I was wondering is it possible to run a set of heads off a 1963 327 out of a vette on my vin "E" 305 88 trans am. I am tired of the lack of power out of my T.B.I, so I am switching the upper end. I have a Holley strip Domantor single plain intake, with 1.94 double hump cylinder heads, with a 650 Holley. I got the upper end off ower old bracket engine, the heads have been cleaned up and reassembled, the cam I am running is a 290 advertized duration cam with .487 lift. Thanks any help would be great.

 

"Depends".

Want to use your current accessories as currently mounted? No.

Not worried about mounting your current accessories? Yes.

 

I am going to get rid of the A.R.I equipment and the a.c. the heads are not drilled for the alternator bracket but that will only cost about 50 bucks. So no I do not care how the accseries are ran.

 

your 305's not gonna like that intake, get the dual plane street dominator, it works much better than single planes on these motors. i had a torker II intake on this current motor, fastest was a 14.49, my new intake has supported me to a 13.75, and i have a ton left in her. the only problem i could see with that cylinder head is the bigger combustion chamber will drop your compression ratio since they are 64cc instead of the stock 58cc heads. get a set of 416's, do a p/p and the bigger 1.94/1.50 valves, you'll be more than happy!

 

There's more than holes missing. There's material missing as well.

 

What do you mean by material missing? Are you talking about enbosed spots on the head for the alternator bracket? If so I went and checked the head, and your right. I was wondering if I could run the lower mounting bracket for the alternator, or will that interfere with the power steering pump.

 

What else do you have done to your engine to get those E.T. numbers mw66nova? I would like to just get out of the 15.5 range. My goal for the 305 is 14.5.

 

www.cardomain.com/id/mw66nova

look at the bottom of page one for specs.

it helps that my car weighs only 3045lbs. too.

oh, and i want your monza.

 

Basically, no, they will not work.

That's why you can get them so cheap.... they don't fit anything that's been made in the last 35 years or so.

That sounds like about as mismatched a combination as you could possibly put together. An intake like that, a cam like that, and TBI gears and converter, is a recipe for a car with less acceleration than stock around town, and will use 3 to 4 times as much gas in the process.

Instead of unbolting and re-bolting big shiny things on top of the engine that are easy to get to, if you want to actually make an improvement, change out the weak links in the car as a whole.

First is the exhaust; every piece, from the heads to the street, but DO NOT get anything that will blot up to L03!!! I'd suggest a chassis-specific set of headers for a 88 350 TPI, either SLP or Edelbrock TES; a Catco or similar high-flow cat; and the 3" cat-back from your choice of mfr, such as Hooker, Dynomax, Blowmaster, Edelbrock, Borla, SLP, etc.

Next is the heads. THE HEADS to look for, are a set off of a 87-up TPI or carbed car; NOT 350 heads from anything of any age. Casting number 081 is what you need. No other will do as well for the purpose at hand.

Then gears, and a converter. If your car is an auto, it has 2.73 gears. 3.42s seem to work about the best with TBI. Your stock converter stalls at about 1400 RPM behind a 305; a 2400-2800 RPM stall will make an unbelievable difference to the way the car launches.

Your motor has a roller cam. You don't want to downgrade to a flat-tappet. Look at the various FI-compatible grinds from Comp, Crane, Lunati, and so on; stay away from Edelbrock, and any "cheap" grinder. You DO NOT want some old grind that's been around 100 years, no matter how good somebody tells you it runs in their strip-only car; you need a FI-specific grind. Look at the Comp "302" grind (08-302-8 I think it is). Or, for dirt cheap, get a LT1 cam off ebay or something, just make sure it's a F-body or Y-body one, NOT a B-body (Caprice) one.

Do those things right there, anf if I was the betting kind, I'd bet they'll lower your time in the ¼ by between 1 & 1½ seconds. Whereas, the list of parts you posted, will almost certainly cost you time and keep you solidly in the 17s with the Honduhs.

 

Why the heads seem so miss matched is, because they really are, the intake is off ower old bracket engine, and the heads and cam came with the new one. I was wondering if it would be worth it. It seems that it will not. Oh well, as for bolt ons I have headers and 3.73 gears on it already. Last weekend I put in a mini spool and that seemed to help traction. I was wondering if any body has had any luck with the after market torque arm and trailing arms. Also thanks for the info about which heads to look for, I also did not know that the 305 was a roller. That is good to know. BTW about the Monza I am sorry, it is not for sale. We just got it runnig this year, and hope to take it to the strip this spring.

 

well, i would suggest going to www.spohn.net about the suspension stuff. Spohn and BMR Fabrication both make extremely good suspension stuff.

my mother and father bought a 1979 monza in the fall of 1978, ordered it brand new with the 2+2 and spider packages and had them leave the spider decals off the car. i was born in 84 so i made regular trips to the dragstrip in the carseat in the backseat of that badboy. factory 305 car. he cut it up and turned it into a full framed 10 sec bracket car. we got into the thirdgens and also got into stock style suspension index racing. well the monza was extensively modified. the motor was moved back 10 inches, the drivers seat was in the back seat, it was tubbed, had ladder bars and a 9", ect. it was a cool car, and we always had it, till last summer. we don't do that style of racing anymore and my dad had no real use for it, and it was taking up space. i miss the car and wish i had it still. oh well.

 

Owers is a four cylinder 79 notchback that has been tubbed with a 12 point cage, narrowed 9 inch, ladder bars, a 327 bored to 331, th350 with a manual reverse valvebody with a trans break. We don't know what it will run but hopefuly quiker than my T/A.

 

owers= ours. just letting you know


sounds like the monza is going to be quite the car, pm me some pics if you can.

 

I P.M. you the pics, hope you like them