OK here's the deal I need to switch from the cc to vacum distributor from what I understand I also need to go to a coil ignition. What else do I need and when I put the coil on where does it plug to besides the distributor?

Thank for all the help.

 

Welcome aboard.

First, we'd better understand why you are making this change.

2nd, all spark ignitions (as far as I know) use a coil of some type. Some vacuum/mechanical advance distributors have the coil built into the cap, others mount it remotely. The in-cap type is typically simplier, depending upon what you already have, and only requires a power wire and tach wire.

 

Thanks for the welcome. OK the reason, I have put an edlebrock carb on my 1987 5.0L 4 bbl, I bought this car new so I know everything that has been done to it. The distributor that is on it now is the computer control one that came on the car new. When I had the carb put on I was told (and I didn't think about it) that it will not run very well because the timming will not be advanced, so I need to put a vacum distributor on and I was thinking about an MSD ignition but I'm open to suggestions.

 

Save yourself $160 and skip the MSD box, if that is what you're refering to when you say "MSD ignition". You won't see any gain from it...at least not $160 worth of gain, not on anything short of a blown race motor. I know this from experience. Just get a good distributor (don't redo a junkyard one, it'll cost you more in the long run and not work as good, again from experience), high output coil, low resistance wires (look for low ohms per foot, MSD's are good if you have the $$), and just some good ol' ACDelco plugs with the proper gap and you'll reap all there is to gain from your ignition provided you get your timing dialed in for your motor. I was amazed at just how much difference the ignition can make when you have good compontents and your timing amount and rate done right. Follow Damon's tech article on this site for getting started on timing. The only thing I would suggest is to hook your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum vs. ported like Damon suggests. But try both and see what you like better.

HTH

 

Original owner - cool. And rare.

Okay, I'll continue the drill - why did you change the carb? You aren't going to gain any performance with an aftermarket, especially another demand-based secondary type such as the Performer.

But, if you continue down that path, I'll 2nd Bunk - any good electronic distributor with vacuum/mechanical advance will do the job. Summit typically has a good deal on a large cap, coil-in-cap HEI that will only require power and tach wires. If you want a small cap remote coil distributor like you have, then they are available as well (including MSD). You shouldn't have to get a different coil (I may be wrong there - I have an in-cap coil, myself), but the power goes to the positive terminal on the coil, the distributor signal goes to the negative terminal.

If you have an automatic transmission, you will lose the torque converter lock-up function by going non-CC. You'll probably lose gas mileage compared to a properly functioning CC system as well. And, you won't be emissions legal, either.

Rant complete.

Over.

 

My tale, Nov bought a car so the firebird set for about 3-4 weeks went out to start it and it would not start, not the battery. Called some friends they said it sounded like a blocked fuel filter or bad floats. Went out a bought the carb (don’t know nothing about rebuilding no carb) put it on and it didn’t run any better, changed the distributor cap, rotor and ignition module still nothing. I knew my limitations so had the car towed in, the guys called and said the timing chain slipped a tooth. They put a new chain on and were still having trouble keeping the car running so they disconnected the exhaust and found the cat totally blocked. They set the timing to run with the new carb but no timing advance. So here I am bugging you guys with questions. Oh buy the way moving to a county that doesn't have emissions. This is my cars stats if it helps:

1987 Firebird Formula
305 (5.0L) 4bbl carb
5 speed manual
About 1 year ago I put a new transmission in along with a clutch
The engine has 140115 miles and when it was in the shop the compression test was good.
Since bringing the car to Tucson the paint went to s#!t and it needs interior work. Until this the car has been great and has not given us any problems I guess it was time.

So any suggestions would be greatly appreciated but keep in mind I’m a novice. I’ve done the transmission and I changed out the carb so I’m not totally inept.

Thank for all the help.

 

If you've had the rest of it fixed, why not just put the original carb back on?

 

Well I did that when I got the car back the car would not run so I think there is something wrong with the carb.

 

In my opinion, you're better off spending your money fixing the original carb than you are going through the non-CC aftermarket conversion process. It may be too late to take the Edelbrock back, but I'd certainly try.

You don't have to be able to rebuild the carb (although, you could probably learn). Rebuilt units are available. Holley seems to do a decent job, based on reports, but most any parts store should be able to get you a rebuilt factory carb.

You might think, "But that's $350." So? What did you pay for the Edelbrock? Add to that the cost of a distributor, and TCC lock-up (if auto tranny). Etc., etc., etc.

 

You won't need TCC lockup because it a manual tranny. I was in the same boat that you were in about a year ago. GM Performance Parts sells a good vaccum distributor w/ coil in cap. I put one on mine and everything from my old distributor fit right back on: coil and cap.

 

can I see some part numbers? that'd be great.

going from cc to carb on a 92... I need to know if the wiring harnesses are compadible too.

 

Check eBay. You can get a new performance large-cap HEI for $90 plus shipping ($10-15 range, IIRC).

Is what harness compatible?

I missed the 5-speed part (skim through so many threads each day, don't have time to read each line - typically look at the info under the username to get such info, missing in this case).

 

will the electrical just plug straight into my current situation?

 

No. External coil type ignition, the power wire goes to the coil. Coil-in-cap type ignition, the power wire plugs into the cap. It's easy to modify, though, to make it fit.

 

maybe it's jsut so easy that I can't understand- but um I'm worried that I'm going to F- something up.

 

part numbers?
wiring examples?


help?

 

Token I'm still looking if I find anything I'll let you know.

 

Bump.

 

Canadian carb cars came bone stock with a vacuum advance on the dist. No CC anything for my LG4. Mine has vac. advance for the dist. but I have a bit of a problem. My vacuum lines fell apart and I am not sure what goes where. I am wondering where 3 vacuum lines go, the EGR, EFE and Dist. Threre are 3 TVS's with a snake pit of vac. lines. The label under the hood is missing. The vac lines were so bad, pieces were missing and I can't tell where they should go. Looks like I may be able to figure out the egr since that line was mostly together. I'm gonna take some pics and hopefully someone will know.

If someone has the label under the hood for a Cdn. LG4, please post it. Seems like many folks would find it handy.

 

send me the pics too.Im pretty sure I know where everything oges

 

I was gonna take pics today but the snow was coming. Have to replace a fuel pump too so I put it off. Nothing serious, just leaking from the vent holes.

I'll pick your brain on Saturday. Pick mine too, you can ask me where just about where any bolt belongs on a 3rd gen and I can identify the different places/or only one that the bolt belongs. Been a while since I stripped one down to a shell but I think I can remember. Sharing info is great. It was much harder before the interweb came online. A few books and thats all I could fall back on in the early days.

 

Hey c130amt, post some pics and part #'s. That might help people understand what's going on.