANY drag on engine rotation does suck power.
An alternator does rob power as does even the power steering pump.
NOW how much in relation to......
Engaged, I'd say a good 2-5 HP,
Disengeaded, I'd say a good 3 HP.
IN REALITY under your hood, negotiable.
ESPECIALLY IF IT'S A HOT DAY! & ya got working AC system!
But yeah, it will take some HP to turn any accessory. Even waterpump.

That's why some cars ditch belt pully systems for drag racing, to regain that extra few HP to possibly win race.

 

are you saying that the grooved tensioner is on the 88-92s? cause my 91 doesn't have a grooved tensioner on it.

 

What are you talking about? Grooved tensioner? You cannot run a different belt. I have tried everything with my 2.8 to do the same. You have to get an A/c Delete pulley, they are always on ebay.

 

this is what am talking about

 

here are a few other ways

 

So the delete pulley isnt necassary??

 

if you get a groved pully you can do this
this is my set up!!!

 

I dont know about "Grooved pulleys" .I'm just looking on Ebay for delete pulleys...

 

i seen one on e-bay a few weeks ago
you can do any thing with some tought

 

My question is...is the pulley necassary?

Can I just run a shorter belt and avoid where the compressor was?

 

what size mot do u have and do you have pic of it if so ill show you how to do it

 

3.1 V6

No pic

 

Honestly I don't know how you come up with an estimate that it uses less when engaged... but your estimate IS fairly accurate. Depending on the charge level, an engaged AC compressor on a system in proper condition uses 2-3 hp. Disengaged, .05hp or less. The A/C Clutch causes very little drag when disengaged. The only downside is the rotational weight of the larger belt and the extra pulley. Removing an A/C that's working properly will net you in the order of .1 hp while dumping the value of your car down anywhere from $500 to $2000. Weigh the benefits

 

My numbers are ESTIMATES
I do take into account the "age/output" of "our v6" mills. This one engine is a 1988 engine, probably not rebuilt, making it 17 years old by now.
Older more worn down an engine, with a working AC compressor, old style, may even take away more than 5 HP. Disengaged compressor will also lose ya HP due to worn mill driving the pully belts.
Point being is that, yeah, HP is lost with ANY parastatic engine accessory.
Which is one reason for electric fans.
No power drain due to less rotation on water pump-to operate fan blades, yet the HP loss due to the necessary alternator usage may negate "those gains".
Modern technology is helping regain much horsepower once lost thru drive belt accessory pullies.
How much is so open to exact amswers of the Dyno that the car was tested upon.
Me?
I'd rather have a working AC system than a few more HP. Anyday.

 

This is what I am debating doing to mine. My problem is "will the crank pulley slip?" without the 180* grip contact from the stock angle off the WP. I am going to an electric WP and am debating if I can get away without a dummy pulley in its place.

The next issue is "will the powersteering (P.S.) slip if I run the A/C belt on the hotter months?" I will ultimately someday just entirely remove the A/C all together- but that will be several years due to the fact I just put a brand new R134 system into the car 2 years ago for my wife- she drives it mainly for now. When I finally break down and buy here another car I will scrap the A/C but for now I will be installing the electric WP by next summer (Is my goal)

 

This is my current option without any worries of belt slippage. I am originally planning on running an idler pulley (spare Alt pullet milled smooth) temporarly until the day I do remove the A/C. Then I can simply remove this Idler pulley and the A/C and run the solid belt routing on the top right photo

 

The BIG problem with Electric Water Pump systems
seems to have always been & still is
Reliability & the ability to keep up wth demand of the road situation.
Meaning, MOST electric water pumps seem for "racing purposes" only.
Regular street use of electric water pumps is cost prohibitive & not as effective as rotation driven assemblies still in use since the days of the 1904 to 1909 Model T engine.

Look at NASCAR, see any electric water pumps yet?
This is one example.

NOW with power steering systems, they seem to have "made a leap" to electric power steering pumps.
Take that "to spend money on electric water pump set up" & buy a great stock that will appreciate in value for the future.

Or invest the time & money to score a great running 3.4 & those HP & Torque losses will be thing of past!

 

Karl, ( RFTC= Vsixtoy). I know many people that have been running Meziere electric waterpumps in place of their cam driven LS1 pumps daily for everyday street use with absolute not one recorded problem of failure to date- three Vettes and two Impalas

That pump is identical to the assembly I intend to use, its just mounted into a remote housing rather than the factory LS1 housing- same pump, same reliabilty. Meziere has now been proven reliable for years of daily street use.

LS1 pumps
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...p119b&x=12&y=9

The remote pump I intend to use
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...BBBAF1BA318%7D

Dean

 

A NEW CODE IS CRACKED!!!!
OK those electric pumps are "much better than items in days past?"
What's the drain on wallet?
I'd figured that.....
Is the cost worth it?
When ya got a new mill & employing all those new toys, I could see the cost/effective ratio.
But an old worn down mill?

 

I think it throws off the computer if I'm not to be mistaken. If you route a shorter belt everything turns quicker. Thats why you can't just get the non a/c belt. On older cars you can or non computer cars, but out 2.8's need the delete pulley.

 

Nope, got nothing to do with one another. You can yank off your belt entirely and the computer will still run fine until the battery drains enough from lack of juice due to no alt, and/or the temp goes through the roof due to no water flow from the pump turning.

 

Anyone with a Serp belt system, If you have never tried this on any car before, then you should experiment for fun.

First warm the car to operating temp so the motor can revv properly without harm and the coputer goes into standard closed loop.

Then yank off the serpentine belt and fire the motor and rev it a few times for kicks- see how much faster the damn thing will rev without drag. DO NOT RUN IT FOR MORE THAN ABOUT 30-45seconds with the belt off and the waterpump not turning, You will overheat the motor and hotspot the heads.

 

Yeah. And the length of the belt has nothing to do with how fast the accesories are turning.

Reving faster. Which is why we put on an underdrive pulley.

 

Then why was I told I need a A/c delete pulley? Look at my old post. Do a search

 

If you just by-pass the ac pully, the belt will not reach from the top of the ps pump to the tensioner, it will hit the wp pully.

Also, you wont be getting alot of tension.

A previous board member used a different ps bracket which raised the pump high enough to just clear the wp pully. But he didnt have alot of tension on the tensioner.

Your best bet is to just get the idle pully and do it right.

 

Thank you :hail: