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Shocks/Struts/Spring Help

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Old Mar 17, 2005 | 11:36 AM
  #1  
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From: New York
Car: 83 Z28, 84 Z28
Engine: 5.0 Cross Fire, 5.0 H.O.
Transmission: 4 Speed Auto, 5 Speed Manual
Shocks/Struts/Spring Help

hey guys, im looking to replace my olllld shocks/struts/springs, but i dont want to go with any type of lowering springs - although I am all about buying performance parts. Are there any performance-stock replacement shocks/struts/springs... if not, whats a good set of stock shocks struts springs??
thanks alot

(84 Z28)
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Old Mar 18, 2005 | 12:50 PM
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From: Elgin, IL
Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
I say buy an Eibach Pro Kit and Bilstein HD shocks/struts.

The springs lower your car about an inch all around, but chances are it'll actually raise your car a tad bit if you have a lot of miles on those stock springs/shocks/struts. Great setup for the street from what I hear, just a bit pricey for me.
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 04:57 PM
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From: Fontana, ca & saint clair shores, MI
Car: 1991 camaro Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Thats the set up i have and i love it. Great handling(glued to the ground) and isnt much harsh then stock. I called and talk to steve spohn about shocks/struts/springs, told him that i wanted a good street/strip set up, and he responded with eibach/bilsteins period. Dont know of really any aftermarket springs that dont lower the car, with 115k on my stock ones didnt really lower my car much switching to the eibachs. Basicly if you can afford it there isn't really much better.

Justin
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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Car: 91 RS
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Moog makes some stock replacements. It will probably feel like a performance upgrade considering how mushy your originals feel.
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 06:42 PM
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z28cmr83's Avatar
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From: New York
Car: 83 Z28, 84 Z28
Engine: 5.0 Cross Fire, 5.0 H.O.
Transmission: 4 Speed Auto, 5 Speed Manual
Im 17 years old, i have a job and i make pretty decent money and every cent - down to the dime goes into this car, so i am never "cheap" when it comes to buying something for it. so when it comes down to eibach vs moog its not the price its the functionality. I would really like to buy the eibach's but i am afraid that it will lower it and then im going to have to replace the lower trailing arms, panhard par, etc... thats why i was looking into the moogs. But bilsteins look like there gonna be my strut/shock combo for either set of springs i decide to go with.
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 06:49 PM
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z28cmr83's Avatar
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From: New York
Car: 83 Z28, 84 Z28
Engine: 5.0 Cross Fire, 5.0 H.O.
Transmission: 4 Speed Auto, 5 Speed Manual
also what is the difference between bilstein sport and heavy duty, they are the same price???
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Old Mar 20, 2005 | 09:44 PM
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From: Fontana, ca & saint clair shores, MI
Car: 1991 camaro Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
The sport are for cars lowered a lot like people using the eibach sportlines or somewhere in the 2 inch drop area. You will want the HD if you stay stock height or drop in the 1-1 1/2 inch area like the pro-kit.

Hope that helps.

Justin
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 07:37 AM
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From: Springfield, MO
Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
I replaced the 150,XXX mile old stockers with moog 5665/5662's on mine........ they are plenty stiff.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 02:50 PM
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From: Lowell, MA
Car: 91 Formula, 95 GT
Engine: 5.7, 5.0
Transmission: T5, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42:1, ???
Originally posted by z28cmr83
I would really like to buy the eibach's but i am afraid that it will lower it and then im going to have to replace the lower trailing arms, panhard par, etc... thats why i was looking into the moogs.
Why would you have to replace the Lower Control Arms becasue you changed springs? As far as the panhard bar goes, with only a one inch drop the axle should not shift any noticeable amount. (fractions of an inch) Plenty of people on this board run the Eibach Pro Kit without an adjustable panhard. Stock LCA and PHB should be fine. That being said, I would always recommend to upgrade those parts anyways, and it is a wise investment to get an adjustable PHB, just in case. Why bother spending all that money on shocks and springs if you are going to keep all the stock, flexable, stamped steel pieces.
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Old Mar 24, 2005 | 11:28 PM
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When it comes down to it, a set of eibach pro springs sit about the same as the mid/late f-body springs sit on most cars. They will lower the car some relative to the tall early 3rd gen springs.

Lowering the car does not mean you have to replace the LCA’s and PHR.

Moogs are good stock replacements, and honestly, if it was my car (and I did intend to lower it) I’d go with moogs and cut them over the eibachs, I don’t like the progressive rate rear springs that the eibach’s come with. Actually, right now my formula has a set of eibachs on the front and cut stock springs in the back just because I don’t feel like doing all the work to swap out the fronts and couldn’t stand the eibach rears…
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Old Mar 25, 2005 | 07:24 AM
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From: Springfield, MO
Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
I think he's talking about the LCA angle, if that is the case and he is making any kind of power then his concerns are valid. Lowered car = wheel hop without the relocation brackets
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 01:45 PM
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If your car has wheel hop there is something worn out, broken or loose. Period. I repeatedly run into people that SWEAR otherwise, but every time I’ve actually looked at the car I found something clearly broken (no, not even loose or worn out, I’ve seen stock, untouched 150K mile rear suspensions with nothing in them but lowering springs and matching shocks that didn’t wheel hop)
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 07:29 PM
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From: Springfield, MO
Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
I don't doubt that a bit under normal conditions, but put some tires on it and take it to the track. If your making any power at all and are hooking a little they wheel hop like a sob....... even with new lcas', shocks and torque arm mount.
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 01:50 AM
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Funny… I own 3 f-bodies and I average between 100 and 185 dragstrip passes a year, I assure you that I’ve “taken it to the track” with decent tires.


So lets try this one more time. If you have wheel hop it is not that you lowered the car, it’s not that you don’t have Spohn’s LCA’s, BMR’s brackets or GW’s TA.

IT IS that the parts that you have on the car (stock, aftermarket, whatever) are screwed up somehow. Figure out what is wrong and fix it, or you can throw money at the thing till the problem goes away at random or you get fed up with the car and sell it. Your choice.
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 07:18 AM
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From: Springfield, MO
Car: 92 T/A VERT
Engine: LB9
Transmission: AUTO
Axle/Gears: 7.5 / 3.42's
Yea, all kinds of things to go wrong back there....... real rocket science lol.
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